What have you done to your MSP today?

[thepope540]

That's why I don't include a bung in the first place. The downpipe isn't a good place for it.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[Alamo1]

Technically the AEM requires 36 linear inches down the pipe minimum to avoid premature failure/overheating so it should be almost inline with the firewall in our application.

 

[Preferio]

Technically the AEM requires 36 linear inches down the pipe minimum to avoid premature failure/overheating so it should be almost inline with the firewall in our application.

While I know the recommended angle at which the sensor should be placed, and why, Auto Meter recommends the following concerning placement in the exhaust:

Turbocharged applications
should have sensor installed 4-5" after turbo on the down pipe.

 

[Preferio]

Who replace the entire axle? Just take it apart and regrease/install a new boot?

Hell, $50 and 30 minutes of my time is the reason I do it. The time to remove, disassemble, clean, regrease, reboot and reinstall is excessive when I can pick up an axle at the local parts store with a warranty and have done in the time it would take to disassemble and service the used one.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Who replace the entire axle? Just take it apart and regrease/install a new boot?

Boots are about $30, entire new axles are $75. Plus they had 170k miles, it was worth the extra few $s.

 

[Valk]

I just have a tough time expecting part store cheapies to be as good as stock in most cases. They certainly work i guess. I do remember paying more for the msp axle boot but going to dealer for it was prob a huge mistake.

 

[OThree.5]

So right before I spun a bearing, when I was changing oil I noticed the passenger side axle was starting to throw grease around. I think I am gonna do the boots though rather than replace. Scheduled to pick up this 626 motor on Sunday.. I guess I will reboot both axles while the motor is out of the car

 

[323]

So right before I spun a bearing, when I was changing oil I noticed the passenger side axle was starting to throw grease around. I think I am gonna do the boots though rather than replace. Scheduled to pick up this 626 motor on Sunday.. I guess I will reboot both axles while the motor is out of the car

make sure your alternator doesn't have a bunch of axle grease caked up on it either. you'll surely smell it while driving.

 

[OThree.5]

It is in REALLY early stages of failure. There is only a tiny amount of axle grease.. but its starting.

On a separate note, I finally understand 1) why the oil system sucks; 2) how to fix it; and 3) what I need now and how to plumb it

Looks like I will be relocating the filter, getting a Signature pump, and running an external oil pressure regulator. At some point I will probably add an oil cooler in there as well.. Now I just need more money. lol

 

[323]

that's good. it was too late for me. grease was everywhere and it wasnt fun cleaning that up.

regarding your oil system complaint, i already have a signature oil pump on hand for my build

 

[Clowcemc]

Any body wanna try to help me fix mine plz I've had a year nd can't get it runnin I've dumped money in nd I'm close but I'm stumped

 

[Preferio]

Any body wanna try to help me fix mine plz I've had a year nd can't get it runnin I've dumped money in nd I'm close but I'm stumped

I saw your thread, but it's not clear as to what you're asking.

In other news, purchased the GT28R CHRA from Garrett- $431.32 shipped. Ordered a few more small items- Techna Fit clutch line, eBay turbo blanket, gaskets, etc. It's getting closer and closer every day. I looked over the engine last night for a few minutes trying to determine what else I might need to get everything buttoned up and completed. I also have started thinking about cleaning up the bay and removing or relocating components. The remaining A/C components for instance- the lines and evaporator are the only thing remaining and need to be removed. Or I could reinstall the A/C as I've got all the components, but it was basically useless unless you're cruising at highway speeds and even then it wasn't that great. But that was before the Mishimoto shroud was installed, so that may assist in increasing the performance of it. I've had the car for 6 years now and, although I understand it'll never be "finished", I'd like to think that lingering problems and future issues are going to be resolved with me having put a lot of time, effort and money into it to get it where it needs to be and I want it to be. I know the transmission is going to fail and that's going to be my continuing issue and with a couple of junk transmissions in my parts collection, I think I may go with the Hydra transmission reinforcement plate next time, but we'll see. The car runs and sounds great with the exception of the turbocharger leaking oil. I'm going to keep the boost limited to 20psi, keep the AFC and get, likely, a Unichip to try. I know I'd like to move away from the AFC, but don't know whether I want to go full standalone or not. Everyone who has done it, tells me that it'll make the car a whole new vehicle. Like I said, it's never finished, I guess.

 

[323]

Any body wanna try to help me fix mine plz I've had a year nd can't get it runnin I've dumped money in nd I'm close but I'm stumped

whats the problems? without details no one can help you did you already have a thread asking for help?

well i found your thread. hopefully some of the others here can help. i don't have any input since i'm still fairly noobish.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I just have a tough time expecting part store cheapies to be as good as stock in most cases. They certainly work i guess. I do remember paying more for the msp axle boot but going to dealer for it was prob a huge mistake.

They are reman from Napa, and they are listed as the correct MSP axles so they should be alright. Hopefully better than what I had

It is in REALLY early stages of failure. There is only a tiny amount of axle grease.. but its starting.

On a separate note, I finally understand 1) why the oil system sucks; 2) how to fix it; and 3) what I need now and how to plumb it

Looks like I will be relocating the filter, getting a Signature pump, and running an external oil pressure regulator. At some point I will probably add an oil cooler in there as well.. Now I just need more money. lol

It can't hurt, but I wonder if the complete DocB setup is necessary. And the car has an oil cooler from the factory

 

[rally2003]

Thinking about selling the silver MSP and my beater truck to put toward the yellow MSP and a down payment on a house. It would be at least nice to have the yellow car down here to work on since I moved.

 

[OThree.5]

It can't hurt, but I wonder if the complete DocB setup is necessary. And the car has an oil cooler from the factory

I have been doing a lot of homework on this. I'm on about day 4 or 5 of fairly hardcore research and reading. Personally.. I agree with you. I don't believe the entire system is necessary. If you go and read the thread from years ago about the FSDE oil system you will eventually come across a guy who complained that his coated pump didn't give him extra pressure. It was stated by a few people that its because he isn't running the external pressure relief valve.

I kept reading and I found a post where Doc even said that sometimes they don't recommend coating when the tolerances are tight. It got me thinking and I am doing this:

I blocked my internal regulation system myself.. skipped the coating.. - $0.00
I got the relocation kit over the sandwich plate so I can run a larger oil filter, and also so I don't have to get under the car all the way to do oil changes - $100
I got the external PRV so I can bring my pressure up. $140
I am tapping the girdle myself instead of having it welded and likely warped (fitting - $4, M18 tap - $8.00)

So I am pretty much out the door on this for around $260..

All of this is going on the 626 (non forged) engine I'm getting this weekend and hopefully I can run like that for a while without losing another bearing. Still haven't wired in SSAFC. Need to do that..

 

[Preferio]

I have been doing a lot of homework on this. I'm on about day 4 or 5 of fairly hardcore research and reading. Personally.. I agree with you. I don't believe the entire system is necessary. If you go and read the thread from years ago about the FSDE oil system you will eventually come across a guy who complained that his coated pump didn't give him extra pressure. It was stated by a few people that its because he isn't running the external pressure relief valve.

I kept reading and I found a post where Doc even said that sometimes they don't recommend coating when the tolerances are tight. It got me thinking and I am doing this:

I blocked my internal regulation system myself.. skipped the coating.. - $0.00
I got the relocation kit over the sandwich plate so I can run a larger oil filter, and also so I don't have to get under the car all the way to do oil changes - $100
I got the external PRV so I can bring my pressure up. $140
I am tapping the girdle myself instead of having it welded and likely warped (fitting - $4, M18 tap - $8.00)

So I am pretty much out the door on this for around $260..

All of this is going on the 626 (non forged) engine I'm getting this weekend and hopefully I can run like that for a while without losing another bearing. Still haven't wired in SSAFC. Need to do that..

What was your oil pressure before the failure?

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

What was your oil pressure before the failure?

He doesn't have a pressure gauge yet.
From my research you should have over 15 psi at idle warmed up and 10 psi for every 1000 rims. 2K rpms 20 psi, 6K rpms 60psi

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[OThree.5]

What was your oil pressure before the failure?

Yeah... What Zealous said.

I will confirm what went wrong when I tear it out and apart, but I'm pretty sure it spun a bearing due to oil starvation.

I just got home from an all day long adventure to get this motor. The engine I got was a really good deal. The valve cover has been powdercoated, but it was a bad job. Gonna need to get that redone.. But the motor came with a 626 intake, a probe trans, and the coil pack conversion.. So that's cool. (I'm gonna be stealing the 5th gear from the probe trans)

There is a fair amount of gunk on the intake valves and overall the engine looks a little old. I think I'm gonna change bearings, use my MSP head, and change the headgasket. I was able to get the trans off and all the accessories off but I am too tired to do any more, so I packed it in and came home.

I'm having to work on it at the shop at work, so thats a little bit of a drawback but at least I am moving forward.


Over the course of the week, I will get it on the engine stand and start taking timing s*** off so I can get this pump on. I'll do a new waterpump, but I'm reusing my timing belt since it has like 7K miles. This is not a forged build, so I will save money wherever I can.

My biggest hurdle right now is learning how to "mic" the crankshaft and learning how to change bearings properly (this will be my first time)

 

[Preferio]

Manifold assembly is off and disassembled. My snap ring pliers aren't large enough to remove the compressor housing snap ring and the bolts are very difficult to turn in the exhaust housing, so I've sprayed them with PB to soak overnight and will bring it into work with me tomorrow and apply some heat to remove the bolts. After that, I'll box it up and ship it for exchange. I'll hopefully be driving the car by the end of next week. It sucked disassembling everything again, but glad that I'll have a new Garrett CHRA under the hood and not a used or eBay turbo. I've been thinking about getting the White Line LCA bushings. I don't really have that many chassis modifications- struts and springs, otherwise it's stock. I've figured that to be my next area of focus and the bushings are cheap and I think will yield a better handling car. Of course I'd like all the trunk and ladder braces, but those are used, vary wildly by price and will sometimes be missing pieces. We'll see I suppose. The MSP lives another day. I still still need another EMS. I really am leaning towards the Unichip.