Transmission Failure After Fluid Change?

[JGLOVER89]

Like many here I took the dealer's word for it an have not changed the "lifetime" transmission fluid in my 2016 CX-5 GT. I'm at 104K and have decided I want to start doing the right thing and start changing the fluid. I have heard that if you don't do it by 80K you might end up with issues if you change it. My dealer makes you sign a waiver if you have them do a fluid change. Has anyone heard of a failure that has occurred as a result of doing a fluid change at just over 100K? If you know of an actual SkyActive transmission failure after a fluid change I'd like to hear about it.

My plan is to take it cautiously and do a simple drain and fill, then drive it a few thousand miles to see if anything goes wrong. Then probably do another drain and fill, then a few thousand more miles drain and fill, replace the filter and clean the magnet. 3 steps spaced out by some miles. From then on I'll probably just drain and fill every 30K for good measure. I figure leaving some old fluid in the system will be less of a shock to the transmission. Let me know if this seems like a reasonable (if overly cautious) approach. For my Honda's I have always done a 3x drain and fill all at one time, not knowing what previous owners may have done. It never occurred to be the transmission might fail.

 

[ceric]

Transmission failure after ATF change is usually due to flushing the AT.
Your plan sounds good to me. Just make sure they do drain-n-refill only (no flushing), and use correct fluid. Ask them to clean the pan and don't over/under fill fluid.

 

[sinistriel@]

I have never seen a transmission fail from doing a service if it is done correctly, I have seen it more than once with the wrong fluid being used, fluid being underfilled or being severely overfilled, not securing a filter so the pump cavitates and pulls air in. I hate to say it but many shops are hesitant in performing a service is due to the customer many times feeling a transmission act up not saying anything, the shop changes the fluid and then being blamed for the failure the transmission was already experiencing.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Transmission failure after ATF change is usually due to flushing the AT.
Your plan sounds good to me. Just make sure they do drain-n-refill only (no flushing), and use correct fluid. Ask them to clean the pan and don't over/under fill fluid.

Without a special custom adapter, a flush can't be done on the SkyActive trans.

My bet is that the dealership doesn't have said adapter.

 

[Mazdiod2]

Like many here I took the dealer's word for it an have not changed the "lifetime" transmission fluid in my 2016 CX-5 GT. I'm at 104K and have decided I want to start doing

My plan is to take it cautiously and do a simple drain and fill, then drive it a few thousand miles to see if anything goes wrong. Then probably do another drain and fill, then a few thousand more miles drain and fill, replace the filter and clean the magnet. 3 steps spaced out by some miles. From then on I'll probably just drain and fill every 30K for good measure. I figure leaving some old fluid in the system will be less of a shock to the transmission. Let me know if this seems like a reasonable (if overly cautious) approach. For my Honda's I have always done a 3x drain and fill all at one time, not knowing what previous owners may have done. It never occurred to be the transmission might fail.

There are many threads on fluid changes, it might be good to check them out. I think this 3X change is the way it's done because you can only drain part of the fluid.

 

[JGLOVER89]

Transmission failure after ATF change is usually due to flushing the AT.
Your plan sounds good to me. Just make sure they do drain-n-refill only (no flushing), and use correct fluid. Ask them to clean the pan and don't over/under

There are many threads on fluid changes, it might be good to check them out. I think this 3X change is the way it's done because you can only drain part of the fluid.

I’ve read most of the other posts and will be doing the work myself. My question is really about figuring the odds of causing a problem by changing the fluid at all at the mileage I’m at. Flushing the fluid has never really been a consideration.

 

[AL Cx5]

I’ve read most of the other posts and will be doing the work myself. My question is really about figuring the odds of causing a problem by changing the fluid at all at the mileage I’m at. Flushing the fluid has never really been a consideration.

You are more likely to have a trans failure IF you don't change the ATF and filter. The trans filter has been collecting clutch and other material for the past +100k mi. It is restricting ATF flow. The parts may not getting proper lubrication and are running hotter. Circulating contaminated fluid is grinding away at bearings/shafts/gears and seals....Mazda is WRONG, the ATF and filter need to be changed.

The trans is not perfectly sealed. Some dust enters the case through the trans vent, input and output shafts that wears bearings, shafts and seals. The trans filter doesn't filter perfectly, about to 50 microns, which is pretty good.

Have you pulled a sample or the trans dip stick to look/smell the fluid? You might send a sample for analysis. This may give you some good info for $20 to $30.

I use to change the ATF on my Accord every oil change/10K mi. Honda recommends to change ATF every 30k mi, three times. Honda's trans filter is external and I changed it at 100k mi. Honda does not recommend changing the trans filter!! The trans shifted smoother after changing this filter.

At 11K, I'll change the ATF. Again at 22k and change the ATF/filter at 33k mi. I have a tuned ECU that added 60 HP on our Turbo. For this reason, I'll change the ATF more often. Change the oil/filter every 5500 mi too.

After changing the ATF on the Honda and my truck, I can feel the trans shifts smoother/quicker. Could be less pressure drop across the filter.

At some point, I might add an external trans filter with magnet for extra protection. I did this on my diesel truck. It's rated for 25 microns. I haven't found a filtration spec on Mazda trans. Most are between 40 and 100 microns.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[JGLOVER89]

You are more likely to have a trans failure IF you don't change the ATF and filter. The trans filter has been collecting clutch and other material for the past +100k mi. It is restricting ATF flow. The parts may not getting proper lubrication and are running hotter. Circulating contaminated fluid is grinding away at bearings/shafts/gears and seals....Mazda is WRONG, the ATF and filter need to be changed.

The trans is not perfectly sealed. Some dust enters the case through the trans vent, input and output shafts that wears bearings, shafts and seals. The trans filter doesn't filter perfectly, about to 15 microns, which is pretty good.

Have you pulled a sample or the trans dip stick to look/smell the fluid? You might send a sample for analysis. This may give you some good info for $20 to $30.

I use to change the ATF on my Accord every oil change/10K mi. Honda recommends to change ATF every 30k mi, three times. Honda's trans filter is external and I changed it at 100k mi. Honda does not recommend changing the trans filter!! The trans shifted smoother after changing this filter.

At 11K, I'll change the ATF. Again at 22k and change the ATF/filter at 33k mi. I have a tuned ECU that added 60 HP on our Turbo. For this reason, I'll change the ATF more often. Change the oil/filter every 5500 mi too.

After changing the ATF on the Honda and my truck, I can feel the trans shifts smoother/quicker. Could be less pressure drop across the filter.

At some point, I might add an external trans filter with magnet for extra protection. I did this on my diesel truck. It's rated for 25 microns. I haven't found a filtration spec on Mazda trans. Most are between 40 and 100 microns.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I checked the fluid level and it smelled fine. Not burnt, just not blue anymore. Trans shifts fine. Would you ultimately recommend doing the 3x drain and fill at the same time with filter replacement on the third fill, or in stages a few thousand mile apart? Does it matter when I do the filter swap in the sequence?

 

[Lazy2.5]

Would you recommend doing the 3x drain and fill at the same time with filter replacement on the third fill? Or in stages a few thousand mile apart?

Whether you do the drain and fills separately or together makes little difference. You should do the filter first.

Does it matter when I do the filter swap in the sequence?

Logically, you would want to put a new filter (It's actually a strainer,) making sure the bottom of the pan and magnet is clean of debris before you start doing drain and fills.

Also, the fluid does not have to be perfectly clear. Your transmission will do just fine with only the pan drop, filter change (Which of course will include 1x drain/fill.)

While you do need to drop your pan, once that is done, I don't think doing additional drain/fills would be necessary.

My filter was done for the first time at 100k. I've had no transmission issues, ever.

 

[AL Cx5]

X2 what @Lazy2.5 is saying. You could do the 2nd and 3rd change at the next oil changes.

If it's not blue, then it maybe showing contamination from clutch material. That means clutch and other material is being circulated through the trans. Having the ATF analyzed might make you a believer in the value of servicing your trans.

Having a fresh filter IS important with new ATF.

Shifting FINE is somewhat vague and generic. My Honda and 2500 Dodge ram was shifting just fine before changing ATF/filter. After changing ATF/Filter in both, they shifted super fine.

You may not be able to feel any difference. My wife couldn't tell a difference in the Honda. It's normally to late if one waits until it doesn't shift "fine" and then service.

Erroring on changing ATF/Filter before it's time is a best practice. Engines and trans are expensive and lose of down time. It makes fluids and filters look cheap.

AND with all that said, I've only had trans issues from abuse. In my 1,100 HP drag race car, launching off of a trans brake at 3600 RPM is hard on stuff. I have a back up trans and learned how to rebuild this trans.

I killed my 2500 truck trans at 230K mi doing several WOTs testing mods we were making and running the engine tune on KILL. I modified a Hemi engine on a DD that made way more torque than a stock trans specs and killed it.

So fresh fluids/filters will not overcome abuse. I don't abuse our CX 5 and it will have fresh fluids just the same.

 

[yrwei52]

Like many here I took the dealer's word for it an have not changed the "lifetime" transmission fluid in my 2016 CX-5 GT. I'm at 104K and have decided I want to start doing the right thing and start changing the fluid. I have heard that if you don't do it by 80K you might end up with issues if you change it. My dealer makes you sign a waiver if you have them do a fluid change. Has anyone heard of a failure that has occurred as a result of doing a fluid change at just over 100K? If you know of an actual SkyActive transmission failure after a fluid change I'd like to hear about it.

My plan is to take it cautiously and do a simple drain and fill, then drive it a few thousand miles to see if anything goes wrong. Then probably do another drain and fill, then a few thousand more miles drain and fill, replace the filter and clean the magnet. 3 steps spaced out by some miles. From then on I'll probably just drain and fill every 30K for good measure. I figure leaving some old fluid in the system will be less of a shock to the transmission. Let me know if this seems like a reasonable (if overly cautious) approach. For my Honda's I have always done a 3x drain and fill all at one time, not knowing what previous owners may have done. It never occurred to be the transmission might fail.

Yes your plan, doing the ATF drain-&-fill 3 time, is sound to me, but I may wait only several hundred miles in between. Here’s Mazda’s official ATF change procedure found in a torque converter replacement TSB for ATF being contaminated by iron powder on the cylinder deactivation equipped automatic transaxle due to excessive wearing of the lock up clutch in the torque converter:

“⋯
5. Install the automatic transaxle according to the instruction on MGSS, including refilling with ATF and performing the Initial Learning.
NOTE:
• DO NOT replace the ATF drain plug gasket at this time. The A/T will be drained and refilled 2 more times. Replace the gasket on the last refill.
• For 2023-2024 Mazda3 and CX-30 and 2024 CX-5, ATF A7 is used. Verify according to the designation on the A/ T dipstick.
6. Drive the vehicle at 20 mph for 3 minutes to agitate the ATF in the torque converter, oil passage, and differential chamber that does not come out of the oil pan drain to evenly mix old and new ATF.
• If actual driving is difficult, perform the drive with the vehicle lifted up on a 2-post lift and drive at 20 mph for 3 minutes.
NOTE: In the case of a 4WD vehicle, warning lights may turn on when the vehicle is lifted up and driven, but this is not a malfunction. The fault code can be cleared after completing the work.
7. Replace the automatic transaxle fluid (ATF) with new ATF according to the instructions on MGSS. NOTE: Replace the ATF drain plug gasket after the last refill (2nd time).”

TSB No.: 05-005/23 Chirp Noise from Automatic Transaxle on 3-4 Upshift

Things missing from the TSB procedure are cleaning up the oil pan and magnetic which will have plenty of metal debris, and the ATF filter cartridge change.

Since you’re going to DIY on ATF change, here’s an excellent long tread by @Digbicks1234 to read:

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

And here is an example that @PatrickGSR94 changed his ATF by 3X drain-&-fill at 113K miles with no issues and provided his excellent ATF change experience:

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

And:

Transmission Fluid Change at 110,000 Miles? 2014 AWD CX-5