What have you done to your MSP today?

i know, he would of pulled even somewhere in 4th and passed me atleast entering 5th or right before 5th. So it's not like I left him hardcore. I also have a few weight reduction's though.
 
I relocated my MAF two nights ago. It was sad to see the 400 dollar su pipe get cut up. Especially since it still wants to stall. Not as often, but when it does, it bangs off the bottom and comes back up, then bangs off the bottom and so on til I hold the throttle steady at 1500rpm. I'm only reading about 15-16 lbs of vac at idle. Wonder if I have a vacuum leak.
Question: I have the Greddy Type S bov and have a dedicated line run from the brake boost line to it. There is another little vac fitting on the head of the bov and when the car is running it is sucking air. Do I need to cap this? or run another vac line to it?

the bottom line on those is to apply pressure under the valve seat so it closes faster (more efficiently). If you leave it unconnected, it will operate slower and more quiet but its optional to have plumbed into a pressure line. 15 vac at idle is a definate leak. You should have around 20-23 without ac on.

edit: the lower valve is above the piston so technically you dont have to cap it at all, itll just let the air out like the main outlet. So, no you dont have to cap it, but you still have a bad leak.
 
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Thanks guys!!! I am stopping at the store tonight and getting a cap. I'll post up whether it fixes it or not.
 
Thanks guys!!! I am stopping at the store tonight and getting a cap. I'll post up whether it fixes it or not.

I dont think the cap will help that, from the diagram i saw, its left off quite often, and that lower chamber is sealed from the piston, its just there to push the seat up faster.

http://www.stealth316.com/images/greddysopensm.jpg

thats the diagram, and its consistant with other installs i read about. that lower nipple shouldnt be sucking in air at all. unless you have a faulty valve?
 
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Hmmm. Faulty valve? That would suck really bad. Get it? "suck"? bad joke. trying to lighten my mood. Any way to fix a faulty valve?
 
Got this today, I just need to get the broken stud out.

8f42800b.jpg
 
hey guys, would anything other than a bad fuel pressure regulator cause really low fuel pressure?? I tried to adjust the Aeromotive fpr, but it doesn't work, the fuel pressure still stays at 18psi... so I am assuming it is shot?. I just want to see if I can check anything else before buying a new one.. thanks.. oh and there are no fuel leaks that I have seen anywhere
 
Is it torque steer or a busted mm if car pulls to the left when going into boost
 
ya I was going to say, the torque steer can cause that big time.. but I would say is mainly noticeable when your in first or 2nd.. if it is really only in those 2 gears then I would look for something else to be the cause as well..

but anyone have any input for the fpr question I posted above?, so close to getting my brother's msp driving well
 
sorry, not sure if I was clear, but the stock fuel system was replaced completely with an aftermarket fuel rail, Stainless steal lines, and the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and gauge.... also I was thinking about the pump, but if the pump was bad, would there even be any fuel pressure to drive the car?.. there is a whining that has been bugging me for a while that is somewhere near the fuel pump area of the car.. but I wasn't sure what it was, do any aftermarket fuel pumps make noise? or is that a symptom for a bad pump?
 
sorry, not sure if I was clear, but the stock fuel system was replaced completely with an aftermarket fuel rail, Stainless steal lines, and the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and gauge.... also I was thinking about the pump, but if the pump was bad, would there even be any fuel pressure to drive the car?.. there is a whining that has been bugging me for a while that is somewhere near the fuel pump area of the car.. but I wasn't sure what it was, do any aftermarket fuel pumps make noise? or is that a symptom for a bad pump?

aftermarket ones can, but in the tank you usually dont hear it with the car on. inline booster pumps make a humming you can hear but they are usually outside the tank. whining from a pump is usually bad. pump failure isnt always a total failure, it can most definately supply some pressure and be bad. If its not supplying its volume or pressure that its supposed to, its either bad or theres a severe voltage drop (since its electric).

It could be a few things really. Pump, regulator, or even a clogged system (lines, fuel filter, etc)
 
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aftermarket ones can, but in the tank you usually dont hear it with the car on. inline booster pumps make a humming you can hear but they are usually outside the tank. whining from a pump is usually bad. pump failure isnt always a total failure, it can most definately supply some pressure and be bad. If its not supplying its volume or pressure that its supposed to, its either bad or theres a severe voltage drop (since its electric).

It could be a few things really. Pump, regulator, or even a clogged system (lines, fuel filter, etc)

ooh, ya I am not 100% sure about some of the stuff the car came with when we got it as far as mods go, but I think the reason I couldn't pinpoint what it was(the noise) is because it was really outside the car kinda under it near the fuel tank.. and it was more of a humming/droning kinda sound.. and the car was working great before, I guess I can check the fuel filter or something like that, since that hasn't been changed in years and the car was sitting for, I think 3years or so before my dad bought it.. thanks a lot for the help.. so I don't take up any more space, could you take a quick look at this thread, and just see if I am on the right track.. it would be a HUGE help.. I would like to try to figure this out before taking it to a mechanic guy, just to find out that it is what I thought it was, and spend an extra $300 or something just for the labor that I could have done easily..
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5387633#post5387633
 

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