What have you done to your MSP today?

I liked it, just figured a heavier flywheel would B easier :) (doesnt drop the revs on shifts near as much) - plus cant say it had a fair chance, since apparently it was warped when i bought the car (never did drive "right") - just assumed it was me.


otmsp said:
so you didnt like the light flywheel? was it too rad for or what?
 
Jackelope said:
I liked it, just figured a heavier flywheel would B easier :) (doesnt drop the revs on shifts near as much) - plus cant say it had a fair chance, since apparently it was warped when i bought the car (never did drive "right") - just assumed it was me.
ohh ok ,I just wanted some opinions on this matter. I`ve got a couple of friend telling me to get that other lightend flywhell but dont really think is woth it going to a 16lbs or what not....so I`m getting the 7,5lbs.thanx jack!
 
installed a protege 5 steering wheel@!!!

best mod ever...no more peeling!
looks clean being black

oh man, feels like i'm driving a totally different car
 
Alejo_NIN said:
installed a protege 5 steering wheel@!!!

best mod ever...no more peeling!
looks clean being black

oh man, feels like i'm driving a totally different car
glad you like it man!
 
jeg0024 said:
Any tips on end link nut removal? Im stuck...
go to SEARS and buy an electric impact gun that they sell
get yourself a 6-face 14mm socket, it can't be the 12 face,. you'll **** up the nut. it has to be 6 face 14mm.
use PB blaster or wd40 and spray it on the nut, let it do its magic for 5 minutes, then use the impact gun....it'll come out nice and smooth

i wish i had thought about this before ******* up my endlinks, but oh well

good luck

PS: sears has a 30 day return policy, no quetsions asked for a full refund

try to use it only to remove the bolts and then pack it back niceley into the box and return, if you cna keep it, u'll find out it is the best tool and you will want to use it for every nut in your car.

is pricey tho, at $170, i couldn't afford to keep it
 
Alejo_NIN said:
go to SEARS and buy an electric impact gun that they sell
get yourself a 6-face 14mm socket, it can't be the 12 face,. you'll **** up the nut. it has to be 6 face 14mm.
use PB blaster or wd40 and spray it on the nut, let it do its magic for 5 minutes, then use the impact gun....it'll come out nice and smooth

i wish i had thought about this before ******* up my endlinks, but oh well

good luck

PS: sears has a 30 day return policy, no quetsions asked for a full refund

try to use it only to remove the bolts and then pack it back niceley into the box and return, if you cna keep it, u'll find out it is the best tool and you will want to use it for every nut in your car.

is pricey tho, at $170, i couldn't afford to keep it

see thats the thing...I have an air compressor and an air gun, but no hose to hook it up lol. If so it would be so easy to just pop that thing right off, I borrowed it from my neighbor but he lost the hose, what a dumb ass. Oh, btw...car is up on stands and have no way to go anywhere right now lol.
 
jeg0024 said:
see thats the thing...I have an air compressor and an air gun, but no hose to hook it up lol. If so it would be so easy to just pop that thing right off, I borrowed it from my neighbor but he lost the hose, what a dumb ass. Oh, btw...car is up on stands and have no way to go anywhere right now lol.
just buy a new hose then, they are cheaper and you will want to keep it anyways, have your neighbor go in halves since he lost the hose ((?))

with my impact it took all of a second to knock them off, and use PB blaster as Alejo said.
 
you can also try to use a open end wrench that's 14 mm, but use the side that is CLOSED, it sucks tho coz most likely it is a 12point wrench, and us ea #8 allen key...people have done it like this and it had worked

watch out for those busted knuckled and prolly a busted nut which after than you might end up having removed with a dremel

stop being lazy and go to the auto parts

put the tires bakc in the car!!!

gosh
 
Velocifero said:
just buy a new hose then, they are cheaper and you will want to keep it anyways, have your neighbor go in halves since he lost the hose ((?))

with my impact it took all of a second to knock them off, and use PB blaster as Alejo said.

yeah, thing is...cant drive anywhere. Do you think the hose off my neighbors little electric compressor will work? its a little ass hose and says not to go over 90 psi..thing is the tank already has 140 in it lol.
 
Alejo_NIN said:
you can also try to use a open end wrench that's 14 mm, but use the side that is CLOSED, it sucks tho coz most likely it is a 12point wrench, and us ea #8 allen key...people have done it like this and it had worked

watch out for those busted knuckled and prolly a busted nut which after than you might end up having removed with a dremel

stop being lazy and go to the auto parts

put the tires bakc in the car!!!

gosh

yeah, well my strut is hanging out now and i cant get it back in by myself with the end link still attched. I just need a damn air hose! stupid ass neighbor
 
oh sucks dude, u shouldn;t had taken the strut off before removing the endlink
i feel your pain...
if you rmeoved the strut by removing the nut in the middle, hehe...that's tough, coz even if you get the endlik off, you'll have a hell of a trouble trying to slide the endlink from the strut.

might as well remove the endlik on both, the strut and swaybar
 
Alejo_NIN said:
oh sucks dude, u shouldn;t had taken the strut off before removing the endlink
i feel your pain...
if you rmeoved the strut by removing the nut in the middle, hehe...that's tough, coz even if you get the endlik off, you'll have a hell of a trouble trying to slide the endlink from the strut.

might as well remove the endlik on both, the strut and swaybar

no, I just took the pins out holding it to the brake and the top strut nuts(3) to see if I could get to the top of the strut and just work on the springs without taking the end link off, because I knew you could do that in the fronts, but the rears are too tall i guess.
 
you can do it on the rears, at least on the p5 I know you can. my car was lowered without a single endlink bolt coming off.. it was a pain but those endlink bolts were rusted on.
 
Kansei said:
you can do it on the rears, at least on the p5 I know you can. my car was lowered without a single endlink bolt coming off.. it was a pain but those endlink bolts were rusted on.

Well I dopped the strut down and the end link is now resting on the sway bar and still need about 5 inches of clearance to get the strut out.
 
not good to remove it that way, specially with stock endlinks
they're s***
i broke one in my car, and everyone once in a while it comes off and then let the clunking beging!
so annoying
 
Alejo_NIN said:
not good to remove it that way, specially with stock endlinks
they're s***
i broke one in my car, and everyone once in a while it comes off and then let the clunking beging!
so annoying

I know, but I was just trying to see if I could lean the strut out to get to the top to strut working on the spring. I still dont know if im ever gonna get it off:( I posted a pic in my thread of what it looks like right now. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2965413#post2965413
 
Installed K-Sport Coilovers today.....

and im beat! Took a few trys adjusting the camber up front.....just enough to get by till i get a Toe/Alignment done this saturday. I just need to lower it all the way around a little more, and soften up the ride a bit.....cause its pretty much set to "hard", and damn is it stiff and bumpy on these terrible texas roads.
 

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