Timing belt replacement cost and cobin air filter

Haha, he sure did. Then it comes the time when you actually get the tools out and realize, all the nuts and bolts are difficult to get to, they are tighten like there's no tomorrow... etc, etc., THAT will make an hour job turns into days and nights.
 
chuyler1 said:
You make it sound so easy.

NEPOC timing belt install day......


when is the suggested mileage to replace the belt? 60K?

i waiting till 100K till i think about it......

might be half way there the end of this weekend.
lots of driving ahead for my PR5!
 
I was PMed about how to time the Protege today. Here is the reply, I just posted it here as well so you all could refer to it as well.

GEAR%20-%20(4).jpg


You have to make sure that all three timing marks line up. There is one on the crank pulley as well. There should be a series of lines and numbers on a raised wedge of plastic near the bottom of the motor, it might be dificult to see as you have to look down where the mess of belts are. There is a dash line betwen the two belts on the crank pulley. Use you hand or a long wrench that is... s***, I think it's like a 19 or 22mm, it's rather large.

Use the crank pulley to rotate the engine so the marks line up on the zero. That is called "Top Dead Center" or TDC. That means that the #1 Piston is at the Top of the stroke.

Next, you have to make sure that the cam gears are timed properly. You notice that there are "L" shaped holes on the inside of the gear. These are for the dowel pins on the cams. When the crank is at TDC, both of the Dowel Pins on the cams are supposed to be at the top, like 12:00 position. Next, make sure that the gear are on properly.

The left gear on the intake side should have the dowel pin in the groove that would make a "J" shape, top down to left so the mark near the "I" on the stock gear is facing the other gear.

The other gear (Ex) makes a "L" shape, from top to right so the mark near the "E" faces the intake gear.

The Belt should naturally want to go on with everything lined up like this.

Make sure the tensioner spring was put on corectly or it would just jump a tooth and go out of timing.

It's important to line everything up because the cam position sensor reads those stupid magnets that are attached to the gear to decide uppon timing and spark and fuel delivery... Kinna important functions that could mess s*** up.



Reference: http://protege5.ugly.net/

01-10 Mechanical (FS)

01-10b8 Timing Belt
 
no way does it cost $500 to change a timing belt. most dealers will do it under $300 with local shops for about $175-250. I got a coupon in my hand right now from my dealer, Marlin Mazda in Miami, $215 timing belt replacement including timing belt, labor. also "includes" inspection of water pump and other belts and cam and crank shaft seals.
 
YellowMP5 said:
no way does it cost $500 to change a timing belt. most dealers will do it under $300 with local shops for about $175-250. I got a coupon in my hand right now from my dealer, Marlin Mazda in Miami, $215 timing belt replacement including timing belt, labor. also "includes" inspection of water pump and other belts and cam and crank shaft seals.

in ocean mazda is $400 without coupon, but a private mechanic charged me $700... because he changed a non-faulty TS sensor, rotate tires, and tranny fluid (argh) (argh) (argh)
 
solid_snake said:
in ocean mazda is $400 without coupon, but a private mechanic charged me $700... because he changed a non-faulty TS sensor, rotate tires, and tranny fluid (argh) (argh) (argh)

not to thread jack, but why don't you come out to our meets at towers and by sawgrass mills mall. link in the sig.
 
YellowMP5 said:
not to thread jack, but why don't you come out to our meets at towers and by sawgrass mills mall. link in the sig.
nice, i will think about it, are tributes addmitted(sp?)?
 
peepsalot said:
...If an engine is an interference type, that means when the timing belt breaks, it is possible for the open valves and the top of the piston to occupy the same space at the same time, this is bad. If the timing belt is on right, the valve is never opened fully when the piston is at top dead center, but when it breaks so does your engine.
In a non-interference, it is impossible for the valve and piston to touch.


true story

the question still remains: does the MP5 have an interference engine or not? (attn)
 

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Ok so your attachment says we don't have to change our timing belts till 105K miles? I want to make sure because I've always been told and done them around 60K miles.
 
02MazPro5 said:
Ok so your attachment says we don't have to change our timing belts till 105 Kilometers? I want to make sure because I've always been told and done them around 60K miles.

Kilometers
 
yea i would get it done before 100 but u could wait a lil after 60 i would say, ill prolly wait till around late 70s to do mine, the wifes was done around 60 and it still had more time left in it.
 
manual says around 60K miles and im pretty sure the 2.0 FS is non interference. Ill do some research as ive been out of the game for a minute and ill update.
 
Manual says 105,000 mi (168,000km) Canada/US for replacement.

60,000 mi is for Inspection.

60,000 mi replacement is for Chile.

Hope this helps.
 
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