What have you done to your MSP today?

[hornsfan10609]

I'm happy with that, can't tell you how many 10+psi full throttle hits this car has seen the past 5 years I have owned it. At least a dozen track days and almost 100k miles. Just got it towed home, going to park it for a bit and save up for internals/start tearing down the motor.

 

[rally2003]

Having some dumb issues with my dd. NEVER FIX OR UPGRADE A DD IF IT ISN'T BROKE!
Decided to take the exhaust off my car that I autoX since I have a 3rd style exhaust for the newer race car. Car has a huge exhaust leak and won't build boost. I have taken the exhaust manifold off and on at least 4 times now. I'm thinking the turbo went bad. It has at least 100k miles on it, but it spins fine and has very minimal play compared to my other turbo. I'm going to do one more leak test to see if I can pin point the area, but seems to just be leaking out of the housing. If all else fails I might just buy a cheap NA header and a ES ECU so I can at least drive the damn thing.

 

[Alamo1]

Looks like I'm gonna be building a forged motor for 1345, she started knocking last night. 170,520 miles, more than it's fair share of abuse.

That's where mine took a dump too. Too bad I haven't had any time to put my forged motor together. It's just sitting there quietly calling my name.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Took the BBSs off and put them away, 1345 is sitting on the stock wheels again. May put the Corksport muffler on 1574 while the other car is waiting for it's motor.

That's where mine took a dump too. Too bad I haven't had any time to put my forged motor together. It's just sitting there quietly calling my name.

Time isn't the issue for me, it's funding the project. Really not in a position to drop ~$2k into this car right now, but I'm going to get it done as soon as I can.

Having some dumb issues with my dd. NEVER FIX OR UPGRADE A DD IF IT ISN'T BROKE!
Decided to take the exhaust off my car that I autoX since I have a 3rd style exhaust for the newer race car. Car has a huge exhaust leak and won't build boost. I have taken the exhaust manifold off and on at least 4 times now. I'm thinking the turbo went bad. It has at least 100k miles on it, but it spins fine and has very minimal play compared to my other turbo. I'm going to do one more leak test to see if I can pin point the area, but seems to just be leaking out of the housing. If all else fails I might just buy a cheap NA header and a ES ECU so I can at least drive the damn thing.

Won't build boost? Have you checked the wategate? I had a bad WGA when my car wouldn't boost and it passed the 'blow into the vac line' test.

 

[rally2003]

Would a bad waste gate make it sound like a huge exhaust leak. Louder than a riced out Honda.

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[hornsfan10609]

Most likely not, since it's an IWG.

 

[BOOSTR]

Did front wheel bearing service. I waited too long 123,290 to do them. I thought it was the driver side but the passenger bearing was almost toast. The OEM Mazda bearings that I used had SKA part numbers on it. Did not install seals or plug the drain. No more annoying womp-womp!

 

[FORZWIN]

@hornsfan10609, sorry to hear about the loss. My mileage is up there as well, makes me extremely nervous with every pull. I figure if it's lived to that age it's probably earned the right to quit considering how others have faired.

Good luck with the refresh.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

@hornsfan10609, sorry to hear about the loss. My mileage is up there as well, makes me extremely nervous with every pull. I figure if it's lived to that age it's probably earned the right to quit considering how others have faired.

Good luck with the refresh.

I didn't wait for mine to blow picked up a donor motor from LKQ and was in the process of rebuilding it. Still though it was a surprise when the motor went and I wasn't done with my rebuild.

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[323]

Did front wheel bearing service. I waited too long 123,290 to do them. I thought it was the driver side but the passenger bearing was almost toast. The OEM Mazda bearings that I used had SKA part numbers on it. Did not install seals or plug the drain. No more annoying womp-womp!

awesome! glad it worked out for you too.

 

[hornsfan10609]

@hornsfan10609, sorry to hear about the loss. My mileage is up there as well, makes me extremely nervous with every pull. I figure if it's lived to that age it's probably earned the right to quit considering how others have faired.

Good luck with the refresh.

Thanks man, it's going to take a few months because I want to do it right. I'm already spending all that money I may as well not have to do it over again. I would be a LOT more upset if I didn't have a backup MSP.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Thanks man, it's going to take a few months because I want to do it right. I'm already spending all that money I may as well not have to do it over again. I would be a LOT more upset if I didn't have a backup MSP.

Horns upgrade from the aluminum bearings to tri metal. My machine shop wouldn't use aluminum for a performance boost engine. They got the bearings from ITM.

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[Gabi]

Sounds like the average healthy msp lifespan is about 170k miles.

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I'm passed that already and still running strong.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Horns upgrade from the aluminum bearings to tri metal. My machine shop wouldn't use aluminum for a performance boost engine. They got the bearings from ITM.

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Thanks for the heads up, I priced out the build and it's going to be expensive. Probably going through crossover for all the parts.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

My build was 1600 in parts and 1600 in labor

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[hornsfan10609]

I am going with the $800 'budget' rod and piston combo, getting the block machined next month (haven't priced that out yet), will assemble it myself and have it balanced afterwords. I refuse to pay someone for any work I can do myself.
Then I will need main bolts, thrust washers, rod and main bearings, head gasket and mani gaskets, oil pump, timing belt/water pump kit, clutch and possibly a lighter flywheel. May skip the head studs as I don't know they are necessary

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I am going with the $800 'budget' rod and piston combo, getting the block machined next month (haven't priced that out yet), will assemble it myself and have it balanced afterwords. I refuse to pay someone for any work I can do myself.
Then I will need main bolts, thrust washers, rod and main bearings, head gasket and mani gaskets, oil pump, timing belt/water pump kit, clutch and possibly a lighter flywheel. May skip the head studs as I don't know they are necessary

Head studs are required. They are the type of bolt that stretch...so you should reuse

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[hornsfan10609]

I know the head bolts are TTY, I have replaced them at least 3 times, lol. But the head studs aren't 'required', I could throw bolts in there and they would do the exact same thing.

 

[Gabi]

I am going with the $800 'budget' rod and piston combo, getting the block machined next month (haven't priced that out yet), will assemble it myself and have it balanced afterwords. I refuse to pay someone for any work I can do myself.
Then I will need main bolts, thrust washers, rod and main bearings, head gasket and mani gaskets, oil pump, timing belt/water pump kit, clutch and possibly a lighter flywheel. May skip the head studs as I don't know they are necessary

I spent $1500 on a built block and another $860 on a built head (as in built not rebuild head)..... currently they are both boxed and sitting in storage. My stock engine is still running strong.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I know the head bolts are TTY, I have replaced them at least 3 times, lol. But the head studs aren't 'required', I could throw bolts in there and they would do the exact same thing.

Felpro head bolts are on sale at RockAuto right now

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