What have you done to your MS3 today?

Am I the only MS3 own that actively uses M247? I really hate MSF...
 
Am I the only MS3 own that actively uses M247? I really hate MSF...

There are others but it seems the MS3 crowd has gone a bit quiet....That said, I read and really appreciate your frequent updates and I'm sure others do as well!

If you'd like to see more activity from MS3 owners, may I suggest posting new threads about MS3 issues, maintenance and upgrades that are important to you...New threads about MS3 topics current owners can relate to might help attract and stimulate more conversation.

In any case, thanks for keeping us updated on your MS3, I'm looking forward to the next update!

Ps...If you have any suggestions etc regarding increasing activity, please send me a PM, thanks again!
 
My 2007 MS3 (122K miles) has lost approximately 30% compression in cylinders 2 and 3. The Service Manager at the Mazda store told me that coolant jackets around those two cylinders don't provide as much cooling as the ones around cylinders 1 and 4. It still runs great, but uses a quart of oil every 300-500 miles. It doesn't even blow smoke from the exhaust.

Since I can't find any shops that will do pistons and rings here in Austin, I am going to purchase a long block in the near future. I have found 2 suppliers, Edge Automotive and SpeedPerformance. Both sell long blocks for $3726 + $1900 core charge (refunded after core is returned). Has anyone dealt with either one of these suppliers and if so, were you happy with the engine.

Also, I have a rattle coming from the back of my car and I believe its the Koni Adjustable shocks that I added a couple of years ago. When I had some maintenance done at one of the performance shops in San Antonio they said that the shocks had been mounted with no load on them and they remounted them with the car under load. That stopped the rattle for a few months, but it has come back. I am thinking I might just replace them with some Bilsteins. Any suggestions on this issue?

I have owned a lot of Mazdas:
1972 RX3 Wagon
1974 RX3 Wagon
1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup
1979 RX7
1981 GLC Hatchback
1984 RX7
1987 323 Wagon
1987 626 GT Turbo
1991 626 5 door Hatchback (in Europe)
1992 MX6 Turbo
2002 Protege5
2007 MS3
2015 CX5
My former wives and my children drove 5 or 6 other Mazdas that I purchased for them. The only cars I have owned besides Mazdas include 1956 Chevrolet 210, 1961 Alfa Berlinetta Sprint, 1959 MGA, 1961 Austin Healy 3000, 1968 VW Beetle, 1963 Chevrolet Impala Convertible, 1964 Sunbeam Alpine, 1967 Porsche 912, 1971 Porsche 911T. 1994 Acura Integra GSR.

Any help you guys can give on the replacement motors and the shock isse will be much appreciated.

Mac in Austin
 
There are a few different rattle areas to examine.

1. Spare tire hold down
2. Emergency Jack in the Left Cubby
3. The Upper Shock / Metal/Rubber to body mount
4. The lower shock mounting bolt Torque
5. The Rear Sway bar bushings and end links.
6. Rear Wing/Spoiler
7. Rear Hatch Latch assembly
 
MS3 Rattle in Rear Section

There are a few different rattle areas to examine.

1. Spare tire hold down
2. Emergency Jack in the Left Cubby
3. The Upper Shock / Metal/Rubber to body mount
4. The lower shock mounting bolt Torque
5. The Rear Sway bar bushings and end links.
6. Rear Wing/Spoiler
7. Rear Hatch Latch assembly

Thanks. I will check these items.
 
Thanks. I will check these items.

Installed some CONTI DWS Extreme Contact tires in the stock 215/45/18 size. "Upgraded" from some 66% worn MILESTAR 225/40 tires...

The increase in sidewall height feels good to my backbone, and steering feels slightly lighter with the narrower tread.

I have always been a Bridgestone/Michelin user, and this is my first set of the CONTINENTALS, so we shall see...
 
I have a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 and recently I managed to knock my front mounted intercooler completely off the front of my MS3. It damaged the FMIC considerably, cracked the radiator, broke the core support and damaged the condenser. Since I have had issues with scraping and knocking the both bottom turbo pipes off, I am going back to a top mounted stock intercooler. I found an intercooler, but I need the top cover pieces for that intercooler. I was wondering if any of you guys who have gone to an FMIC have those pieces laying around in your shop and would consider parting with them.

Mac
512-422-0197
 
Replaced the PCV today... It literally took me 15 minutes to do... There is absolutely no reason to remove the intake manifold to do it. I put it in the air (at the shop, on a lift), removed the lower engine cover, repositioned the coolant hose out of the way, put my pry bar in there against the retaining collar, gave it a quick tap and it was off. Removed the PCV hose from the intake side and removed it with the PCV valve. I was about to remove the intake manifold to do it...
 
Replaced the PCV today... It literally took me 15 minutes to do... There is absolutely no reason to remove the intake manifold to do it. I put it in the air (at the shop, on a lift), removed the lower engine cover, repositioned the coolant hose out of the way, put my pry bar in there against the retaining collar, gave it a quick tap and it was off. Removed the PCV hose from the intake side and removed it with the PCV valve. I was about to remove the intake manifold to do it...

This was on your Speed3? That is very good news.

I'm at 135,000 miles. What were your symptoms?

I'm having something like the notorious "smoking at idle" issue, but it is totally intermittent and random. I can go days with no problem, then it returns at idle, only to disappear for days. Blown turbo seals would not produce intermittent random symptoms, I would think. I'm wondering if the PCV valve may be sticking. Wouldn't hurt to install a new valve if its that easy.
 
I'd say it's more likely your turbo, but a PCV is an often overlooked maintenance item and now that o know it can be done relatively easy without intake removal, I'd suggest replacement if you have no history of service.

I'm personally leaking oil on the hot side of my turbo. Keeping putting it off. Purchased the car knowing this, but I'm going through a quart every 600-700 miles. Need to go a compression test, too. Maybe stuck OCRs are also responsible for some oil loss. Give me a reason to forge the bottom end.

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Had a deal worked out for a JBR PMM and TMM. Spent a couple of minutes searching and found the guy had listed them previously elsewhere earlier this year and were marked as sold. No signage in his pictures. Asked for updated pics with signage, he agreed, then disappeared along with all of his for sale posts. People suck man. Someone would have, if not already, fallen for it.

So, the hunt continues for two mounts.

The local Cobb tip/sri and Forge BPV sold locally before I could get it.

Found a JBR rear sway bar that I will hopefully pick up.

I'd love to find this stuff local...
 
I'd say it's more likely your turbo, but a PCV is an often overlooked maintenance item and now that o know it can be done relatively easy without intake removal, I'd suggest replacement if you have no history of service.

I'm personally leaking oil on the hot side of my turbo. Keeping putting it off. Purchased the car knowing this, but I'm going through a quart every 600-700 miles. Need to go a compression test, too. Maybe stuck OCRs are also responsible for some oil loss. Give me a reason to forge the bottom end.

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Thanks. Changed oil yesterday. While under the car I saw what you are talking about with the PCV location, but didn't have a new PCV valve at the time. I appreciate the tip.

I use no oil between changes, but do get that occasional "smoke at idle." Compression is still above 180 psi on all cylinders at 135,000 miles. It is time for plugs. I always check compression when pulling them.
 
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I'd say turbo if you're smoking at idle. Do you know if you have the updated valve cover?
 
I'm considering Tein springs in lieu of coilovers- opinions?

EDIT: Never mind. I don't want to do that..
 
Installed some CONTI DWS Extreme Contact tires in the stock 215/45/18 size. "Upgraded" from some 66% worn MILESTAR 225/40 tires...

The increase in sidewall height feels good to my backbone, and steering feels slightly lighter with the narrower tread.

I have always been a Bridgestone/Michelin user, and this is my first set of the CONTINENTALS, so we shall see...
I put DWS 225/45s on September, 2012 at 30,000, now a bit past 50,000. Still great grip. The "S" is finally gone. I suspect they'll last another 30,000. A sidewall height of +6mm doesn't seem like it's noticeable.
 
Not that anyone is going to reply before I end up purchasing one of them, but JBR RSB versus Cobb RSB- Go!
 
Apparently everyone hates JBR parts... At least those MS3/6 owners I know. But, I'm buying it anyway.
 
I thought it was called a .125 because it uses 1/8" wall tubing. And the .250 was 1/4" wall tubing.

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