What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

[the_saint]

Wait...what?? You boosted an automatic?? Now I'm really interested!!

This deserves it's own thread.

 

[Orangutan]

Wait...what?? You boosted an automatic?? Now I'm really interested!!

This deserves it's own thread.

This.

 

[rodslinger]

Wait...what?? You boosted an automatic?? Now I'm really interested!!

This deserves it's own thread.

I can post pics or answer questions about it but it wasn't really that involved. The install required very little deviance from a standard 3 with a manual transmission. I needed no custom parts or modifications that couldn't have been handled by tweaking a bracket or moving a cable harness over an inch or so. Was fairly straight forward. The tuning still needs some work but the issues are minor. Just different than the 3 and needs to get dialed in.

 

[the_saint]

How about more of a reference, for others that may be interested. Document whatever issues that may come up as well as whatever comes of transmission upgrades and/or failures.

 

[Rockin03mp5]

yes. a thread about it would be nice. i only thought tripoint did a kit for manual cars, but it is really just in the tuning part that is changed anyways.

either way, sounds like fun! hope your tranny lasts!

 

[phunky.buddha]

Kinda starting to think that. I had a satisfying feeling being able to outdrag a Honda Civic up an interstate entrance ramp to beat the merge.

Oh, you should be able to do that almost in stock form.

None yet. Not sure if I'll ever get one. Standard Tri-Point kit so should be in the 240whp to 260whp range.

Not bad- but now that I read/remember you did this on an auto, I'm curious to know what the loss through the transmission is vs the manual.

Nope. Was completely sober when I decided to do it. (just kidding)

I want to swap in a 6 speed, but I'm doing an emergency clutch replacement now, so I don't have time to research parts interchangeability between the 5 and 6 speed transmissions. If I actually attempted it, I was going to shove an LSD into the new transmission. Sucks though- none of the online stores that sell parts (not even the dealers) have parts detail on the 2012 5. If I could even verify that the axles are the same part number, it'd be a start!

More like stock torque converter. This van is an auto. The 08 I had was a stick. In retrospect I probably should have kept that one. The torque management actually works pretty good with it. It drops the throttle enough between gear changes that you actually hear the bypass valve release. It almost feels and sounds like a manual trans car when it shifts under boost. I'm at the PRI show this week in Orlando and spoke with the Mazdaspeed guys today. One of their vehicle engineers is going to be here Friday. Am going to see if I can get a few minutes with him to see what improvements can be done to the FNR5 automatic. They are also going to be converting a stock Mazda2 to a B-spec car at the show. Will have to check that out.

Ohhhhhhh. I guess the torque converter will soak up all the shock until the fluid wears out and the converter takes a dump. Hopefully that will be never!

Wait...what?? You boosted an automatic?? Now I'm really interested!!

This deserves it's own thread.

YES!

yes. a thread about it would be nice. i only thought tripoint did a kit for manual cars, but it is really just in the tuning part that is changed anyways.

either way, sounds like fun! hope your tranny lasts!

Physically it shouldn't make a different auto vs manual since nothing gets attached to the transmission... I AM interested in a detailed writeup showing what had to be modified to fit the 5 with a 3 kit.

Then again, I was going to pursue making all my own parts and then tuning with an AEM FIC.

 

[thaxman]

Physically it shouldn't make a different auto vs manual since nothing gets attached to the transmission... I AM interested in a detailed writeup showing what had to be modified to fit the 5 with a 3 kit.

Then again, I was going to pursue making all my own parts and then tuning with an AEM FIC.

Bet its all ECU related, what with the huge difference in gearing.

 

[rodslinger]

I AM interested in a detailed writeup showing what had to be modified to fit the 5 with a 3 kit.

Then again, I was going to pursue making all my own parts and then tuning with an AEM FIC.

I'll get some detailed pics of anything that anyone wants to see. The only items that were different to the 3 with a manual trans is really limited to the following. Following the installation instruction for the 3, the deviations are in the following order. Reference the 3 install manual located at http://tripointengineering.com/images/turbokitmanual.pdf

1) Step 16 in the guide - If you have a manual transmission, follow this procedure. If you have an automatic the look for the shifter cable in the same area. Disconnect the plastic retainer from the bracket and roll the cable to the underside of the bracket and reattach.

2) Step 17 in guide advises to remove the lower rear torque mount. Do not. Support the engine from beneath with a wooden block and a floor jack. Disconnect and remove the upper front engine mount (top passenger side). Ease the motor down with the jack as far as you can making sure not to pull or stretch any hoses or wiring. Don't drop the motor out of the car or let it roll into the radiator either. The motor will drop and roll forward giving you the room you need to get the exhaust out. The cowl in the 5 comes forward further than the 3 and this is necessary. This would probably be an easier option for the 3 also.

3) Step 18 - The bracket in this step was a little different but there. Just get it out of the way and route the hoses there to give room for the intake tube. You have room to shuffle them around.

4) Step 22 - Fuel injector modification. No need to cut wires. Tripoint is now putting harness adapters in the kit. Just plug them up and go.

5) Step 27 to about 31 - Cody at Tripoint will send you the appropriate wiring for you model. Just use a good ohm meter to make sure you have the correct circuit before splicing in. Take your time and it'll fire right up the first time.

6) Step 32 - Just a tip. The turbo doesn't come installed on the manifold. Use a marker or touch up paint to mark the compressor housing index. Remove the compressor housing and be careful not to bang up or damage the compressor wheel. Take off the oil feed line also for that extra room to work. Taking the housing off gives you the room you need for that last bolt to mount the turbo to the manifold. Get the oil line back on before mounting in the car.

7) When you get near step 43 and start intercooler piping and istallation you'll need to make two little tweaks here. If you have an automatic car you have to give the transmission dipstick tube a firm and intentional yet careful shove rearward and to the right. Try not to break it off but you HAVE to have an extra 1 to 1.5 inch clearance on it. In stock location the dipstick tube comes up right in front of the turbo inlet. Your alternate option is to order a universal transmission dipstick tube from Summit or Jegs and use it. They usually have flexible shafts and can be routed anywhere you wish. There is a chance that a dipstick tube from a 4cyl Mazda6 or Ford Fusion may be bent in a way that is ideal for this install but haven't checked it out yet. Just bend the tube. 5 seconds and done....

8) The other tweak is to the 3" silicone elbow used to connect the turbo inlet to the inlet pipe to the air filter. Cut about 1" off the end of the elbow that mounts on the turbo side. This will get the pipe a little closer and help clear the transmission dipstick tube the rest of the way. Now when installed the dipstick tube will lightly press on the outer radius of the dipstick tube. It will cause no issues at this point and you can get the intercooler tubing connected.

9) One of the final steps points out where to tap for vacuum on the manifold. This location may or may not be there. There should be two vacuum lines to the left of the indicated location. Just cut and tee into one of them then connect to the FIC and bypass valve as shown.

As mentioned at this point it seems the only issue left it to dial in the tune. I found that the factory MAF tube has a 2.45" ID. The turbo inlet pipe where the MAF is now mounted has a 3" ID so the difference in pipe diameter is throwing the airspeed across the MAF off and giving the MAF out of range error. I'm going to have the pipe dimpled at the MAF to get the cross sectional area the same as the OEM MAF tube before I start tuning and see if it brings the MAF range back into scale. I'm traveling now and will not even be able to look at the car again until about the 8th or 9th.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Awesome that you've taken the plunge.


Can you take some (as many as you can ) close up pics of the turbo manifold? I'm interested in a tubo build but would like to build a low boost junkyard turbo type setup. The tripoint kit is not cheap and I don't want that much power; ~160-180whp is good enough for me. The biggest missing piece for me is a good solid and reliable turbo mani. This is the same part and fit as the Mz3, right? The motor maybe the same but do you also have the same space? Do you know if you can buy it separately?

Any long drives and do you notice any heat issues on engine bay components or interior cabin? Looking forward to hearing about MPG impact after you get it tuned.

 

[phunky.buddha]

I'll get some detailed pics of anything that anyone wants to see. The only items that were different to the 3 with a manual trans is really limited to the following. Following the installation instruction for the 3, the deviations are in the following order. Reference the 3 install manual located at http://tripointengineering.com/images/turbokitmanual.pdf

Sweet, thanks for all that! I'll just have to weigh the cost of the Tri-Point kit vs fabricating one on my own... it's not cheap.

Awesome that you've taken the plunge.


Can you take some (as many as you can ) close up pics of the turbo manifold? I'm interested in a tubo build but would like to build a low boost junkyard turbo type setup. The tripoint kit is not cheap and I don't want that much power; ~160-180whp is good enough for me. The biggest missing piece for me is a good solid and reliable turbo mani. This is the same part and fit as the Mz3, right? The motor maybe the same but do you also have the same space? Do you know if you can buy it separately?

Any long drives and do you notice any heat issues on engine bay components or interior cabin? Looking forward to hearing about MPG impact after you get it tuned.

I already hit 143whp with zero mods- so 160 is within reach without a turbo.

I did find this manifold a year or so ago:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Not sure if it's worth the cost, but it's CHEAP.

 

[Silentnoise713]

I already hit 143whp with zero mods- so 160 is within reach without a turbo.

I did find this manifold a year or so ago:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Not sure if it's worth the cost, but it's CHEAP.

Your dyno results do look good but a few more is need to get a good bases. I saw some Mz3 (2.3) dynos were lower than yours. I agree n/a 160 is doable (as on some Mz3) but the cost would equal too or exceed a low budget turbo build that can provide much more, granted this takes more effort than bolt-ons. Also, I was thinking more in the upper 180 range but definitely under 200 can keep me happy.

I came across that mani before but couldn't find anyone with feedback on it.

 

[rodslinger]

... The biggest missing piece for me is a good solid and reliable turbo mani. This is the same part and fit as the Mz3, right? The motor maybe the same but do you also have the same space? Do you know if you can buy it separately?

Any long drives and do you notice any heat issues on engine bay components or interior cabin? Looking forward to hearing about MPG impact after you get it tuned.

I would guess they'll sell the manifold separately. It is cast iron and looks solid as hell but not sure if it the same as the OEM unit. I didn't check for OEM markings on it. Space within the engine compartment seems about the same as the 3. If anything the cowl on the 5 seems to come forward a little more which is why I had to remove the front mount to get extra clearance for install.

I haven't driven it that much but I did use it for errands and a visit to my sister the weekend of Thanksgiving. Noticed no heat issues or rubbing anywhere. I think I put about 130 miles on it. I did fill it back up that weekend and saw 22.3mpg (miles into gallons) on that fillup after the install. About 1/2 the tank was post turbo. That was better than the 17.x MPG (yest that is accurate) I saw on the previous fillup. I had nearly 100% city stop and go driving on the previous tank. Hard to really compare but it didn't seem to hurt the mileage any (YET). I'm also driving it relatively easy. I'll put a lot more miles on it during Christmas break and get a better feel for it.

I think my only real gripe with it is the intercooler piping supplied by Tri-Point. It fits fine but it is a VERY thin wall material. Transmits a LOT of the turbo noise. Almost amplifies it. While I'm sure the average 18 year old would like it especially with a bumping sound system and open exhaust, I'm 40 with two kids. I want fast and stealth.... I ordered some plastidip and am going to coat the exterior of the intercooler piping. Will see how it helps with acoustics and the matte black under the hood keeps it stealthy. Putting in AEM wideband/boost combo failsafe gage this weekend also to help dial in the final tune.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Your dyno results do look good but a few more is need to get a good bases. I saw some Mz3 (2.3) dynos were lower than yours. I agree n/a 160 is doable (as on some Mz3) but the cost would equal too or exceed a low budget turbo build that can provide much more, granted this takes more effort than bolt-ons. Also, I was thinking more in the upper 180 range but definitely under 200 can keep me happy.

I came across that mani before but couldn't find anyone with feedback on it.

All true- but any turbo setup should take you over the 200whp mark once you get to any halfway decent positive boost number. Just filling in the vacuum alone will probably get you to 150-155whp, then 5psi if the efficient range of the turbo marches up towards redline would probably get you past 200whp. Without feedback, I'm almost willing to give the manifold a shot just to see how it is... it's cheap enough. Not too many people (across all forums) seem to complain about the Godspeed manifolds- just the turbos themselves.

I would guess they'll sell the manifold separately. It is cast iron and looks solid as hell but not sure if it the same as the OEM unit.

I wonder what their price would be... the stock manifold looks like it could be modded to have a turbo flange on it- I'll look at it again while I'm under the car tonight.

I think my only real gripe with it is the intercooler piping supplied by Tri-Point. It fits fine but it is a VERY thin wall material. Transmits a LOT of the turbo noise. Almost amplifies it. While I'm sure the average 18 year old would like it especially with a bumping sound system and open exhaust, I'm 40 with two kids. I want fast and stealth.... I ordered some plastidip and am going to coat the exterior of the intercooler piping. Will see how it helps with acoustics and the matte black under the hood keeps it stealthy. Putting in AEM wideband/boost combo failsafe gage this weekend also to help dial in the final tune.

I would think you'd want the piping as thin as possible to allow more heat to get out of the system. After you paint the piping, maybe you could wrap it with Dynamat (or Peel'n'Seal).

 

[rodslinger]

I would think you'd want the piping as thin as possible to allow more heat to get out of the system. After you paint the piping, maybe you could wrap it with Dynamat (or Peel'n'Seal).

I can understand that train of thought. I'm thinking along the lines of letting the intercooler do its job and not let engine bay heat back into the piping.

On a side note I think I found a programmer that can do something with the transmission tuning. Company called Dynotronics in Texas. They apparently tune just about anything and apparently directly with Mazda on some of their R&D projects. Have spoken to them already and opening a line of discussion to see how to proceed. The good news is they can do ECU tuning on the 5 also. So for those of you bummed out by the love the 3 and Mazdaspeed3 guys get this may be your option.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Cool. I'll have to look them up. Where in Texas are they?

 

[maz5subjugator]

HI Im new here and I am not totaly sure how to navigate to post a question or start a thread, so if anyone can help I'd appreciate it. Also, while I am here I might as well ask if anyone would have the torque for the oil cooler on a 2009 mazda5. I had to make my own gasget for it till I can afford all that I need to make a perminate fix. $$$$$$ =(

 

[the_saint]

Here is where you post a new thread. Just pick what forum you want to post in and click this...

...as for torque specs, sorry, I got nothing.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Still fighting trying to get the damn transmission mated back up to the block after putting in a new clutch...

 

[phunky.buddha]

So... FINALLY yesterday morning, got all this done:

Clutch replacement (stock OEM Exedy replacement), pedal engages in the middle of the stroke now, pedal effort is LIGHTER than stock
Engine oil adapter conversion to spin-on filter
Passenger engine mount replaced (all of $65 shipped from Amazon, 5 minutes with a 17mm and a floor jack to put in)
Transmission fluid, 75w90 Mobil1
Oil, 5w20 Pennzoil Platinum

Loads of cuts/scratches all over my arms from pushing on the engine/transmission from underneath. I'll just take the whole damn drivetrain out of the car the next time I need to do a clutch.

 

[00bluees]

went to a junkyard today and grabbed the sterring wheel controls and brake switch needed to add cruise control to my 5. 30 mins after i started i was finished and i have cruise control now!! yay!! i used the parts from a mazda3, all the same except the lights in the switches are red instead of green like the 5. which is hideous. i want to swap a 3 cluster in instead of the hideous green one.