To All Running 9-10 PSI

Sorry to be off the topic here, MSPDave, is your Magnus exhaust the turbo back one? Is it working out well for you, and how much did you pay for it shipped to your door?

Thanks,
Matt
 
Yes, Turbo back. 1 cat 1 muffler. 3" mandrel. I live in Canada so my pricing is different. Considering the fact I live near Magnus, shipping was no issue.

How does it work? I let the out of control wheel spin in 2nd gear do all the talking! Roll on 2nd and pin it and the tires just let go.

The Downpipe helps hold peak boost longer too!

Remember the rants and raves on how the SRT-4 sounded from factory?

My car sounds 500 times better and meaner! It is much louder than stock though!

www.magnusmotorsports.com

1-905-264-1989

Ask for Seann Pegg.

Ask him how many Tattoos he has?
 
Sixmil said:
Why would you run copper over platinum? And what does changing the heat range do for you?

Thanks,

Six

This helps to fend off detonation, and platinum tends to flake off with serious performance I hear. Not good.
 
MSPDAVE125 said:
UnWound: What is the color you used to match the Pillar?

Easy Yes/ No ?

Good Match?

the match is excellent (just a tad more shiny, not noticeable thou) and it was just a can of vinyl spray paint

i ordered vinyl paint from this website:
SEM light titanium 15353
row 7 third from the left. it is $6.13+s/h.

here is a pic:
/members/unwound/0037_r1.jpg
 
Sixmil said:
Why would you run copper over platinum? And what does changing the heat range do for you?

Thanks,

Six

"Colder plugs will help prevent detonation because they run cooler at the tip (transfer more heat to the head) and do not pre-ignite as easily. The stock Platinums are even worse since they are 1) a hotter plug and 2) platinum tends to get extremely hot at the tip and glow which will cause pre ignition issues." JoeP.

That's a quote from Joe in another thread.
 
unwound said:


the match is excellent (just a tad more shiny, not noticeable thou) and it was just a can of vinyl spray paint

i ordered vinyl paint from this website:
SEM light titanium 15353
row 7 third from the left. it is $6.13+s/h.


I'll have mine done today, it was professionally painted to match so we'll see what it looks like, but I'm running the exact same gauges as you.

Just out of curiosity, when your car is at idle, what does your vaccume read for your car, I just kinda want to compare against mine as a referrence point?
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:


"Colder plugs will help prevent detonation because they run cooler at the tip (transfer more heat to the head) and do not pre-ignite as easily. The stock Platinums are even worse since they are 1) a hotter plug and 2) platinum tends to get extremely hot at the tip and glow which will cause pre ignition issues." JoeP.

That's a quote from Joe in another thread.


THANKS!

-Six
 
At 10 psi....

Well; for now; I'm leaving my stock plugs in place. All is good. Dreamy, even.
 
MSPDAVE125 said:
The PCV Valve was introduced into normal production on passenger cars in 1963 as a part of a Governmental push to reduce exhaust emissions from passenger cars. It's job is to relieve positive air pressure from the crank case, pull fumes from the crank case to be re-burned, and to keep fresh air flowing inside the engine.

As Mazda never intended for this engine to see boost. We are now experiencing ALL the side effects of a "bolt-on" turbo kit.
The stock PCV valve is meant to operate under N/A conditions meaning it will relieve pressure just fine at a certain CFM. Now introduce more CFM and this valve will experience Corrosion and "blow-by"(relative term). Oil is moving much faster (higher) and a gases are much hotter. This will lower the life of the valve by clogging and corrosion. In turn oil and other gummy formations will find their way through this valve and onto the valve cover. (It is very easy to see). The 323 GTX was a "true" factory turbo car. They engineered the parts to accomodate the extra air and temperatures. Thus the fact that my newly acquired PCV valve is working just fine and I have once again replaced an OEM MazdaSpeed part to make tha car more reliable.

There are many more parts I have replaced and I will continue to replace anything that I see as needing replacement.

I will NOT use my warranty for any of this as none of it is covered.
Mazda will only replace with the same part. Which I find to be completely useless.

Sorry for the lengthy blah blah blah!!!


And how much does this thing cost at the dealer?? 100 bucks?
 
Does anyone have a pic of where the PCV valve is located, and is it something that is easy to replace?
 
Wesman said:
MazdaspeedZOOM
I am pulling 20psi of vacuum at idle, 18 with the fan on.
Same gauge, same mounting point.

See that's weird cause I only pull about 16-18 vaccume, hmmm wonder I'll have to take a look at all my fittings and make sure everything is clear. And yes I have the exact same gauge and it's in the exact same mounting point. I'll post pics soon as it's all done now.
 
Thank you guys for all of the replies. As some of you know, I have not been to happy with my car (thus the "for sale" at the bottom of my sig), that is why I am asking about a boost upgrade. I hope that this will change my mind about my Mazdaspeed (which I do this is a great car and would like to keep, seeing how it is all paid off).

That is why I'm asking about people who have pushed the wick up to 7-10PSI on a stock engine. All I want to do is increase the boost and buy colder plugs. I'm not planning on buying any type of fuel upgrade from Joe (no flame) because I'm going to wait for Mazda to "correctly" fix the problem via proper (read: proper) ECU tuning.

So my question is: To all of the folks who are running 7-10PSI Without any type of engine upgrade (bone stock) what have been your respective experiances with the increase in boost. Has you engine temp. gone up, do you have more lag, slower spool, drastically reduced gas milage. Do you change your oil more often, is there any other problems that have sprouted because of the increase in boost? Anything would help.

Thank you all very much and I hope to stay with the MSP community.
 
increasing the boost will void your entire drivetrain warranty. I personnally like having my warranty so I am only buying a good exhaust (about 20 HP) and a CAI. With those 2 mods the car should have close to 200 HP and 200 tq.
 
Wesman said:
MazdaspeedZOOM
I am pulling 20psi of vacuum at idle, 18 with the fan on.
Same gauge, same mounting point.

me too. sometimes it will drop just below 20Hg but it is usually after a hard run. it is normal.
 
nmaino said:
Thank you guys for all of the replies. As some of you know, I have not been to happy with my car (thus the "for sale" at the bottom of my sig), that is why I am asking about a boost upgrade. I hope that this will change my mind about my Mazdaspeed (which I do this is a great car and would like to keep, seeing how it is all paid off).

That is why I'm asking about people who have pushed the wick up to 7-10PSI on a stock engine. All I want to do is increase the boost and buy colder plugs. I'm not planning on buying any type of fuel upgrade from Joe (no flame) because I'm going to wait for Mazda to "correctly" fix the problem via proper (read: proper) ECU tuning.

So my question is: To all of the folks who are running 7-10PSI Without any type of engine upgrade (bone stock) what have been your respective experiances with the increase in boost. Has you engine temp. gone up, do you have more lag, slower spool, drastically reduced gas milage. Do you change your oil more often, is there any other problems that have sprouted because of the increase in boost? Anything would help.

Thank you all very much and I hope to stay with the MSP community.

Ok I have put a few thousand miles on my car (I am at 16k now since Feb 23) while running 12 PSI. I have been to West Texas and back 2 times in the 100+ degree heat with the AC on, 3 kids, my wife and all our gear in the trunk. So far my car has performed flawlessly. I do know to bring a can of Octane boost next time as West Texans think 91 octane is "Super" unleaded. I drove the car at 80MPH almost the whole way and it is a 7 hour trip for me. Once I was there and the fam was safely tucked away at the in-laws I took my car out for some Vericom runs. My car topped out at 135MPH, hit the fuel cut, which sucks because it was still pulling hard, and did the ole 0-60 times in high 5 sec range with MASSIVE wheel spin. I know the low 14's are in there if only you could hook this car up. It is a damn fun ride though. Long and short is 10-12 PSI is a much "Speedy-er" MazdaSpeed.
Nmanio you look just like my cousin who built my house for me.
Its freaky dude.
Oh for you vacuum dudes I pull 21 inches of vacuum at idle with the AC off and 20 inches at idle with the AC on.

I get over 36 MPG now during the week with just me in the car and shifting 1,3,5. I get about 436-440 miles out of 12 gallons.
For some reason my milage went up a bit under higher boost. I do drive very conservatively during the week and run about 100+ miles a day. I ease up to 60MPH and skip gears.
 
Last edited:
b**** please.

03SOMSP said:
increasing the boost will void your entire drivetrain warranty. I personnally like having my warranty so I am only buying a good exhaust (about 20 HP) and a CAI. With those 2 mods the car should have close to 200 HP and 200 tq.

Well a good MBC is easily removed and completely undetectable. If they try to give me any s*** then they will need Gandalf the Gray to kazam my lawyer's foot out of the dealer's ass. Believe me they will have this mother ****** back in no uncertain terms if they try to **** me on my warranty. I know exactly how these ***** operate and will go to great lengths to ensure that no trace of any mod is left behind and they will fix my car. So far it doesnt seem to be an issue and I don't beat on my car and I do impeccable maintenance with all my records in order so hopefully it never will be.
 

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