Wastegate Question

[celdridge]

Ok ... i have been running the hardpipes / Greddy BOV (no BPV) setup for about 3 weeks now and the more i drive the more annoyed i become. I am starting to wonder if there is something wrong. First of all ... i have no turkey, which is the greatest thing in the world ... that is not my problem though. When i shift gears (before the turbo comes to full spool --- around 3800 - 4800 RPM) i hear a loud flutter sound... almost like the Turkey, but not a gobble ... just a flutter sound. I keep thinking to myself that the noise has to be coming from the wastegate, as it is the only other part in that turbo section that makes any noise when it vents. Does anyone know if we have an internal or external wastegate? Is it replacable with a better one? Second part of this post is that the BOV is still too damn quiet and its all whistle and no hsssss. Of course i am running stock boost and the BOV does jack and s*** until i get the turbo up to fully engaged (about 5200 - 6000 RPM).

Some one help... PLEZ

 

[AutoBox]

loosin the spring on the bov..its too tight and the valve doesnt open enough to let air out effeciently...the fl;utter is ur bov also......and we have a internal wastegate stock

 

[celdridge]

loosin the spring on the bov..its too tight and the valve doesnt open enough to let air out effeciently...the fl;utter is ur bov also......and we have a internal wastegate stock

are you saying to take the spring out of the bov? which direction (hard or soft)... arent i back to stalling issues again if i mess with the BOV too much?

 

[AutoBox]

no u turn the spring towards "soft" until u "tune" the bov right.....its trial and error...turn the sring a lil...drive the car...turn the spring...drive the car...until the bov allows enough air to be relased with out a flutter and the bov works correctly.....its either turn the spring softer on ur bov or bump ur boost up until there is enough air to fight the tight spring on the bov and have it work properly..thats y the bov has that feature....so u can "tune" it for the specific psi ur runnin

 

[celdridge]

no u turn the spring towards "soft" until u "tune" the bov right.....its trial and error...turn the sring a lil...drive the car...turn the spring...drive the car...until the bov allows enough air to be relased with out a flutter and the bov works correctly.....its either turn the spring softer on ur bov or bump ur boost up until there is enough air to fight the tight spring on the bov and have it work properly..thats y the bov has that feature....so u can "tune" it for the specific psi ur runnin

Yes ... i know how to tune the BOV ... but going too soft will cause the car to stall and its already at what i can tell is the limit without having the car stall. I am right now dropping to around 500 rpm and then going back up to 1100 and the car is stable like that ... should i remove that center spring and tune the BOV again?

 

[mattybo]

Yes ... i know how to tune the BOV ... but going too soft will cause the car to stall and its already at what i can tell is the limit without having the car stall. I am right now dropping to around 500 rpm and then going back up to 1100 and the car is stable like that ... should i remove that center spring and tune the BOV again?

Re-introduce a BPV into the system? Forge makes a good stainless steel one that will work, or you can use the stock one?

 

[AutoBox]

well if u remove the spring there will be no tension to hold the valve closed in the bov......are u runnin a "dual setup" because u will see stallin with the bov not recirculating..... if u are at the limit of the bov from stallin and its still not opening enough to release the air pressure goin back to the turbo then i dunno what u can do...but the troubles u describe say "bov" all over it IMO.....

 

[celdridge]

well if u remove the spring there will be no tension to hold the valve closed in the bov......are u runnin a "dual setup" because u will see stallin with the bov not recirculating..... if u are at the limit of the bov from stallin and its still not opening enough to release the air pressure goin back to the turbo then i dunno what u can do...but the troubles u describe say "bov" all over it IMO.....

OK ... i guess ill have to live with it then ... im not about to put to BPV back into the system it makes the BOV way way too quiet. Thanks for your help though.

 

[celdridge]

Re-introduce a BPV into the system? Forge makes a good stainless steel one that will work, or you can use the stock one?

2 words ... HELLS NO.

 

[mattybo]

OK ... i guess ill have to live with it then ... im not about to put to BPV back into the system it makes the BOV way way too quiet. Thanks for your help though.

Well i will let you know how my installation goes. I will be installing my hardpipes with a Type-S this week. (solo system without the BPV). Hopefully i won't have that same flutter sound!

 

[mattybo]

2 words ... HELLS NO.

Why are you so against it? Try recirculating your BOV maybe?

 

[celdridge]

Well i will let you know how my installation goes. I will be installing my hardpipes with a Type-S this week. (solo system without the BPV). Hopefully i won't have that same flutter sound!

good luck my friend ... its a long process getting the car not to stall.

 

[AutoBox]

with upped boost u may be fine matty....ive tuned bov's on nissan sr's and ka-t's .....i dunno y he doesnt have no grey area where there is no serious stallin and the bov works properly

btw.....msbluep a local msp guy on here...has the type-s with the stock bpv and that s*** is loud as hell....ever over his catless/resonatorless turbo back......ur bov may just be ****** ?

 

[celdridge]

Why are you so against it? Try recirculating your BOV maybe?

That looks even more ghetto than having the BOV / BPV combo.

 

[AutoBox]

i rather have it workin right and look "ghetto" then work like s*** and run like s***.....even recirculated..the type-s is loud and will still give u what u want

 

[mattybo]

That looks even more ghetto than having the BOV / BPV combo.

First off, who gives a s*** about how it looks? You can make it look "show" if you want. Like i said, the forge BPV is stainless steel. Get some colored silicon hose and voila you have a show looking engine bay with a dual combo. Recirculating isnt ghetto. Simply have a shop weld a nipple on your intake pipe and attach silicone hose to it and the end of the BOV. Recirculates, and sounds good.

Autobox: From what i have heard, recirculating the type-s creates super turkey. I'm gonna start out with my hardpipes and the type-s completely vented. See how well i can tune it and go from there. If after a couple weeks i dont like it, i will recirculate the type-s(with a welded nipple on my sri) If i don't like that, i will buy a forge BPV and use that in combo with my type-s.

 

[AutoBox]

if u get a chance tlak to msbluep (mounchie) he has the dual setup with the type -s and i didnt hear any turkey..just a nice hks soudning phhhsswoosshh......he lives around college park

 

[jersey_emt]

My GReddy Type-S is PLENTY loud even using the stock BPV in parallel.

 

[tiwing]

or go with a dual port valve like the Turbosmart. Tiny bit of turkey, but a nice pssssht too. sounds kinda like a whip (wha-chhhhht) and is loud enough at 5psi (yes, less than stock for now) to scare little old ladies.

Edit: we have internal wastegates. the flutter is most likely NOT the wastegate because it is really hard to hear the flutter of an internal.

 

[celdridge]

My GReddy Type-S is PLENTY loud even using the stock BPV in parallel.

I wish mine was ... i want the same sound that my Greddy S makes in my Eclipse ... its loud enough to make your hair stand on end.