What have you done to your MSP today?

[hornsfan10609]

My question is why the Spec stage 3 is about ~$30 cheaper than the Spec stage 2+? I'm assuming the 2+ will be more streetable and last a bit longer, the torque ratings are 9ft/lbs. difference so they are a toss up. Would like to get the slightly more stout and cheaper stage 3 but I'm leaning towards the 2+ for driveability. And of course there is still the South Bend Stage 2 Endurance clutch which is about $30 more than the 2+ but only holds 325tq to the Stage 2+'s 340tq.


I've been trying to pull the trigger on a clutch for a few days now lol. I think I will end up with the Spec 2+, the 6 puck worries me.

 

[thepope540]

I have a Southbend Stage 2 Drag rated for 450 ft-lbs in my car and I'm really happy with it so far. Its amazingly stock feeling and should be quite a bit more capable than the transmission its feeding. I have some Supra buddies that have found that Southbend likes to over-rate their clutches, but even if mine can only hold 400 ft-lbs I'll still be in good shape. I'm a southbend dealer if you decide to go that way let me know and I can get you a price.

Edit - I'm bothered by the torque specs I listed above. I just went back to double check the dealer documentation against my memory, but for whatever reason the torque ratings for the protege clutches isn't included in the dealer specs spreadsheet. Just be aware that the torque rating I listed above may be wrong.

 

[hornsfan10609]

From what I found the Stage 2 Endurance clutch was rated at 325tq and the Drag was 375 I believe. I actually ordered the Spec Stage 2+ about 5 minutes after I posted earlier, was ~$370 shipped and rated to 340tq which (fingers crossed) should be plenty. Even with the built motor I will be limited by the stock trans, T25 and stock injectors.

 

[Valk]

The spec stage 2 + i had in the car before was very streetable, but you definitely had to be careful at stops or in bad weather. i break my tires loose np with the exedy that replaced it, but the spec and solid motor mounts just immediately broke the tires lol.
had to slip it a good deal further than the full face, or you were in someones bum.

but man the shifts were so nice with the 6 puck. you could rest your foot on the clutch and shift up. the full face isnt nearly as snappy.

 

[thepope540]

From what I found the Stage 2 Endurance clutch was rated at 325tq and the Drag was 375 I believe. I actually ordered the Spec Stage 2+ about 5 minutes after I posted earlier, was ~$370 shipped and rated to 340tq which (fingers crossed) should be plenty. Even with the built motor I will be limited by the stock trans, T25 and stock injectors.

Stock injectors will limit you to about stock power - keep in mind that they are sized for a 140hp NA engine. I know guys push them into the 200+ whp range, but thats a recipe for disaster. You would need 565s or bigger to get anywhere close to 340 ft-lbs.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Fatti03msp who built the engine that is going in my car made 250/280tq at the wheels at 15psi with a T28 and stock injectors (and a slipping clutch). I will look for some 380s or 440s but I think the stock ones will be fine for a while considering I don't plan on pushing the T25 beyond 14-15lbs.

Considering the engine put down 280tq, that translates to ~320tq at the crank. I hope my 340tq rated clutch will handle that.

 

[OThree.5]

Well I am happy to say that #1289 is back up and running. I took my time, used copper gasket spray on the felpro gaskets, and actually used a torque wrench to tighten everything and I am vacuum leak free! (rockon)(drive2)(breakn)

626 seals are SO MUCH tighter than the protege seals. IDK why they ever used them to begin with. The rear motor mount feels great. The shifter doesn't sink in when I get on it, and the silicone is just soft enough to keep everything from vibrating like crazy. I'll be doing the front passenger mount the same in the near future.

I have to install these blue LEDs for the cluster, and I have new plugs that are 1 step colder (NGK.. but I forgot the number on them - they're at home)

SO now I need to finish the 3" exhaust, with a swap-able CAT/NO CAT type of situation. I need to throw a little filler into the lip of my old bumper and start finishing that.. I need to send off this flywheel to the machine shop to be surfaced/lightened, then its clutch-time.

Still need to buy Megan rear suspension components, lowering springs, SSAFC v2, and a wideband... but I'm getting closer..

LOL.. it never ends

 

[hornsfan10609]

You don't need colder plugs until you are over 15-16psi. you are better off if you stick with 6 heat range. I wonder how the LED's will look with the orange cluster, the bulbs have little covers on them but the plastic itself has a reddish tent. The light may show green.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123837608-**CORRECT**-MSP-spark-plug-list

 

[OThree.5]

You don't need colder plugs until you are over 15-16psi. you are better off if you stick with 6 heat range. I wonder how the LED's will look with the orange cluster, the bulbs have little covers on them but the plastic itself has a reddish tent. The light may show green.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123837608-**CORRECT**-MSP-spark-plug-list

Yeah.. there is that. I have an extra regular protege gauge cluster, so if I need to fabricate, I will. How does everyone else get blue gauges? I've seen it before....

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Goodies, Thanks to pope Engineering also pictured 505s cold air box for the MSP which is for sale.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Well I am happy to say that #1289 is back up and running. I took my time, used copper gasket spray on the felpro gaskets, and actually used a torque wrench to tighten everything and I am vacuum leak free! (rockon)(drive2)(breakn)

626 seals are SO MUCH tighter than the protege seals. IDK why they ever used them to begin with. The rear motor mount feels great. The shifter doesn't sink in when I get on it, and the silicone is just soft enough to keep everything from vibrating like crazy. I'll be doing the front passenger mount the same in the near future.

I have to install these blue LEDs for the cluster, and I have new plugs that are 1 step colder (NGK.. but I forgot the number on them - they're at home)

SO now I need to finish the 3" exhaust, with a swap-able CAT/NO CAT type of situation. I need to throw a little filler into the lip of my old bumper and start finishing that.. I need to send off this flywheel to the machine shop to be surfaced/lightened, then its clutch-time.

Still need to buy Megan rear suspension components, lowering springs, SSAFC v2, and a wideband... but I'm getting closer..

LOL.. it never ends

Goodies, Thanks to Pope Engineering also pictured 505s cold air box for the MSP which is for sale.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk

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[hornsfan10609]

Yeah.. there is that. I have an extra regular protege gauge cluster, so if I need to fabricate, I will. How does everyone else get blue gauges? I've seen it before....

But then you wont have the dope silver Mazdaspeed clutser... I like the orange. They chose orange because it's the least stressful on your eyes at night, it affects your night vision less than other colors. Plus the dash lights won't match, unless you are the biggest broncos fan ever I don't think that would look good.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Ok what is the deal with Clutches for these cars?!! So evidently the Spec Stage 2+ I ordered is for a REGULAR protege! WTF? How is a stage 2+ clutch rated to 340tq made for an N/A 130hp Pro?? And WHY in the **** would there be any reason to have a DIFFERENT clutch for the Mazdaspeed? How does that make any sense? The 'MSP' Spec Stage 2+ is rated to 365tq but it's over $125 more than the regular pro stage 2+. Why would Spec make separate clutches for the SAME damn car?? You can't make 300hp in a pro without forced induction in the first place..

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Ok what is the deal with Clutches for these cars?!! So evidently the Spec Stage 2+ I ordered is for a REGULAR protege! WTF? How is a stage 2+ clutch rated to 340tq made for an N/A 130hp Pro?? And WHY in the **** would there be any reason to have a DIFFERENT clutch for the Mazdaspeed? How does that make any sense? The 'MSP' Spec Stage 2+ is rated to 365tq but it's over $125 more than the regular pro stage 2+. Why would Spec make separate clutches for the SAME damn car?? You can't make 300hp in a pro without forced induction in the first place..

What's the physical difference?

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[hornsfan10609]

That's what I sent an email to Spec asking. Different part number, the SZ943H is a Stage 2+ rated to 340tq, and the 'MSP' SZ333H Stage 2+ is rated to 365tq but it's $500 compared to $370. Spec only has one description for all Stage 2+ clutches. I want to know what their reason is for making a marginally weaker clutch for far less money? That makes no sense to me.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Spec's answer:

They are interchangeable. The extra load plate just cost more to build.



Regards,

SPECTech

That doesn't really answer my question.

 

[thepope540]

I'm only guessing, but I would say it's the same disc, but the msp variant gets different strapping on the pressure plate. This adds cost and time so it has a different part number.

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[hornsfan10609]

I agree, I think that's what they mean by 'extra load plate'. I asked if the lesser clutch would be enough and he said a lot of people run them, but some Mazdaspeed guys want the heavier duty clutch... I may just give it a shot, honestly 340 should be plenty. Or I could order a Southbend for this car and put the stage 2+ in 1574. Plan now is to put the stock clutch out of 1345 in 1574, I think it will hold whatever power the car is putting down.

 

[thepope540]

I finally had the time to dig into the timing belt issue. The guide plate was left off when the engine was built which is why the belt walked off and ate the covers. The tensioner spring was collateral damage in the mess so a new belt is on, but now I have to wait for a new tensioner spring to come in.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I finally had the time to dig into the timing belt issue. The guide plate was left off when the engine was built which is why the belt walked off and ate the covers. The tensioner spring was collateral damage in the mess so a new belt is on, but now I have to wait for a new tensioner spring to come in.

I've been having misfire issues. Timing was off gates tensioner was frozen with no tension springs was toast. Ended up with the whole time and kit it was cheaper I'm just the tensioner pulley and spring.

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