I think the closest US trim would be the non-turbo Premium Plus
What did you pay for your CX-5?
- Thread starter gotodengo
- Start date
What are you folks paying for your new CX-5's, in relation to MSRP?
I assume demand is far outreaching supply at the moment, and am curious what that's doing to the price.
I ask, primarily, because I have a fairly urgent need for a new vehicle, would like it to be the CX-5, but hate the idea of paying at, or above, MSRP
thanks!
2024 Mazda CX-5 MSRP and Invoice Prices | Edmunds
Learn how to get a great price on the 2024 Mazda CX-5. Edmunds has MSRP, invoice prices, out-the-door prices and an analysis of recent prices paid in your area equivalent to the blue book value.
www.edmunds.com
It is a dangerous question... it depends on how much the dealer pads the sticker. For instance, undercarriage treatment and anti rust package - $1000 which some kid on minimum wage did for $25 in cost. You need to watch for the dishonest dealers.
If you want an education on negotiation, I am a big fan of this channel. CarEdge
- :
- '23 CX-5 CE
Agreed. My dealer tried to pad the sticker with dealer installed add-ons at over 3X the Mazda MSRP for the add-ons. I called BS and pulled them up on the Mazda site. The negotiation started there.2024 Mazda CX-5 MSRP and Invoice Prices | Edmunds
Learn how to get a great price on the 2024 Mazda CX-5. Edmunds has MSRP, invoice prices, out-the-door prices and an analysis of recent prices paid in your area equivalent to the blue book value.www.edmunds.com
It is a dangerous question... it depends on how much the dealer pads the sticker. For instance, undercarriage treatment and anti rust package - $1000 which some kid on minimum wage did for $25 in cost. You need to watch for the dishonest dealers.
If you want an education on negotiation, I am a big fan of this channel. CarEdge
Ninja_Matt
Authorized Vendor
Good rule of thumb for Mazda in the US is about 5%-6% off MSRP dealer discount, plus any rebates and incentives from Mazda on top. Invoice is about 2.75%-3.5% depending on model, trim and options. Holdback is = 1% of pre-destination base MSRP. Then there are variable dealer bonus payouts that vary based on several factors such as CSI (customer survey) health, dealership model (is it the old green and orange dealer or the new "Revolution" model showroom) and others.
Assuming a "reasonable" dealer fee of maybe $500-$800 tops, the 5%-6% off MSRP rule constitutes a good deal. Better deals are out there, as some of you familiar with our company will know (hey its our speciality), so you can aim for as high as 10-11% off MSRP from the dealer which is really scraping the bottom of the barrel of all dealer profits and relies on finder a dealer with maximized manufacturer payouts (generally, use # of Google Reviews to find the top volume dealers, not always but again rule of thumb). If you are getting anything less than 5% off, you are leaving money on the table and I would walk on the deal. If you can get 7%-9% off, thats a below market deal and a great deal.
End of month can be hit or miss, definitely not a guaranteed home run deal, but often doesn't hurt if the dealer is in a position to need more volume - but the catch is, if they hit all their targets, the opposite effect can also happen where they are less motivated to "lose money" on a deal.
Also, very important to consider all additional costs in your equation, if a dealer is adding addendums (vin etch, nitrogen tires, etc) make sure to consider that beyond these discounts. Dealers do have some negligible cost added for these items, but markup is typically very high or high enough where they can match these numbers without actually charging you for the extras. This also goes for dealer fees, I've seen MANY people step over a dollar to pick up a penny by nixing any dealer with high dealer fees (like my great state of FL is notorious for), add it into the sale price and consider the net cost. $5,000 off a car with a $2,000 dealer fee is better than $2,000 off a car with a $0 dealer fee. If you're in the 5%-6%+ off range with dealer fee included in the equation, you're golden, anything more is gravy.
Avoid floor models with accessories already installed if you are handy enough to install yourself.
If leasing or financing, be familiar with buy rates, dealers can and will often mark up the interest/money factor which allows them to hide discounts or show a good deal on the discount, but make it all back up by charging you more interest. We offer a free tool that pulls all manufacturer programs in the US, Mazda included of course, this way you can run your own numbers and keep your dealers honest. Auto Ninjas - Best Online Lease Calculator Tool
-Matt
Assuming a "reasonable" dealer fee of maybe $500-$800 tops, the 5%-6% off MSRP rule constitutes a good deal. Better deals are out there, as some of you familiar with our company will know (hey its our speciality), so you can aim for as high as 10-11% off MSRP from the dealer which is really scraping the bottom of the barrel of all dealer profits and relies on finder a dealer with maximized manufacturer payouts (generally, use # of Google Reviews to find the top volume dealers, not always but again rule of thumb). If you are getting anything less than 5% off, you are leaving money on the table and I would walk on the deal. If you can get 7%-9% off, thats a below market deal and a great deal.
End of month can be hit or miss, definitely not a guaranteed home run deal, but often doesn't hurt if the dealer is in a position to need more volume - but the catch is, if they hit all their targets, the opposite effect can also happen where they are less motivated to "lose money" on a deal.
Also, very important to consider all additional costs in your equation, if a dealer is adding addendums (vin etch, nitrogen tires, etc) make sure to consider that beyond these discounts. Dealers do have some negligible cost added for these items, but markup is typically very high or high enough where they can match these numbers without actually charging you for the extras. This also goes for dealer fees, I've seen MANY people step over a dollar to pick up a penny by nixing any dealer with high dealer fees (like my great state of FL is notorious for), add it into the sale price and consider the net cost. $5,000 off a car with a $2,000 dealer fee is better than $2,000 off a car with a $0 dealer fee. If you're in the 5%-6%+ off range with dealer fee included in the equation, you're golden, anything more is gravy.
Avoid floor models with accessories already installed if you are handy enough to install yourself.
If leasing or financing, be familiar with buy rates, dealers can and will often mark up the interest/money factor which allows them to hide discounts or show a good deal on the discount, but make it all back up by charging you more interest. We offer a free tool that pulls all manufacturer programs in the US, Mazda included of course, this way you can run your own numbers and keep your dealers honest. Auto Ninjas - Best Online Lease Calculator Tool
-Matt
The MSRP was $38,300. Tax rate is 6.25%.
- :
- 2024 CX5 Akera G25
I just had a look at Mazda US website and compared Premium Plus with Signature.
While they do the packs different here, the Akera is closest to the Signature. Except for the NA engine and not the Turbo.
Akera is simply available in 2 versions, one turbo, the other NA. Apart from badges and seat stitching they are otherwise the same.
Akera has the nappa leather interior and as far as I could see, it has ALL of the other interior and exterior and tech extras that Signature T has over the PP model, such as traffic sign recognition and inbuilt sat nav.
Some regional differences for sure - for example no cars in Australia have the weather service because its only a US thing. Mazda connected services aren’t yet available here, I am told sometime early/mid next year and will be done as a free software update when the car is in for a service.
RRP here for my Akera before fleet discounts was about $56,500 (as shown on the dealer invoice) plus on-road costs.
But what was the sales price? It should tell you exactly what you paid for the car (before the dealer fees and taxes) on your sales contract. You didn't pay MSRP, I hope....
I posted the sales price earlier in the chat. 37,700 OTD (MSRP 38,300). No mazda incentives (military, loyalty etc). Add one were all mazda/factory accessories (cargo accessories etc) but they pretty much had this car loaded with everything except the roof rack.
Ninja_Matt
Authorized Vendor
I think there is confusion on verbiage being used. OTD (Out the door) refers to the price paid including all taxes and fees, total cost. Sale price would be the selling price of the vehicle exclusive of taxes and fees.
Got it. I think it was $3500 discount off MSRP. So about $34700 for this vehicle. I could be off a bit as I only remember the OTD ( incl title, tags).
Ninja_Matt
Authorized Vendor
What was the discount you received and trade value of your 2021 GT? I think pre-trade OTD is more relevant, guessing your trade was worth around $20k-$23k area so about $37k-$40k OTD?
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- Miata and CX-5
When I trade in a car I am interested in the OTD price I must pay to receive the new car. So, I don't know the numbers you request, such as what the dealer assigned to my trade-in and, or MSRP, discount or not etc...
In the last ten years my family and I have bought seven CX-5's and always traded-in trying to get a specific OTD price to receive the new model. Whether the dealer chooses to assign a high value to my trade-in or discount the MSRP does not matter to me because that is the dealer's business.
This most recent transaction, trading in a 2021 GT w/PP for a 2025 PP was not as good a deal as three years ago, when I traded-in a 2016 CX-5 GT and 2018 CX-5 GT for a 2021 GT and the '21 GT w/PP. 3 years ago the trade-in's were valued higher than they are today.
Ninja_Matt
Authorized Vendor
I completely respect the way you and your family buy cars and shop, but in my opinion, you may be leaving money on the table. You are absolutely correct in that the specific number assigned to trade vs sale price on a new car is not as relevant as the final out the door number, however, it is still important to have data points to compare.
If a new car sells in the market on average for $30,000 and your trade is worth $20,000 on the wholesale market, but your dealer is charging you $35,000 and giving you $15,000 for your trade, then one can reasonably conclude that you are leaving $10,000 on the table; however way they move that money around. To be clear, these numbers aren't in reference to your purchase, just arbitrary example numbers.
I mean no disrespect, I run a company that specializes in negotiating the best car deals in the market and am a "retired" Mazda sales manager, I've seen plenty of ill-informed consumers pay thousands more than they need to just out of ignorance or naivety (not in a pejorative way). I have no clue where you live, your tax rate, specific incentive qualifications, etc so I can't say whether you got a great deal or not, but I'm always happy to offer my experience to forum members for shopping advice or guidance!
Lots of good pricing and negotiation advice in this thread!
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- Miata and CX-5
I live in the SF Bay Area and I guess there are a dozen Mazda dealers within a two-hour drive.
Usually I telephone 5 or 6 dealers, let the sales rep know the VIN # of the 2 or 3 year old Mazda I have to trade-in, specify the new Mazda I want to receive, and they get back to me with an out the door price.
For the CX-5 model the past ten years the six trade-in's I've made have averaged out to about $4,000 per year ownership cost. In other words, if I trade in to a dealer a 2017 model CX-5 GT with 35K miles for a new 2020 CX-5 GT, my out the door price averages $12,000 ($4,000 per year for the 3 years I owned the 2017 model).
Ninja_Matt
Authorized Vendor
It's not a terrible method and it's much better than just going in to your one local dealer and taking what they give for sure. Shopping multiple dealers, great step that a lot of people don't bother putting the effort into (can be a bore to do for sure). Let's do a quick review!
------
Using a $38,000 MSRP (Prem Plus starts at $36,620 w/ destination)
6% Target Discount (represents a good deal for consumers)
$35,720 Sale Price
+$85 Doc fee (capped in CA)
+~$600 Title and reg
---
$36,405 Sub total
-$20,000 Trade Value (a conservative fair trade value for your vehicle based on good condition and dealer auction values)
-$750 Loyalty Rebate
----
$15,655 Net
+$1,351 Est. Tax
---
$17,006 Out the Door
------
Looks like you ended up with a fair deal! I think the methodology has some blind spots, but it happened to work out perfectly well and I think you got a good deal here.
I'm not sure if your CX-5 trade was AWD or FWD, not sure on condition either which plays a big role of course, given you had Premium Package I think it would have been possible to get as much as $22k-$23k for your trade, and 7%-8% discount is not impossible either on the new car, but you're getting into the best case scenario territory. In my opinion, I would be happy with your deal
- :
- Miata and CX-5
This time around, some factors I considered meant paying a bit more than my usual trade-in-deal:It's not a terrible method and it's much better than just going in to your one local dealer and taking what they give for sure. Shopping multiple dealers, great step that a lot of people don't bother putting the effort into (can be a bore to do for sure). Let's do a quick review!
------
Using a $38,000 MSRP (Prem Plus starts at $36,620 w/ destination)
6% Target Discount (represents a good deal for consumers)
$35,720 Sale Price
+$85 Doc fee (capped in CA)
+~$600 Title and reg
---
$36,405 Sub total
-$20,000 Trade Value (a conservative fair trade value for your vehicle based on good condition and dealer auction values)
-$750 Loyalty Rebate
----
$15,655 Net
+$1,351 Est. Tax
---
$17,006 Out the Door
------
Looks like you ended up with a fair deal! I think the methodology has some blind spots, but it happened to work out perfectly well and I think you got a good deal here.
I'm not sure if your CX-5 trade was AWD or FWD, not sure on condition either which plays a big role of course, given you had Premium Package I think it would have been possible to get as much as $22k-$23k for your trade, and 7%-8% discount is not impossible either on the new car, but you're getting into the best case scenario territory. In my opinion, I would be happy with your deal
1) It was December 24th 2021 that I purchased the 2021 GT w/PP. Due to Covid there were no 22's at US dealers until I believe at least Feb-March of 2022.
2) the 2021 GT w/PP I traded-in last week as not as full featured as the 2025 Premium Plus I received; for example the 2025 has the 360* camera, cordless phone charging, and enhanced Apple CarPlay.
I figured that me trading in a 2021 model was probably worth about $800 less than had I been trading-in a 2022. And the added features of the 2025 Premium Plus compared to the 2021 GT w/Premium Package was worth $800 to $1000.
So, considering the above factors, plus the market environment today where preowned cars are not worth as much as dollars as they were during the new-car-inventory-shortage of year 2021, I believe I received a fair and reasonable deal last week.
I am fortunate to be in a region where there are a dozen Mazda dealers near each other competing for customers. But even if I lived in a remote are with only one Mazda dealer and had to pay more , I would still consider the Mazda to be a great value. Compared to other brands I believe what Mazda at MSRP offers is significantly better in terms of drive handling, suspension, interior design and style etc...
I think what Ninja Matt was asking initially was (if you were comfortable with it) to tell what the actual selling price of your 25 CX-5 PP as that is more helpful to others. Everyone will have a different experience with trade-in, taxes, etc, but the selling price of the car (which will be clearly listed on your sales contract) could help others in your area to know what kind of deals are available. Totally agree with you about current trade in prices. My 20 Frontier SV was trading in much higher than I paid for it during covid when inventories were down. Now my truck is down below what I paid.
