two air sensors????

hondajunkie01

Member
:
03 protege5
ok so i have a p5 and im getting ready to turbo ...i seen this pic and it confused me so much....when u go turbo do u need to run two air sensors or what....but then i found a pic with just one WHAT DO I DO????

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You do not need to run with two sensors, I'm willing to bet money on the fact that that second sensor on the right isn't connected. In fact, you can see that the plug is missing, it's a placeholder, just there to make the intake connect.


Look for the gray plug.
 
There has been debate about running the MAF before and after the BOV also. I think 1 is enough lol.
 
lol, the second pic is my engine bay and damn, its old!

if you want a BOV, you have two options:

1) Keep the MAF in the same location. Add a bung to the intercooler piping and run a bpv along with the BOV. (dual setup)

2) Relocate the MAF before the throttle body.


YOU WILL NEVER NEED TWO MAFs as pictured in the first link you posted. Maybe the guy had a spare MAF and wanted to compare how the car ran with the two different setups, i dno...
 
lol, the second pic is my engine bay and damn, its old!

if you want a BOV, you have two options:

1) Keep the MAF in the same location. Add a bung to the intercooler piping and run a bpv along with the BOV. (dual setup)

2) Relocate the MAF before the throttle body.


YOU WILL NEVER NEED TWO MAFs as pictured in the first link you posted. Maybe the guy had a spare MAF and wanted to compare how the car ran with the two different setups, i dno...



ok now im super confused(braindead) haha....soo what is a bpv?is that the stock release valve?

also the the second one;

say i run the maf before the throttle body,i would run the bov before that right (like where the hot side goes into the intercooler,or where the cold side come out of the intercooler



OK now last thing ....im getting ready to start turbo boosting,what is the best method????
 
Well, you will need a turbo kit/setup (headbang) Turbo, MSP exhaust manifold, s-pipe, oil return line in the back of your engine block, and you mentioned that you are not going to go with the SMIC, so you will need a FMIC, the piping, clamps, couplers; a BOV, BPV if you are going dual setup, you can still use the P5 radiator, a boost controller, a MSP ecu, some type of EMS (Split Second, Unichip, or a standalone), a wideband, a forged engine (depending on what you are planning to boost).. I think that's all. Just mainly depends on your power/boost goals as to what you really need. With a FMIC, you are going to have some lag if you are not boosting that much, but then if you are going to boost a lot, you will need to have a forged engine to support it unless you want to join the Zoom Zoom Boom club.

OK now last thing ....im getting ready to start turbo boosting,what is the best method????
 
The BPV is the thing that's going to keep you from stalling if you have a bov on the cold side. If you run a dual setup, this will help with stalling while being able to have your bov "vent to atmosphere" aka make that cool noise. This is how you would set up your cold pipe with the BOV. You want to have the MAF about 8-12 inches from the throttle body to prevent turbulence or a wrong reading, and I believe the BOV is about 6 inches down from that. I have my FMIC set up where my bov is on my hot side right after the turbo. It's just easier that way and I'm not using the BPV at all.

<throttle body>------------<MAF>---------<BOV>----------<intercooler cold side>

ok now im super confused(braindead) haha....soo what is a bpv?is that the stock release valve?

also the the second one;

say i run the maf before the throttle body,i would run the bov before that right (like where the hot side goes into the intercooler,or where the cold side come out of the intercooler
 
The BPV is the thing that's going to keep you from stalling if you have a bov on the cold side. If you run a dual setup, this will help with stalling while being able to have your bov "vent to atmosphere" aka make that cool noise. This is how you would set up your cold pipe with the BOV. You want to have the MAF about 8-12 inches from the throttle body to prevent turbulence or a wrong reading, and I believe the BOV is about 6 inches down from that. I have my FMIC set up where my bov is on my hot side right after the turbo. It's just easier that way and I'm not using the BPV at all.

<throttle body>------------<MAF>---------<BOV>----------<intercooler cold side>

ok soo on ur set up ur running ur maf 8-12 inches from ur throttle body and ur bov right after the turbo right?are u throwing a cel or anything?
Are u running a vented or none vented bov

so for my setup im going to run a arit to water intercooler setup,can i do the same thing as urset up
 
also nobody explained what a bpv is??
A bypass valve (BPV, also known as a diverter valve) is very similar to a blow-off valve (BOV). Both relieve pressure inside the intake pipes when the throttle is quickly released to avoid compressor surge (in simplest form, air going back out the turbo inlet). The difference between the two is that a diverter or bypass valve redirects the air back into the intake pipe before the turbo whereas the blow-off valve simply vents the air to the atmosphere. Typically, bypass valves are used in MAF-equiped cars as most times the MAF is placed before the turbo. If a BOV were used with this setup it would be venting air that has already been read by the MAF and the proper amount of fuel has been added by the ECU. This causes an overly rich condition during shifts which can lead to stalling. BPVs alleviate this problem by recirculating the pressurized air into the intake pipe before the turbo but after the MAF so no air is lost. To run a BOV without stalling people traditionally use one of two methods. The first, called the dual-method consists of leaving the MAF in the stock location and running either the stock or an aftermarket BPV in the stock location while also running a BOV on the cold side (post-intercooler) piping. The other method, which I personally am using is referred to as relocating the MAF. As it's name implies this consists of placing the MAF on the cold side of the piping and placing the BOV some distance in front of it (upstream). People quote conventions as to how far the MAF needs to be away from the throttle body or how far the BOV needs to be from the MAF but in actuality, as long as they aren't right on top of each other everything will be fine. My BOV is about 6 inches in front of my MAF and the MAF is maybe 8 inches in front of the throttle body.

Also, not trying to be a dick, but how can you be making cars faster since 1997 when you don't even know what a BPV is? Even if everything you did was all-motor you would still understand the workings of forced induction.
 
Also, not trying to be a dick, but how can you be making cars faster since 1997 when you don't even know what a BPV is? Even if everything you did was all-motor you would still understand the workings of forced induction.

turbo a honda is 150X different then mazdas....and since 1997 was kinda a joke...
and if u read my post above it says "thats the stock release valve right"


i understand forced induction very well,but im still making payments on my car so im just making sure i know everything i need to know about these cars before i start putting a ticking time bomb onto my daily driver

i work my ass for my money so im making sure i dont mess anything up
 
turbo a honda is 150X different then mazdas....and since 1997 was kinda a joke...
and if u read my post above it says "thats the stock release valve right"


i understand forced induction very well,but im still making payments on my car so im just making sure i know everything i need to know about these cars before i start putting a ticking time bomb onto my daily driver

i work my ass for my money so im making sure i dont mess anything up

what are your goals for the car?
 

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