what is the stock turbo's limit on the ms3?

welcome to the world of modding. IF you have a boost guage, keep it under 5psi for partial throttle, anythign higher and you are risking the chance of cutting out in cold weather under heavy load.
 
If all this stuff is true (I am not saying it isn't because I don't have personal experience with this or any other modded car) then that sorta sucks. I drive under partial throttle in 6th for passing but when I feel it would be more fun, I drop to 5th or even 4th for a pass. Not always but sometimes.

If I have a CAI, Dp, Xpipe, TMIC and a tune, would this mean I have to learn how to baby and drive the car differently? By tune I mean the AP by Cobb because of the simplicity on the end user part.

Ultimately, this is all I am ever going to do to this car besides a blowoff valve upgrade. Should I have to mind my foot from that point on?
 
you could still drive partial throttle, just watch how much boost it makes under how much gas you give it. Im not sure where this car goes closed/open loop but most cars are around 50 percent throttle. Say you are in 6th at 47 percent floored, your boost is set to 18 and you are hitting 18 at 47 percent throttle, You are still running off the pre programmed settings that are inbedded into the ecu. When you cross 50 percent, or wherever this car is set, it starts relying more on sensor to adjust everything.

Put it this way, its safer to be floored at 18psi then to be at partial throttle at 18psi. Just watch your guages, and drive normal. Or you can just floor your car in 6th at 3k rpm and hope it holds together.
 
Laloosh, is this only with turned up boost and an BCD? If I plan on keeping boost stock with just I/DP/MP/Fuel Pump, do I need to be all concerned and such? I tend to drop it into sixth on the highway around 65-70, and I'll give it some gas to get around people, but won't just floor it.
 
So what if you set the boost for 17psi and then drove a little harder? Would that at least provide you a more room for driver "error"? Rather than max the car out to squeeze every drop of horsepower out of it, i would rather have a daily driver with more power that was fun to drive hard sometimes without watching a guage or checking to see if my foot is half way to the floor.

Dunno, it's just not realistic for me. I guess I should stick to mild mods (boom08)
 
Yeah, maybe that's what I am missing. I think this advice might mostly be for people upping the boost. Wasn't on my agenda...thanks for the info.
 
many poeple are reporting boost going up wiht i/dp/ic and are hitting boost cut running the stock boost selanoid. Once you mod a turbo car you just have to change the way you drive. You can still drive partial throttle, just make sure you dont over boost. Just like any other turbo car.
 
Ok...gotta throw my .02 in hear. Same motor in all three cars SPEED3/6/cx7. My buddy works at mazda and they are all D(DIRECT)I(INGECTION)S(SPARK)I(INJECTION) motors. You guys with the the speed3's obviously have the DISI that has some of the kinks worked out (Think about the KIA when it first came out, problems up the ying yang)I have a big turbo and havent blown my motor? I made 329awhp and 400tq. I believe that at 20% drivetran loss that puts me at 412bhp. How many of you guys have tried a bigger turbo? I can name 3 guys that have blown there motor from to much boost and to much timing or not enough fuel. Until you guys start putting bigger turbos on your cars you wont really no if yours will blow. Truth is most of these guys who have blown there motors (no offense) are either beating the s*** out of there car or have a s*** tune. Myself, Forrestang, ATL and JBspeed all have the gt3071 and none of us have blown are motors.
 
I don't get a fundamental here, somebody without flaming my ass, please explain to me what exactly it is we're talking about. I understand at, say, 2300 rpms in 6th, because of traffic I've slowed, if I floor it the poor engine is going to start dumping fuel in there and chugging the flywheel around in an effort to build speed. Also, that at this point the turbo begins spooling up and it is going to take me a while to get into the 'peak' rpms, and therefore the turbo is going to spike at 15-17 (usually 16.5-17 spikes then drop to 15.5 4th-6th) a lot sooner. Is the issue that the ecu doesn't realize the rpms are so low, and that the turbo spool isn't correlative to the torque building in the engine, concurrent with these two things there will be more air than fuel in the chambers, and there will be a kaboom?

What, mechanically, is the issue we are addressing with this whole, "No WOT at low rpms in higher gears, if at all," argument?

If I have an SRI, a Corksport Downpipe, and the new Mani, and find myself in traffic all of a sudden, then have an opening and I'm at 2800rpms in 6th, and floor it without a downshift, I'll blow up? I don't do that, consequently, because it's a self-fulfilling protection; downshifting and tromping it is just WAY more fun. 100% of the time if I'm in this situation I am making subtle adjustments to my application of the throttle. For example if I see the traffic in my lane slowing, I slow to accomodate, and simultaneously am checking left and right lanes. At that point I may touch the gas about 30-40% throttle to ease from 6th back into the 'fun' range rpms. That's safe, from what I gather. So, too, is downshifting to 5th, or even 4th, whatever is going to leave me around 3400-4000 rpms, and then tromping it - also safe. It's the tromp WOT at low rpms that is bad, right? I just need some real 'scientific' clarification because this discussion has been pretty vague, or rather I don't have knowledge I require to 'get' the conversation, and thus it just /seems/ vague.

Please, thank you; help!
 
^I'm with BlueMica...

I mean, in sixth gear, 60mph is turning out about 2600rpm, and I'm going to be at part throttle at those speeds to maintain 60mph. So are you saying that, if I'm going 60, then I should be in fourth and cranking out over 3k on the clock?

Pardon my newbness to this, but is basically seems like you are saying that unless I'm at WOT, then I should have the car turned off and coasting.
 
hers a simple solution to every1. Buy a boost guage if you want to acc, keep it under 5 psi, if you need more pull, downshift, problem solved
 
Last edited:
Hey Laloosh, you are using the Forge right. If so what spring are you using at what PSI and is it holding? I am thinking of purchasing this product but want to make sure it holds.
 
laloosh said:
you could still drive partial throttle, just watch how much boost it makes under how much gas you give it. Im not sure where this car goes closed/open loop but most cars are around 50 percent throttle. Say you are in 6th at 47 percent floored, your boost is set to 18 and you are hitting 18 at 47 percent throttle, You are still running off the pre programmed settings that are inbedded into the ecu. When you cross 50 percent, or wherever this car is set, it starts relying more on sensor to adjust everything.

Put it this way, its safer to be floored at 18psi then to be at partial throttle at 18psi. Just watch your guages, and drive normal. Or you can just floor your car in 6th at 3k rpm and hope it holds together.
Click to expand...

This isnt that hard to understand (bang)
 
Nobody has responded to the scientific, mechanical reason not to pull higher boosts under low rpms; the ramifications of doing so and the possible issues that could arise. Specifics are what I crave here!
 
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