Thule roof rack questions

[discome]

I am picking up my 2013 Mazda 5 touring (with sunroof) this weekend and I plan to get the Thule roof rack attachments that attach to the fixed points on the roof. I plan to get 2 sets of J holders for my 2 kayaks and I have a couple of questions:
1. Which bars to people generally like better? The Aerobars or the regular square ones?

2. Will the sunroof open fully with these bars in place (either the Aerobars or the square ones)?

3. Does anyone use the J style cradles for kayaks? If so do you use the Thule ones, Yakima ones, or Sport rack ones? These are the 3 that I am considering

4. I may or may not keep the rack on the roof when not carrying my boats, so with the roof attachment points would it be easy to quickly remove the rack and replace the covers many times (as I need to use the rack or not) so that I get better gas mileage and less noise with the rack removed?

5. Are the Aerobars really much quieter than the square ones? If so and the sunroof opens fully then I may just keep those bars on all the time.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[microvan]

I've been lurking here for a while, but decided to register to give you some input. Don't you feel special?

1. Which bars to people generally like better? The Aerobars or the regular square ones?

No experience with the aerobars. I've had the square bars for several years and simply carried them over from my previous car, a Subaru. With the appropriate Thule foot pack, the wind noise is fairly pronounced. I bought a fairing and it helped somewhat. Integrated aero side rails (like those on the Subaru) really help to reduce wind noise. Alas, we don't have that option on the 5. The aero Thule setup may be better, but again, I have no experience with it.

2. Will the sunroof open fully with these bars in place (either the Aerobars or the square ones)?

Maybe with the square bars, but it would be a very, very close fit. I usually have a bike tray on my rack, and the sunroof will not open fully with that setup. I never have the racks on alone without the trays, so I never really tested it in that configuration. Maybe you want to look into the factory rack option? I believe they stand much taller than either the Thule or Yakima setups.

3. Does anyone use the J style cradles for kayaks? If so do you use the Thule ones, Yakima ones, or Sport rack ones? These are the 3 that I am considering

I've got two sets of Yakima J cradles, both the stationary type and the folding type. I'm sure the others you mentioned are fine, but I just prefer the attachment mechanism on the Yakima cradles. If you garage your 5, definitely get the folding J cradles - the stationary style may not clear your garage header. Also, if you're coming from a smaller car, be aware the 5 is much taller. If you're lifting a large, heavy kayak, you may need a spare set of hands. I have to step on the door sill to load my single kayaks (I'm 6' tall). There's no way I can lift my poly tandem kayaks alone (without scratching the top of the car - I have proof).

4. I may or may not keep the rack on the roof when not carrying my boats, so with the roof attachment points would it be easy to quickly remove the rack and replace the covers many times (as I need to use the rack or not) so that I get better gas mileage and less noise with the rack removed?

It's possible, but I would consider it a chore, even though it probably only takes 10-15 minutes. I only remove my rack for the winter months to avoid exposure to road salt. Also, I'd think repetitive tightening and loosening of the bolts might compromise the threads. That's pure speculation on my part, but there you have it. Honestly, the bolts and fix points are diminutive enough to be downright scary. I suppose the mechanical engineers know what they're doing, but I would much prefer something far more substantial. I think the rating on the roof racks is 150-200 lbs. I'd definitely not exceed that. I don't know what the updraft rating is on the racks, but with a kayak that's something to consider. Definitely take the extra precaution of bow and stern lines.

 

[discome]

I am coming from a Subaru Forester and before that a Honda CRV - both of which I used my old Yakima setup for my kayaks (which has long since worn out and needs replacement). I will be garaging my 5, but it seems like all of the J cradles pop on and off fairly quickly, so I'd just take them off whenever I didn't have my 2 touring kayaks on there. The OEM Mazda rack may not be wide enough and it looks sort of strange to me (I think sitting too high). I like the idea of the Thule aerobars, but they are slightly more expensive than the square setup and I wonder if I would gain the benefit if I left them on or removed them. Plus some attachments may not fit the aerobars (like some future bike attachments) but I think most do.