What have you done to your MSP today?

Well been a few days but I replaced brakes and rotors all around. PO warped the old ones pretty bad. Finished my retrofit with the headlights. PlastiDipped my wheels they looked pretty rough, may redo them wanting to get some bronze metalizer and cover them with that. Fixed all the bulls*** wiring for gauges and installed a better head unit. Next I'll be installing a new SRI, getting a new cold pipe mocked up so I can use my forge BPV and not the ebay VTA BOV on there now... Install my AWR rear mount and delete the VTCS/VICS system.. oh an I have all new plugs, wires and coils otw!
 
I started up my MSP today for the first time since swapping in the GT28RS. She started well enough, and she idles very nicely holding about -21 vacuum. I took her for 2 shakedown runs. She won't hold boost in first and only gets 4psi in the other gears. I don't know if this has anything to do with my slipping clutch or if one or more of the intake couplings is giving up under boost. The rear coolant line banjo bolt is leaking on the turbo so I have to take some of it apart again and replace the washers on that banjo fitting. It's a PITA to get to while the turbo is mounted because the wga arm is in the way. My BOV won't sound between shifts, either. Not sure what's going on there.

Truth be told - when I think of all the troubleshooting and tuning matters I'll have to address with the bigger turbo, I'm tempted to put my stock turbo back on and sell the GT28rs. I think it will depend on my job situation in the coming weeks. If I get one of the jobs I'm seeking, I'll probably buy a new car fr a daily driver and work on my MSP in the side. Otherwise, I'll probably just swap my stock turbo back in and sell the GT28rs. I have no idea what I'm going to do.
 
Matrix said:
I started up my MSP today for the first time since swapping in the GT28RS. She started well enough, and she idles very nicely holding about -21 vacuum. I took her for 2 shakedown runs. She won't hold boost in first and only gets 4psi in the other gears. I don't know if this has anything to do with my slipping clutch or if one or more of the intake couplings is giving up under boost. The rear coolant line banjo bolt is leaking on the turbo so I have to take some of it apart again and replace the washers on that banjo fitting. It's a PITA to get to while the turbo is mounted because the wga arm is in the way. My BOV won't sound between shifts, either. Not sure what's going on there.

Truth be told - when I think of all the troubleshooting and tuning matters I'll have to address with the bigger turbo, I'm tempted to put my stock turbo back on and sell the GT28rs. I think it will depend on my job situation in the coming weeks. If I get one of the jobs I'm seeking, I'll probably buy a new car fr a daily driver and work on my MSP in the side. Otherwise, I'll probably just swap my stock turbo back in and sell the GT28rs. I have no idea what I'm going to do.
Click to expand...

SCREW IT. Call me bipolar but I came this far, I'm leaving the GT28RS in place and I'm going to get this all straightened out.
 
basically redid all my vac lines today after noticing my boost gauge line was totally rotted away. might explain why the car was running like such poo for a while.. just been so busy with work/life/other stuff never really get under there like i used to. turbo has ticks in all directions. belts are squeeling lol.

so i pay the car off in november, and ill have to put like 2k into it immediately. new dampers, new clutch, probably the waterpump/timing belt ect. but worried about my tranny. she has made a lot of noise shifting down into second for a long time now. wondering if its more worthwhile to buy a tranny and rebuild it or try to rebuild this one with all the downtime.
i dont race my car or launch it so the lsd is prob still good but definitely needs attention. the clutch is gonna be done next year so thinking ahead is all.

also gonna be looking for a Steedspeed manifold. i had plans to do the big build but i cant be bothered now. car is fun at near stock so ill replace whats broken and enjoy it til it rusts away.
 
Put on clunk fix this past weekend, tweaked with my exhaust to get the rattle taken care of. And most important started dealing with the rust spots that are popping up all over rear quarters.
 
Stock Block


To Being Powered By Hopes And Dreams


Finally Dropping In A Fully Built Block & Welded LSD Trans. K1 Long Rods, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 Comp. Spec Stage2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, 5 Angle Valve Job Head Rebuilt W/ OEM Valves & Seals


FIRED UP ON FIRST TRY! (cabpatch)


This was my project all day saturday. Went to Outlawstar89's house along with 2 other buddies took us about 12 hours to do the swap. Damn rear motor mount was a PITA to bolt back up and lining everything up with a new AWR trans mount also was not fun and killed about 3 hours for us just lining everything up.
 
does it really matter what brand coil packs you use? ive been using the autozone ones and they don't seem to last that long. my hungry ass car loves nom noming on some coil packs.

drove 400 miles to pick this up. clocked in 34mpg on the msp

ek-L.jpg
 
Ah bugger. the Split second afc thread doesnt seem to have the install instructions anymore... I made a harness to allow me to pull the thing out and i fixed the vac line on it, but now i cant find my printed install sheet or can i remember the colors lol...

does someone have the pdf or other format of the instructions?
 
Valk said:
Ah bugger. the Split second afc thread doesnt seem to have the install instructions anymore... I made a harness to allow me to pull the thing out and i fixed the vac line on it, but now i cant find my printed install sheet or can i remember the colors lol...

does someone have the pdf or other format of the instructions?
Click to expand...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-Map-Library&p=6200932&viewfull=1#post6200932
323 said:
does it really matter what brand coil packs you use? ive been using the autozone ones and they don't seem to last that long. my hungry ass car loves nom noming on some coil packs.

drove 400 miles to pick this up. clocked in 34mpg on the msp

ek-L.jpg
Click to expand...


I've had them for a few years, no issues. It's always luck of the draw with aftermarket parts.
 
323 said:
does it really matter what brand coil packs you use? ive been using the autozone ones and they don't seem to last that long. my hungry ass car loves nom noming on some coil packs.
Click to expand...

I've used BWD brand from O'Reilly's when I switched mine and haven't had any problems
 
I'd say it matters which coil packs you go with. My car still has the original ones from when the car was made. So far with over 104K miles I have never had an issue. So when I do I will be putting on some OEM ones unless they are priced like the Calloway exhaust manifold, way overpriced.
 
Front 02 senor change and now wondering how long I've had crazy afr's. Running at idle it is fine around 14.8-15, under wot boost 10-12, and cruising 16-17 wth? I just installed the so I really don't know how long this has been going on for.
 
I say its luck of the draw on coil packs. the OEM ones went around 45-50k ish... napa went about 5k later, got a replacement it went, got another it went(3 sets total in less then 20k).. so gave up and have well over 60k on my autozone coil packs...
 
You can pick up key stock at home improvement and auto parts stores and just cut down the rod to the length you need.
 
Tried overfilling the tires and leaving them off the ground for 24 hours. Still have some tire noise....blah.

Hopefully it will go away eventually. Only really gets annoying at low speeds.
 
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