What have you done to your Miata today?

What's going on with your wheels?

My sway bar and end links are out for delivery today. Going to suffer in the 100+ degree garage to get them installed.
 
Got my old 16x7" 5Zigens repaired and refinished. Massive curb rash.
 
Sold my Spinwerkes.

Ordered a 949Racing twin-disk 7.25" clutch kit and a set of Real Racing wheels (13x10 +6 offset, which will narrow the car's overall track by 2").

Unpacked the Miata from last weekend's autocross, cleaned the shop floor, jacked 'er up on the biggest jackstands I have, pulled the exhaust header & test-pipe, and the accessory drive pulley, and put on the crank holder tool.

Sprayed down the transmission with some brake-clean to get the crud off, which reminded me that I need to buy a new CAS O-ring (and a rear main seal, for while I'm in there) before I go too much further.

Grabbed the bottle of rust-converter and sprayed down the frame rails and a few other spots. It's all just surface rust from bottoming out and dragging across the trailer on my old trailer, but I want to stop it before it goes any further. I also need to pull the passenger seat & harness back out.


...and replace the clutch.
 
Helped Marc do his timing belt yesterday, took 5 hours with a 1 hour lunch break.

As for my car, since I've had zero interest in it and its so much fun to drive, I'm going to tough it out and keep it. So, Mahk's IC is on. Also traded my wheels with Kevin, so now I'm rocking '05 MSM wheels with Star Specs. Man the car feels different, so much better. Haven't got them to squeal yet. I have plans to paint my stock wheels a neon color, but don't know exactly when.





 
Installed a Racing Beat hollow front sway bar (.188 wall race bar), 949 Racing end links, and Racing Beat blocks and bolts. Even though I still need to adjust the end links so that the bar is setup properly, the car feels fantastic with it on there.

And while I had the car in the air I changed the oil as well.

Plus... I picked up a set of used Toyo R1Rs to use for the rest of the autocross season. I'm going to replace the NT-01s that are on my RPF1s so if anyone is interested in 205-50-15 NT01s with 1.5-3 32nds remaining let me know.
 
Nice!

If only I had 15" wheels right now... If you still have them in a couple months, I'll hit you up. Haha (Providing I don't find something for the Civic sooner)
 
Just let me know, there's a very good chance I will still have them. :)
 
As many as it takes...

This, obviously, is the correct answer.

Installed a Racing Beat hollow front sway bar (.188 wall race bar), 949 Racing end links, and Racing Beat blocks and bolts. Even though I still need to adjust the end links so that the bar is setup properly, the car feels fantastic with it on there.

Disconnect both the end-links and make sure the bar can move freely. If it can't, it's because RB is still shipping these with oversized bushings that cause binding, and eventually, shredded sway-bar mounts. Your 2 solutions are a) shave down the bushings with sand-paper a little at a time until they don't bind, or b) shim the swaybar brackets with a washer or 2 (I think I just have 1 under each of the bolts) until it moves freely.
 
How freely is freely? Haha.

I did check though, it moves but there is noticeable resistance, so I wouldn't describe it as moving freely. :( I will fix it with the washer method.
 
How freely is freely? Haha.

If it doesn't fall with gravity alone, it's too tight. Mine will drop (not super fast, but without assistance, you still want the bushing doing its job and the bar not to just be flopping about, that's just as bad if not worse) until it contacts the tie-rods.
 
OK it definitely doesn't do that. I have to physically move it to a position and it will stay there. Damnit Racing Beat!
 
We had to remove the brackets on Marc's bar, those are a b****... he said he was thinking about going back to stock so I might grab it from him. PO used some rubber and clamps instead of the stupid collars they send
 
I'm not sure what you are talking about. The brackets are 2 bolts each?
 
I'm not sure what you are talking about. The brackets are 2 bolts each?

They sell the 'beefed up" extra stuff - longer bolts and the block that goes on top of the stock mount. Its supposed to help the stiffer bar not break the stock mounting points. After you tighten the bolts on the bracket, you have to move the nuts at the top to push the block all the way up, not a lot of room for that.
 
Oh the RB blocks and bolts aka brace hardware... Not sure if it's different on the NB, but it was a piece of cake on my car.
 
Replaced the CAS O-ring (what a pain in the @$$, even after pulling the valve cover and engine hoist ring off).

Figured out why the clutch was such a pain to bleed (I'll now be on my 4th slave cyl.). The slave cyl was full of fluid.

Disconnected the slave cyl from the clutch line, to replace it with a braided steel line.

Put a 2nd coat of paint / rust inhibitor on the frame rails.

The transmission comes out Thursday.
 
Installed Flyin Miata Sway Bars.

In the past week here are all the things I have done.

Miata 1: Roll Bar, New Polk Speakers, Flyin Miata Sway Bars, Oil Change
Miata 2: New Windshield, Painted the wheels, the gas cover, the mirrors, fixed the out of shape top, installed a stereo system, fixed the non-locking trunk

I know I'm forgetting things, but this is all that comes to mind.
 
The allure of running a big spark gap for extra power, not shredding ignition wires, and generally better drivability has finally won me over. I bought the parts to start a COP conversion.

There are kits out there that are PNP for $300, but I'm sticking with the cheaper DIY option.

How-to write-up: http://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/upgrading-coil-plugs-all-years-cop-writeup-12704/

I got these coils: http://www.ebay.com/itm/17089367785...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

And these connectors. I got the crimp-your-own flavor because I have the crimping tool at work: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/a...&search_in_description=1&keywords=90980-11885

So for less than $100 I have all of the specialty hardware. DIY COP ignition here we go!
 

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