it is run from the front door speaker. i believe two wires go to the the front door speaker from the radio, and two wires leave for the tweeter. haven't looked myself, but from the manuals it looks like there is no special wiring or crossovers between the door speaker and tweeter. in theory you should be able to splice into this line at the door speaker connector on the driver side. inspect the passenger side first!
Tweeters - Install Question
- Thread starter avera01
- Start date
Knowing this is an ancient thread, but I've taken the drivers door panel off and the tweeter cable is nowhere to be found. Not part of the harness at all. So strange, just like previous comments, my passenger wire was plugged into the Sport's pod. Easy switch to a Touring pod with tweeter. Not sure what to do now. Run wires from door woofer?
Don’t pay $120 for crossovers? Are you saying I should pay more? Rather than making a judgment call based on price, what specs should I be looking for in a crossover? I’ve been browsing component speakers to replace what’s in the doors, the ones I’ve been looking at are between $190 and $250. There’s an infinity I like the sound of.
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
In the wife's Mazda, I put in some Dayton Audio ND25FN-4's. They fit almost perfectly in the factory locations. A small dab of glue from a hot glue gun holds them in perfectly.
Only $15 each, and for that tiny bit of money, they sound damned good. In her van, they are running active, so they get their own dedicated amplifier channels. The crossover I'm using is the Dayton Audio DSP-408 digital signal processor. If you're not running active, you could easily get away with whatever crossover your tweeters come with, or failing that, a simple $2 cap would suffice. If running a cap as a crossover, set the point pretty high, say 5,000Hz, because a cap only has a roll off of 6dB per octave. (You can look up what that means if you're not sure. Crossover theory is a rabbit hole that is way beyond the scope of this post.)
For what it's worth, her mids are Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" drivers. They sound absolutely wonderful! Far better than what their low price would have you belive. They fit in her 6x8 factory openings using a 6x8-6.5" adapter plate. I had to slightly modify the edge of the basket by trimming it a tiny bit so the door panel would go back on. Your mileage may vary.
Before that I had some Dayton DC160-4's, but I had the crossover set wrong, and the wife got a little crazy with the Missy Elliot, and one of them went poof! The DC's fit with no modification at all, and sounded pretty damned good, too. Not going to lie, the RS's do sound better, but honestly, both are a steal at the prices they are.
pic: Dayton tweeter vs factory junker in the door sail panel cover
Only $15 each, and for that tiny bit of money, they sound damned good. In her van, they are running active, so they get their own dedicated amplifier channels. The crossover I'm using is the Dayton Audio DSP-408 digital signal processor. If you're not running active, you could easily get away with whatever crossover your tweeters come with, or failing that, a simple $2 cap would suffice. If running a cap as a crossover, set the point pretty high, say 5,000Hz, because a cap only has a roll off of 6dB per octave. (You can look up what that means if you're not sure. Crossover theory is a rabbit hole that is way beyond the scope of this post.)
For what it's worth, her mids are Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" drivers. They sound absolutely wonderful! Far better than what their low price would have you belive. They fit in her 6x8 factory openings using a 6x8-6.5" adapter plate. I had to slightly modify the edge of the basket by trimming it a tiny bit so the door panel would go back on. Your mileage may vary.
Before that I had some Dayton DC160-4's, but I had the crossover set wrong, and the wife got a little crazy with the Missy Elliot, and one of them went poof! The DC's fit with no modification at all, and sounded pretty damned good, too. Not going to lie, the RS's do sound better, but honestly, both are a steal at the prices they are.
pic: Dayton tweeter vs factory junker in the door sail panel cover
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Thanks for the breakdown!
I can also confirm the wiring is there on the passenger side but not the driver side. It doesn't seem cost effective to make two harnesses, especially when that is the only difference. All that is missing is the jumper from the main speaker connector up to the tweeter. Hardly worth deleting since the process of making two harnesses costs more than the connector and wire.
If you have a self service salvage yard nearby, see if they have a Mazda 2 Touring and simply cut off the main connector with a few inches of the wire pair from the amp. Then unwrap the harness to free the jumper that goes to the tweeter. Splice the main wires from the amp by matching the colors and plug the two connectors in and you'll be good to go.
Better yet, I released the individual wires from the center two locations in the plugs and swapped the one with the tweeter pigtail for the original without. I taped the pigtail to the bundle up to the tweeter and plugged it in. It works perfectly and sounds much better with actual highs, even with the original paper speakers.
If you have a self service salvage yard nearby, see if they have a Mazda 2 Touring and simply cut off the main connector with a few inches of the wire pair from the amp. Then unwrap the harness to free the jumper that goes to the tweeter. Splice the main wires from the amp by matching the colors and plug the two connectors in and you'll be good to go.
Better yet, I released the individual wires from the center two locations in the plugs and swapped the one with the tweeter pigtail for the original without. I taped the pigtail to the bundle up to the tweeter and plugged it in. It works perfectly and sounds much better with actual highs, even with the original paper speakers.
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