What do you recommend: "Lubricate all locks, hinges, etc"

bmninada

Contributor
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2016 CX-5 AWD GT+iActive Soul Red
I want to know what's recommended for the task "Lubricate all locks, hinges, etc." in terms of product to use? Few tell me - under no circumstances use WD-40. I checked and found in a new car, there seems to be some white gooey material when I pulled 1 door handle. Seems to be lithium grease perhaps?
Personally, for last 2 years during every oil change I used Boeshield T-9 Lubricant.

2nd.: Door handles, locks and hinges across the 4 doors, hood and trunk is great but anywhere else might make sense to also lubricate?
 
Use a silicon based lubricant, they don't leave a buildup. A lot of people use the white lithium grease. Me, I just spray some silicon on.
 
I use a few drops of clean engine oil in an oil can and hold a bit of cloth under them to stop it dropping down the door shuts. I hate the white spray on wax they sell for such things. It just holds dirt.
 
I use a few drops of clean engine oil in an oil can and hold a bit of cloth under them to stop it dropping down the door shuts. I hate the white spray on wax they sell for such things. It just holds dirt.

and motor oil doesn't?
 
WD-40 is by no means a lubricant - so whoever said that is correct. WD stands for water displacement.
 
I want to know what's recommended for the task "Lubricate all locks, hinges, etc." in terms of product to use? Few tell me - under no circumstances use WD-40. I checked and found in a new car, there seems to be some white gooey material when I pulled 1 door handle. Seems to be lithium grease perhaps?
Personally, for last 2 years during every oil change I used Boeshield T-9 Lubricant.

2nd.: Door handles, locks and hinges across the 4 doors, hood and trunk is great but anywhere else might make sense to also lubricate?

Props on Boshield T9. Most people don't research nearly far enough to have done that, lol! That said, I've honestly never done it. If the dealership does it, I have not noticed any overspray or anything like that, so I kindof doubt they do. I've never done this on ANY vehicle I have owned ever, with the exception of the T-Tops in my WS.6, using Dielectric Silicon Grease ($11.99 from GM dealer...because.) I have never noted any adverse effect from not doing so.

If I were to do so, T9 is a good choicec, and don't see any reason for you to not continue with it.
 
To lubricate the door lock mechanism, you can use a silicone lube, grease lube, or Teflon-based lubrication in addition to graphite powder. You can also use WD-40 or white lithium grease as a penetrating fluid. Consider the weather in your area while selecting a suitable lubricant.
 
WD = water depletion.
However, WD-40 is a brand now. It carries many diff products such as this one.
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I won't tell you what product to use, but put a silicone or other lube on all rubber seals/door and hood rubber
 
As regards frequency, out of curiosity I took a look at the service schedules in the 2020 North American manual because it's been 15 years, maybe longer, since I've lubed a door hinge or seen any evidence that a service center has done so on vehicles going up to 10 years and 100,000+ miles.

First, the manual has an introductory statement that says, "All moving points of the body, such as door and hood hinges and locks, should be lubricated each time the engine oil is changed." That strikes me as overkill.

Not all service schedules are in agreement. Schedule 1, US and PR, Flexible (7,500 mi oil change) makes no reference to lubing locks and hinges. All the other say it should be done with each oil change. This could be just another one of those inconsistencies between schedules that are hard to explain.

On the other hand, Mazda's Full Circle Service Report Card has no line item for these lube services and after having gotten two of these reports I detect no lubricant on the hinges.

Long story short, I would offer the contrary opinion that if a door is operating smoothly then it ain't broke and does not need fixing. Squirting something in the locks every 5,000 miles sounds like a bad idea to me as it runs the risk of eventually gumming them up. Maybe test the locks with the manual backup key at an oil change and lube if needed. In all likelihood it won't.
 
Some parts, hinges, etc. seem to be more exposed. If I see any rust naturally I step up the lubrication. I use silicon spray on the rubber and try to get that spray white lithium grease into the hinges.

I wonder if they recommend increased frequency because not much lube seems to get inside the hinges?
 
Some parts, hinges, etc. seem to be more exposed. If I see any rust naturally I step up the lubrication. I use silicon spray on the rubber and try to get that spray white lithium grease into the hinges.

I wonder if they recommend increased frequency because not much lube seems to get inside the hinges?
I use a spray-on motorcycle chain lube. It goes on thin, to penetrate, but then thickens so as to not run or even be thrown off while driving the rear wheel.

Has worked well for me for years and years....................... Frank
 
I use a spray-on motorcycle chain lube. It goes on thin, to penetrate, but then thickens so as to not run or even be thrown off while driving the rear wheel.

Has worked well for me for years and years....................... Frank
I have some of that. Doesn't it stink? Does ir run?
 
I use Superlube spray or light machine oil (sparingly) on hinge pins and locks and Superlube synthetic grease on the door stopper rods. Rule of thumb " If it rotates, oil it. If it slides then grease it". And I will never use white lithium grease on door hinges ( or whatever) again. The sun warms the car and it runs and collects dirt to make a black mess. And it thickens in cold weather and is not a good choice for things that should slide easily. Just my experience.
 
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