Thunder header or TSUDO ?

[Rac3rX]

Soo what Ive noticed so far...

She Pulls harder, alot more in the higher rpm's

while driving with the windows up I can her the exhaust gas going through the pipes under my feet

when she is idle I can hear popping mostly out of free flow muffler but from under the hood aswell

chatter from the valves is more distinct

Shes loud as hell when reved up

hitting the clutch during shifts causes a more distinct gurgle

Shes is as deep as before out of the tail pipe and CAI with alot more popping out of the exhaust, & Louder out of the headers but not as deep

She sounds fricken Mean altogether

 

[TheBryGuy]

Okay, I want you to know you're not alone. What I ended up doing is spending about an hour with a screw driver, bending the EGR piping. If you stick the screwdriver into the piping and get some torque on it, you should be able to bend it close enough to the right angle to screw the fitting onto the header. The other thing I would suggest trying is to screw the EGR fitting onto the header before anything is bolted up, THEN twist header into place. It'll go with enough patience.

 

[Rac3rX]

Okay, I want you to know you're not alone. What I ended up doing is spending about an hour with a screw driver, bending the EGR piping. If you stick the screwdriver into the piping and get some torque on it, you should be able to bend it close enough to the right angle to screw the fitting onto the header. The other thing I would suggest trying is to screw the EGR fitting onto the header before anything is bolted up, THEN twist header into place. It'll go with enough patience.

Thanks for the Help, I was so frustrated with it I was glad to get it capped so I can at-least drive arround town.

Im going to ask the Shop thats installing the Motor mounts next week if they can give it a shot.

Cant that pipe be removed and bent then re-installed, or does it have to be a bending fight from where she is?

 

[TheBryGuy]

Thanks for the Help, I was so frustrated with it I was glad to get it capped so I can at-least drive arround town.

Im going to ask the Shop thats installing the Motor mounts next week if they can give it a shot.

Cant that pipe be removed and bent then re-installed, or does it have to be a bending fight from where she is?

I looked at it when I was installing mine and it looks like it would be a pain to get to in order to remove it. I think using the screwdriver was a lot easier, it just took some time and a bit of finese.

 

[Rac3rX]

I looked at it when I was installing mine and it looks like it would be a pain to get to in order to remove it. I think using the screwdriver was a lot easier, it just took some time and a bit of finese.

Cool Ill let you guys know how it goes next week (Im really Not F-ing with it anymore, Id rather beat my knees with a hammer) Ill pass it off, hopefull its not to time consuming.

 

[Laser03pro]

Sad day for my ES well remember me saying I was going to remove the VTCS. Last night before I could finish my porting on the way home from work yeh well.... it spit a screw. Makes me so mad it couldnt wait another few weeks or so I was about to replace that damn thing. Now im waiting on the tow truck to take it to the dealer under warrenty car has 32k miles.

 

[Rac3rX]

Sad day for my ES well remember me saying I was going to remove the VTCS. Last night before I could finish my porting on the way home from work yeh well.... it spit a screw. Makes me so mad it couldnt wait another few weeks or so I was about to replace that damn thing. Now im waiting on the tow truck to take it to the dealer under warrenty car has 32k miles.

Dame, what happened? "it spit a screw" Im not sure what you mean, while Im pretty sure your talking about the Intake manifold.

I Just passed 36000 yesterday.

Good Luck with it.

 

[SNike05]

there is a problem in our intake where a screw comes lose. Its on the faq.

 

[Rac3rX]

there is a problem in our intake where a screw comes lose. Its on the faq.

Ahh yeah, I know that one, I just didnt make the conection. I though the car would still run, but just poorly.

 

[zentrandi]

Go thunder, if you can wait. I have an AWR all the single piece headers are a pain to put in because the radiator hoses get in the way. Easiest way to do it is to waste some radiator fluid and take the hose off the bottom and put the header through the bottom. I was in line for an OBX, but they are in BACK BACK BACK BACK order. And i've got nothing but bad vibes from tsudo in the forums. So i'd say in order of affordability go OBX, Thunder, then AWR.

I suggest AWR if you really want all the gains but it's a little costly. I got mine off ebay for 230 shipped, which is better than 500 plus shipping new...

good luck on your search

 

[Rac3rX]

I dont think AWR will give better gains then the OBX or Tsudo or the Thunder (4-2-1, Vs 4-1) 4-1 has better flow, there is NO arguing with that. There is one collector Vs 3.

EVERYWHERE you look in reguards to 4-1 Vs 4-2-1, 4-1 is the better option & they all say the same thing

4-2-1 = Better low to mid range

4-1 Better mid to high

There are exceptions especially V-tec engines that have laughable levels of low end torque and can really use the power there (and smoothing out the V-Tec transition)

4-1 is also Illegal in most places for street use, and 4-2-1 is not, ever wonder why??????

With our engine it will benifit more to have the power increase Mid to High, we got no issues with low end torque.

Can anybody PROVE that AWR gives the most gains? Didnt think so.

As for Fitment, The Tsudo I got has issues with the EGR Valve lining up, Ive caught word that Im not the only one, & The Headers WILL GO ON with adjustments made to the pipe (Bending her with a screw driver) Ill let you know how much of a pain it is when I get it done next week.

I actually Dropped the Original exhaust manifold through the bottomof the car,and Had NO issue getting the headers in (Minus the EGR) from the top with the fan and hoses all still there.

 

[Laser03pro]

I know this is a header thread but if your car is one of the cars for the recall on the vics screws I would take it in ASAP unless you alrdy have the manifold off and ready to replace it.

 

[Rac3rX]

When looking at the pic of the thunder header, It apears as if its going to have the same issues with the EGR pipe lining up.

Anybody got more Pics of it?

Im checking if Im on the recall list as we speak.

 

[Rac3rX]

I cant find the recall Vin numbers do you got them?

 

[Rac3rX]

I got the Vin List for people who get the noise while the engine warms up and Im on the list...

Check if you are...

01-004/03 2001-2003 Protege, 2002-2003 Protege5 - RATTLING NOISE AT 1000-3000 RPM COLD ENGINE
Note: This bulletin contains revised sections. Please update your records accordingly.

UPDATE NOTE
This bulletin supersedes 01-004/03, issued 4/14/03. The step 14 of 2003 Protege & Protege5 Reprogramming Instructions has been updated.
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2001-2003 Protege (2.0L FS only)

2002-2003 Protege5

DESCRIPTION
Some customers may experience an engine rattle noise under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temperatures below 65 C (149 F) and engine RPMs between 1000 and 2900 RPM.

The noise is the result of the intentional swirl effect that is generated when the Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) plates in the intake manifold are closed. Swirl accelerates the burn of the air/fuel mixture which reduces emissions when the engine is cold. The noise does not have a negative effect on the engine, and disappears as soon as coolant temperature reaches 65 C (149 F). There is a counter-measure to help reduce the noise in order to improve customer satisfaction.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using one of the following procedures:

REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify customer concern.

Check vehicle VIN range:

01-02 Protege

From VIN JM1BJ22**1*400001 to JM1BJ22**2*551281, go to STEP 3

From VIN JM1BJ22**2*551282 to JM1BJ22**2*641000, go to STEP 4

02 Protege5

From VIN JM1BJ24**2*440775 to JM1BJ24**2*551281, go to STEP 3

From VIN JM1BJ24**2*551282 to JM1BJ24**2*641000, go to STEP 4

03 Protege / 03 Protege5

From VIN JM1BJ2***3*100001 to JM1BJ2***3*143365, go to STEP 4


Replace the VTCS delay valve, then proceed to step 4.

Program the PCM using WDS (Version B22 or later), verify the correct calibration from the table below:

SPECIAL PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS FOR:

02 Protege & Protege5

Due to current WDS B24.* software issues, to reprogram 2002 model year vehicles to the required calibration, you will need to select 2001 MY in the WDS "Select Vehicle Specification" screen.

NOTE: If a 2002 vehicle was reprogrammed with the 2002 MY selected in the "Select Vehicle Specification" screen, it will not have the correct calibration and will need to be reprogrammed again using the special programming instructions noted above.


03 Protege & Protege5

For 2003 Protege & Protege5 with VIN RANGE: JM1BJ2***3*100001 to JM1BJ2***3*143365, proceed to 2003 Protege & Protege5 Reprogramming Instructions on the following pages.

Basically If your Step 4 They will Just have to replace the PCM using WDS & If your Step 3 they will have to Replace the VTCS delay valve before they replace the PCM using WDS.

Im Step 4

My Question

Now will the Headers Void this warrenty (After I get the EGR pipe lined up)? Or because My Vin is on the list it should be all good. Or would a swap back to stock manifold be needed?

I notice the noice but Im not really to bothered with it, but would prefer it not be there none the less.

lol I do plan to get a 626 manifold in the future, so I kinda want it untill then, but wouldnt be pissed if I dont.

I still cant find the list of Vin's for the screw thinggie though.

 

[zentrandi]

I dont think AWR will give better gains then the OBX or Tsudo or the Thunder (4-2-1, Vs 4-1) 4-1 has better flow, there is NO arguing with that. There is one collector Vs 3.

EVERYWHERE you look in reguards to 4-1 Vs 4-2-1, 4-1 is the better option & they all say the same thing

4-2-1 = Better low to mid range

4-1 Better mid to high

There are exceptions especially V-tec engines that have laughable levels of low end torque and can really use the power there (and smoothing out the V-Tec transition)

4-1 is also Illegal in most places for street use, and 4-2-1 is not, ever wonder why??????

With our engine it will benifit more to have the power increase Mid to High, we got no issues with low end torque.

Can anybody PROVE that AWR gives the most gains? Didnt think so.

As for Fitment, The Tsudo I got has issues with the EGR Valve lining up, Ive caught word that Im not the only one, & The Headers WILL GO ON with adjustments made to the pipe (Bending her with a screw driver) Ill let you know how much of a pain it is when I get it done next week.

I actually Dropped the Original exhaust manifold through the bottomof the car,and Had NO issue getting the headers in (Minus the EGR) from the top with the fan and hoses all still there.

Well im not bothered with my high end. i do prefer better lowend to higher top end. Where would i want to go more than 120 in houston anywho? To each their own

 

[steve_protege]

It also depends on what engine the header is going to be working with. That'll help sort out his options. To put in my 2 cents, I would definately say go with the Thunder Racing header. I have one (yet to put it on though, working on it)and from what I see, the construction is flawless. Its a well put together piece. Price wasn't wallet buster either. Only cost me 290.00 shipped to me (FL).

 

[zentrandi]

i just think the two piece design is a lifesaver... oh man the pains i had to install the AWR...

 

[TheBryGuy]

Tsudo header was $150 shipped and was easy to install aside from the EGR valve.

 

[zentrandi]

i think the awr sticks forward kinda farther