What have you done to your MSP today?

[SeR_Cyclops]

Why cant you mount it at a 3 or 9?

 

[Maiello169]

yep, or you could figure out a way to use your BPV but you would need something similar the the flange on the closest pipe in this pic (forget if it's the hot or cold)

this image is for a kit that replaces the SMIC pipping for reference

Okay so it basicly wouldnt be worth getting that kit, for the fact it doesn't have all the corect piping. So where could i find the corect piping kit for a front mount intercooler? since i can always just get the intercooler separet.

 

[Maiello169]

So from what i got from the "tuborhose R&D" sight, that a side mount intercooler is better to have than a front mount..? now I'm confused lol im just trying to find a reasonable piping kit and intercooler to give my protege some more pep lol need help!

 

[Wagonbacker9]

Okay so it basicly wouldnt be worth getting that kit, for the fact it doesn't have all the corect piping. So where could i find the corect piping kit for a front mount intercooler? since i can always just get the intercooler separet.

huh? where are you getting that? It is the proper piping for the SMIC (which is what its designed for)... going FMIC is a whole different ball of wax. you can't use the same piping kit with a SMIC and a FMIC because the routes for the 2 are completely different. you pretty much need to pick a direction and go one way or the other.

So from what i got from the "tuborhose R&D" sight, that a side mount intercooler is better to have than a front mount..? now I'm confused lol im just trying to find a reasonable piping kit and intercooler to give my protege some more pep lol need help!

I would argue that is not true. for throttle response it is preferable to keep the pipe routing short, but I'd bet that if you clocked the turbo and ran your piping the right way, you could get it shorter on the FMIC than the stock SMIC routing...

I strongly recommend that you do a good couple of hours of searching around this forum and reading before posting questions. You are asking topics that have been beaten to death by guys who have owned these cars for upward of 8 years now...

 

[Maiello169]

Was just asking the questions before i go an order parts for my car. We are use to 5.0s and superchargers over here, first turbo i have had, so this is a total dif ball game for me, thats all. Figured thats what the forum was made for...?

 

[Wagonbacker9]

Was just asking the questions before i go an order parts for my car. We are use to 5.0s and superchargers over here, first turbo i have had, so this is a total dif ball game for me, thats all. Figured thats what the forum was made for...?

yes, so that people can share information. The information is here... do a little digging and you will find anything and everything you need.

Start with this thread... and any information that isn't in there... you will at least have an idea of what to start looking for.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...mods-for-a-daily-driven-MSP-quot-guide-thread

 

[TommyBDragon]

To be fair my clutch feel changd a lot when my clutch line broke and i replaced it. It went from med. firmness to almost stockish(never drive a stock clutched MSP) feeling compared to most cars

By chance did you change it out with a Corksport Braided line? I am looking to do that when I eventually replace my clutch and upgrade the flywheel and wondering if I would feel any difference.

SCMP3 - Yeah free s*** rules! Paid taxes on it but hell, I figure its nothing compared to what I got.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Why cant you mount it at a 3 or 9?

That's what the instructions say, apparently the sensor can collect moisture, 10 and 2 o'clock are the best. It started working again, there is a 1 year warranty but not on the sensor. You can buy just the sensor for about $50 from autozone so I may do that once I get a new midpipe or gut my stock cats. The sensor had some orange coloring on it, maybe from being too hot? Too much heat can kill the sensor, and somewhat clogged stock 110k mile cats will keep in extra heat in the exhaust where the sensor is, especially with the turbo.

Anyway I replaced the clutch line back to stock and after bleeding it several times it still feels softer than with the leaking braided steel line. All the pedal take-up is at the bottom of the pedal, not really to my liking. I will try to bleed it again tomorrow but the brakes feel great with the new master cylinder cap. And the new PCV grommet is a much tighter fit than the old one, should seal much better with a new Millennia S PCV in there too.

 

[hornsfan10609]

By chance did you change it out with a Corksport Braided line? I am looking to do that when I eventually replace my clutch and upgrade the flywheel and wondering if I would feel any difference.

SCMP3 - Yeah free s*** rules! Paid taxes on it but hell, I figure its nothing compared to what I got.

I bought a CS braided clutch line a couple months ago and it immediately started leaking where the fitting attaches to the line. I got a replacement line and it leaked in the exact same spot. I just changed it out for a stock one. If you do get one go with Goodridge or TechnaFit.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

they've been making that line for the better part of a decade and thats the first I've heard of a problem with one. I call user error.

 

[hornsfan10609]

On two lines in the same spot? What could I be doing wrong? The new OEM line isn't leaking...

They are made in batches, it's entirely possible I got two out of a bad batch.

 

[destineal]

Will this still seal ok? 4 instead 5 bolts.

 

[Ricktalife]

I wouldn't do it.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I wouldn't bet on it.

Didn't I sent you studs for that very thing?

 

[fishdonotbounce]

That won't seal. If you can classify the worst stud to leave out, that would be the worst one.

 

[destineal]

I wouldn't bet on it.

Didn't I sent you studs for that very thing?

Yea but the original stud broke, so I had this great idea to drill a hole in it, and put a bolt extractor in it.
Well I was lucky enough to have the tip break off in the bolt. I called a machine shop and they had this great idea.... get a new turbo. That seems retarded to me so I need to find somene willing to get this stud/extractor out.

 

[fatti03msp]

wow what a dick machine shop, call another one.

you might be able to drill it out and put a helicoil, think thats what it was called. I might have to do that for one of the bolts in my head.

 

[destineal]

I triede drilling it out wth titanium and cobalt bolts but the extractor material is too hard. I'm wondering if I need a impact driver\hammer drill. This I cutting into my 505 intake manifold money.

 

[mildsalsa]

To get the little oil line out of the top of the turbo I used some vice grips tighten them as tight as I could and turned. I've done it that way twice.

Im gonna have to do this in the morning thanks i have to get more vice grips thou the only ones i have are huge and wont even get close to the nut.... need this damn thing out so i can put the new one in lol...

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I triede drilling it out wth titanium and cobalt bolts but the extractor material is too hard. I'm wondering if I need a impact driver\hammer drill. This I cutting into my 505 intake manifold money.

I would say get that extractor out, heat up the external with an oxy torch, and try another extractor.