What sub/s with JL 500/1?

[nate0123]

Well, if you read my last thread in this section, you saw that one of my 10w3-d6s is dead. Currently I have a dual 10" sealed box (about .75CF per side) with one working 10w3, hooked up to a JL 500/1. I'd like to keep the 500/1, but with the subs I could go one of 3 ways:

1.) Find another w3 to plug into the free hole
2.) Get 2 new matching 10s to fit the box I have, and sell the other 10w3
3.) Sell the 10w3 and the box, and buy one new 10 or 12 that will handle ~650 watts, and build/buy an enclosure for it. I'm open to any suggestions here

I guess a 4th would be get a new box with multiple drivers in it (uhm)

As far as SPL vs SQ, I'd say I'm somewhere in the middle. I am impressed by high output systems that sound really good

I am personally interested in seeing where I could go with #3, as it would mean I could reclaim a bit of my trunk space ...

Lastly, I'm not made of money, so I guess cap off the suggestions to a few hundred dollars. Thanks for your input.

 

[got wake?]

if you want a serious kick in the balls upgrade, and don't mind spending a little over $300, the A-series 12 from ED is sweet.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep2/12a.htm
otherwise 2 of the K-series would be awesome also. misterT had 2 of them in a sealed box running off 600 watts. i built a ported box for him, and it was a night and day difference. he's running them off a JBL BP 600.1, and it's sweet. the dual K 12's have more potential than the A-series, but it'll take up a lot more space.

otherwise an HC12 from resonant engineering will run you $259 directly through them, but it'll want a bit more power than you have on tap a single SE 15 would be another choice, as it needs about 600 watts, and it'll run you $199.
www.respl.com

 

[servoeyes]

Take option 3 and get an eD 10a and build the 1.0CF vented enclosure that they recommend.

That'll keep the size down, and give you some good power output. You could also get the 12a and drop it into a vented enclosure, but that's another .5CF larger. All up to you!

--EDIT--
HA! great minds and all....

 

[nate0123]

gotwake:
how big was the dual 12" ported enclosure you built for the K-series?

would 2 k-series 10s also have more potential than one A-series 12"?

what would be a good enclosure type/size for the se-15?

 

[natedizzle]

12w6

 

[nate0123]

I'd think 2 10w3s would put out better than one 12w6... have you had the chance to compare the 2?

 

[natedizzle]

i haven't had the chance to compare them side by side yet but i've heard 2 10w3's and single 12w6 and i would prefer the 12w6. just my opinion though

 

[nate0123]

12w6 in what type of enclosure?

 

[natedizzle]

it was in one of these nate. jl audio's h.o. wedge

 

[nate0123]

nate:
I've heard good things about those ho boxes. They also make one for 2 w3s. The downside to the 12w6 approach is the cost. That, and the 12w6v2 is only rated for 400 watts continuous.

gotwake:
were misterT's the K-series or the Kx-series?

 

[got wake?]

gotwake:
how big was the dual 12" ported enclosure you built for the K-series?

would 2 k-series 10s also have more potential than one A-series 12"?

what would be a good enclosure type/size for the se-15?

it was 2 boxes, so it was easier to put in, and remove. i made it so it had 3 bolts on the inside securing them together, then once it was all together you'd install the subs. all together they were 40" wide, 14" tall, and 14" deep. pretty damn big, though. 2 of the K-series 10's would be a little less than a single A12, but not by much if size is a factor, go for the single 12 in that case. as for the SE 15, it will work great in a sealed box, but for some sick low bass, throw it in a large ported box tuned nice and low for sealed, 2 cu ft would be the minimum i'd put it in. for ported, i'd go for 4 cu ft, and tuned according to your taste. they recomend 30 hz for SQL, it'll sound great, but get loud enough for SPL comps, if needed for more linear response i'd tune it lower, between 20 and 25 hz. the downside to lower tuning is that the port needs to be longer, taking up more room misterT had the K's, not the Kx's. the Kx's are good for a really cheap sub, but nothing special.

 

[Rush]

Ahh. Gotta love the 500/1 amp.

I still have mine -- though it's on the floor in the second bedroom, waiting to be installed into my MSP along with my subs.

In my old car, I ran a pair of JL 12" W3 subs in a custom ported box off it. The amount and quality of bass I got from that combination was ungodly. I didn't have a rearview mirror in my old car because the frame vibrated so badly the mirror wouldn't stay glued on.

I'm actually headin' into my stereo shop tomorrow to see what they can do for me, as far as building a smaller and more lightweight box for my 12's. I still have the custom ported from my old car, but the bastard is absolutely huge and there's no WAY it'll fit in the MSP trunk.

I'd definitely go with two JL 12" W3's. I have yet to find a sound that matches it. It'll blow you away -- and that amp will have no trouble handling those subs.

 

[nate0123]

alright, good stuff

lots to think about

recommendations so far:
2 e12Ks -- $270 + box -- 350 to 600w each
1 e12A -- $295 + box -- 300 to 1000w
1 SE15 -- $199 + box -- 350 to 600w

1 12w6v2 -- $400? + box -- 400w

2 12w3v2s -- $450? + box -- 300w each

all other factors aside, which would sound the best?

 

[servoeyes]

Hmm...that's a tuffy....I've heard the 10k (because that's what I have) and I like it better than the 10w3v2. I also think it blends a little better than the w6v2. However, I think the e12a is probably the best bet from everything I know about eD's price to quality ratio. It's been compared very favorably to the W7 quite often, but it costs soooo much less!

Personally, price from performance, I'd get the 12a...or 10a in a vented box! Of course, I ran the numbers in WINIsd, and the 12a will get you ~4dB more than the 10a in the suggested sealed enclosures. That's a conservative estimate, as well, I believe.

--EDIT--
Thought I'd post the pic of the WINISd runs for the 10k-10a-12a all in vented boxes suggested by eD. Here you go:
/members/servoeyes/10k-10a-12a.jpg

The blue is the 10k, the green is the 10a, and the orangey-red is the 12a. Remember, these are really conservative numbers, and we're probably talking getting 135-140dB+ with the 12a in a car, I would think. What I think is the most impressive thing is how ridiculously linear the volume response is for the 10k and 10a...sick...just goes to show you that they're great all around performers.

 

[got wake?]

all other factors aside, which would sound the best?

if you've got a stong set of components up front, i'd go for the SE 15 all the way economically speaking it's the best, and it'll get loudest out of all them. the only downside is that it'll take up a lot of room, but it'll be about the same as two 12's if space is a deciding factor, go for the A-12. it's designed for smaller boxes, and sound awesome

 

[1sty]

I'd think 2 10w3s would put out better than one 12w6... have you had the chance to compare the 2?

Typicly, the 12W6v1 is considered a better SQ sub and the 12W3 a better DB sub although the box design will swing it either way.

 

[1sty]

alright, good stuff

lots to think about

recommendations so far:
2 e12Ks -- $270 + box -- 350 to 600w each
1 e12A -- $295 + box -- 300 to 1000w
1 SE15 -- $199 + box -- 350 to 600w

1 12w6v2 -- $400? + box -- 400w

2 12w3v2s -- $450? + box -- 300w each

all other factors aside, which would sound the best?

24 Jensen 6x9s (thumb)

The single 12W6v2, would be my choice.

 

[nate0123]

Ah yes, I guess I should clarify. I have stock deck & speakers up front (don't hurt me!)

Does that change the recommendations?

Keep in mind, I may upgrade the front speakers eventually.

 

[servoeyes]

Ah yes, I guess I should clarify. I have stock deck & speakers up front (don't hurt me!)

Does that change the recommendations?

Keep in mind, I may upgrade the front speakers eventually.

Doesn't change my recommendation!

 

[nate0123]

I've never been in a car with a 15" woofer. Is there any more delay due to the size of the driver, any noticeable loss of clarity? Would it still be able to handle dance type music?