Upping the boost

it seems like many many msp's on this board run above stock psi w/out any problems - seems like rods bending is a very one-off case. not that it can't happen or anything, but it seems unlikely unless you are goin over the edge w/ the boost.

would it be safe to run 9 psi using a joep mbc if my mods are intake, hardpipes, dp, catback? i have a fcd and fpr available, but would those be necessary if i'm flashed and don't plan on doing crazy boost?

drew.
 
They is now over 500 blown up mazdaspeeds right now with problems in cylinder 4, bend rods to holes in the block. Numbers don't lie. I have a very tight connection with Mazda. Mazda is branding all cars that come in with blown motors and no warranty. There is a master list that is accessable at any Mazda dealership of cars branded with this. If any mods are on the car when they arrive, they will refuse the warranty work.
 
500 holy S*, i'm prob. going to turn my flashed msp off now damn i've been running 13 psi for like 10 months 12,000 miles with just colder plugs, hmmmm i guess my intuition says i need some forged internals
 
At one point there were almost 800 that mazda knew of. Also Many Mazdaspeed Miata's have returned with the same problem. Too much boost for the rods. I will never own another Mazdaspeed product. They cut corners. Now I can run 20 psi My car will be dyno'd in November and tuned with AFC 2 and fuel management, and a Greddy E-01 boost controller. I have to brake in the new motor.
 
I did mine myself so I have no Idea, I have a shop in Arizona, but it only took 2 hours to pull the motor, one day to rebuild it and one day to stab it back into the car. It took 14 weeks to get the rods and pistons. I also did a turbo upgrade at the same time and exturnally wastegated the stock manifold. It fired the first try. You could save alot of money pulling and stabbing the motor yourself. It cost me $400.00 to have the valves fixed and the head ported and polished, and $100 to have the crank polished.
 
zzooomm said:
I did mine myself so I have no Idea, I have a shop in Arizona, but it only took 2 hours to pull the motor, one day to rebuild it and one day to stab it back into the car. It took 14 weeks to get the rods and pistons. I also did a turbo upgrade at the same time and exturnally wastegated the stock manifold. It fired the first try. You could save alot of money pulling and stabbing the motor yourself. It cost me $400.00 to have the valves fixed and the head ported and polished, and $100 to have the crank polished.
what are the benefits to porting and polishing the engine internals?

also, is it possible to install forged rods w/out having access to a shop? would i need to take the car to a dealer or shop to have them installed?
 
warrier04 said:
also, is it possible to install forged rods w/out having access to a shop? would i need to take the car to a dealer or shop to have them installed?
Of course you can do it yourself, but if you have to ask, you'll need some experienced assistance. Not a huge deal.
 
understandable. on the other hand, there's no such thing as instant experience.

on a side note - how beneficial is it to just go forged rods instead of pistons and rods? would just doing the rods be half-assing it, or is that eliminated the problem w/ boosting at stock engine internals?

drew.
 
The pistons aren't as weak as the rods. But my philosophy would be to do it all at the same time and not have to do again. However, Juan (Hiboost TS) doesn't have forged pistons in his 12 second P5.
 
As far as forged internals go, are they all the same? brand preferences? price differences? Anyone here with forged rods/pistons? Where from and how much?
Blah?
 
zzooomm said:
They look for the glue line to be broken on the tee where it goes to the wastegate. They can also pull the amounto of boost that the car is running from the computer, so always clear the computer before taking it to mazda.

The computer does not control or monitor boost in any way.

zzooomm said:
They is now over 500 blown up mazdaspeeds right now with problems in cylinder 4, bend rods to holes in the block. Numbers don't lie. I have a very tight connection with Mazda. Mazda is branding all cars that come in with blown motors and no warranty. There is a master list that is accessable at any Mazda dealership of cars branded with this. If any mods are on the car when they arrive, they will refuse the warranty work.

You're trying to tell me that over 10% of all Mazdaspeeds have blown their motor?

Sorry dude, your 'tight connection' is blatantly false.
 
zzooomm said:
I did mine myself so I have no Idea, I have a shop in Arizona, but it only took 2 hours to pull the motor, one day to rebuild it and one day to stab it back into the car. It took 14 weeks to get the rods and pistons. I also did a turbo upgrade at the same time and exturnally wastegated the stock manifold. It fired the first try. You could save alot of money pulling and stabbing the motor yourself. It cost me $400.00 to have the valves fixed and the head ported and polished, and $100 to have the crank polished.
Whre did you get you froged internals?
 
jersey_emt said:
The computer does not control or monitor boost in any way.



You're trying to tell me that over 10% of all Mazdaspeeds have blown their motor?

Sorry dude, your 'tight connection' is blatantly false.
Yeah, no s*** I have 48k miles almost all of it at 12-16PSI on 93 octane with sweet, sweet reliability. OK the bushings have gone twice and the exhaust broke once but it was all fixed under warranty :)
 
Last edited:
zzooomm said:
They look for the glue line to be broken on the tee where it goes to the wastegate. They can also pull the amounto of boost that the car is running from the computer, so always clear the computer before taking it to mazda.
My dealer replaced all the turbo hoses for me from the waste gate all the way up past the T. Those sorry stock lines were pure s***! They cracked all to **** on their own.
 
Last edited:
Don't raise the boost until you change your exhaust!! Our stock exhuast is too restrictive. I learned the hard way!
 
hello2000 said:
Don't raise the boost until you change your exhaust!! Our stock exhuast is too restrictive. I learned the hard way!
Which size would be best 2.5 or 3"? I'm gonna be upgrading soon and was afraid 3" would be over kill. My bad... jacked the thread
 
Last edited:
hello2000 said:
Don't raise the boost until you change your exhaust!! Our stock exhuast is too restrictive. I learned the hard way!
Well 46,000 miles ago I raised it to 12PSI...all else is stock.
 
ChiMSP said:
Which size would be best 2.5 or 3"? I'm gonna be upgrading soon and was afraid 3" would be over kill. My bad... jacked the thread

The bigger the better. The biggest that can reasonably fit under our cars is 3" exhaust piping, and that is plenty big for anything you can throw at the motor. It will also free up your top end considerably and let your turbo breathe easier.
 
(mswerd)

MSPinVA said:
The bigger the better. The biggest that can reasonably fit under our cars is 3" exhaust piping, and that is plenty big for anything you can throw at the motor. It will also free up your top end considerably and let your turbo breathe easier.

I raise mine to 12PSI too and I have a FMIC and a CAI--Which helps the engine, not hurt it. The reason it slung a rod was because of backpressure.

yashooa said:
Well 46,000 miles ago I raised it to 12PSI...all else is stock.
 
Back