What have you done to your MSP today?

justanothermp5 said:
dont quote me on the exact degree's, but i do know 100% it have to be vertical
Click to expand...

Idk about the 15 degrees stuff but the position is correct what you are talking about. Talked to sam about tat aswell hahah. Which I'm going to move tht part and lock it. Which that won't be hard.
 
I put my self ported, vtcsless intake manifold on last night, I also did the coolant bypass thing on the throttle body. I threw a check engine light because I got in a hurry, broke a vacuum t, and just left the bpv bypassed, well of course, when I hit boost, the b pv opened, and the chreck engine light came on, so I fixed that pretty quickly. But even with the cell on, the car runs much better.

Thad.
 
Getting a hesitation/stutter when going anywhere past approximately 4-5 psi. The car also stumbles at idle sometimes and goes all the way lean on the wideband. Tuning is done via FM o2 voltage clamp and begi fpr. Stock mazdaspeed setup with Jen's altered customs (ebay) fmic. Everything has worked perfectly fine for the last 17000 miles up until now. Any idea? I'll answer any questions I can to help figure out what the hell it is.
 
fishdonotbounce said:
Getting a hesitation/stutter when going anywhere past approximately 4-5 psi. The car also stumbles at idle sometimes and goes all the way lean on the wideband. Tuning is done via FM o2 voltage clamp and begi fpr. Stock mazdaspeed setup with Jen's altered customs (ebay) fmic. Everything has worked perfectly fine for the last 17000 miles up until now. Any idea? I'll answer any questions I can to help figure out what the hell it is.
Click to expand...

boost leak
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
wonder if the begi adjustment let loose? ECU is geeking out? where is your MAF?
Click to expand...

I just checked the begi. It's tight. MAF is right before the throttle body (about 12" from it maybe more) after the BOV and everything. It hasn't affected anything in the last 17k miles so why would it now?

Shadow102 said:
boost leak
Click to expand...

I've checked every single coupler and every single one is on tight. All my vacuum lines are good too.

Any more ideas? I'm about to go to autozone and pick up some new coilpacks and wires as well as some new plugs.
 
Autozone has the cheapest coil packs (around 26 bucks) but two different times when I bought them they were used coils in the box. It may have just been the store I chose (I went to two different stores) but check them before you leave the store. I had no problem returning them but it was a big waste of time.
 
Spiced MSP said:
car is still at the body shop, roof should be done tomorrow and the car itself should be ready for paint by the middle of the week and back in my hands after that. I can't wait, still gotta put the AEM UEGO in and fine tune my SSAFC to my mods. After that, a few dyno pulls and then Friday Night Test N Tune at the local dragstrip.

Side Note: may be getting a built motor from a local friend that hasn't put it in his p5 yet and is about to sell his p5 and get an evo 8. Just a heads up, his MSP turbo setup may be up for sale on here pretty soon if it is not sold locally. If things go as planned and I get the block, look out, GT3071R, bigger injectors, Haltech sprint 500 and a Mfactory diff will be coming soon after that.
Click to expand...

Damn, I want to see your car some time.
 
Just got back from autozone. Brand new plugs, coils, and wires. I'm gonna let the car cool off and then try only replacing the plugs. If that doesn't work, the coils and wires will follow. If that doesn't fix it, I'll revert to cussing and swearing at the car. Alex (scratchnsniff) seems to be having the same problem and he's also gonna be troubleshooting it. After driving it to autozone and back, I can say the car stumbles no matter what rpm range and regardless of boost or not. It definitely does the muffled machine gun sound under more than 4 psi of boost but I haven't gone into boost since I found that out. Trying to avoid any bad damage that can be caused by this problem that is probably cause by something little (I hope).
 
I had a similar problem and it was incorrect bosch plugs installed by the previous owner.
On a side note I paid for an AWR side mount so I can't wait to replace my trashed stocker whenever it gets here.
 
machine shop called, told us the head was salvageable! so new head gaskets, spark plugs, another fresh coolant fill/ and oil!
 
Nice man that is good. At least you dont have to get a new head! What was the deal? did it over heat and cause the head to warp?
 
gaskets failed i suppose, no warping of the head and cylinders walls are fine... very few light scratches on 2,3 but mechanic told me it might lightly smoke due to it but you can run your finger nail over the scratches and not feel em, ill be getting more details 2maro.. they decided to call me.. on there way out of the shop.
 
Good to hear salsa :D

Just installed the new plugs and no more stumbling. The underlying problem is still there though. It idles like s***. I'm gonna try to track down the problem over the next couple weeks or I'll be going through new plugs every few thousand miles. Fuel injector o-rings and seals are next on the agenda. I might end up getting a new Canadian EGR valve as well. Gonna look into ways of detecting a boost leak (carb cleaner, boost leak tester blah blah blah). Trying to get everything figured out before winter.
 
fishdonotbounce said:
I just checked the begi. It's tight. MAF is right before the throttle body (about 12" from it maybe more) after the BOV and everything. It hasn't affected anything in the last 17k miles so why would it now?



I've checked every single coupler and every single one is on tight. All my vacuum lines are good too.

Any more ideas? I'm about to go to autozone and pick up some new coilpacks and wires as well as some new plugs.
Click to expand...
because I was suspecting:
Shadow102 said:
boost leak
Click to expand...

but if all the couplers past the MAF are tight, then that should be it... at least its not where I'd go first.
 
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