Thermal cover msp pipes

[irr5302]

im run very happy today with minimal hesitation only in 4 gear 500rpm only 4500-5000
att irr

 

[YuYuRena]

yea me too, only starting to understand you irr5302, but hey i guess i can't speak spanish as good as you can speak english so what the heck. nice job on the experiment. keep up the good work

 

[irr5302]

ONLY NEED COVER ONE PIPE THIS WEEKEND

THE PIPE FROM THE FLOW METER TO THE TURBO INLET

AND TEST THE NEXT MONDAY IN THE REAL WORLD PR MORE THAN 100o f IN THE STREET


IM RUN BETTER MUCH BETTER AND MORE HAPPY THIS WEEK ONLY WITH MINIMAL HESITATION 500RPM ONLY 4500-5000RPM


THANKS MY PRINCIPAL LANGUAGE IS SPANISH

ATT irr

1239/2000PR


ONLY FOUR MSP HERE 3 ORANGE 1 BLACK

 

[irr5302]

can you explain where is the expension area you say ?


__________________

THE EXPANSION AREA IS WHERE THE PLASTIC PIPE NOT IS FLAT

THIS PART EXPAND WHEN YOU RUN THE CAR

IN THE PIC(PHOTO) THIS PART HAVE ORANGE STRING

IN THE PIPE FROM TURBO TO INTERCOOLER YOU HAVE 3 PARTS

ONE PART FLAT THE EXPANSION AREA AND THE OTHER AREA FLAT

IN THE FLAT YOU PUT TAPE IN THE OTHER NOT

ATT IRR

1239/2000

EXCUSE MY ENGLISH

 

[dj JINX]

hmmm

 

[iON Performance]

For those thinking about covering the stock pipes, be VERY careful. You'll be retaining too much heat inside the plastic, and will actually start to release specific chemicals used in plastic manufacturing. As well, it'll slowly destroy the plastic by retaining too much heat.

 

[irr5302]

ANY WAY IS HOT HOT HOT INSIDE OR OUT THE MSP IS HOT THE CHEMICALS ARE RELEASE ANY WAY

ATT IRR

 

[girth]

Yeah I'm not sure I understand Ion's post --- the pipes should be much COOLER with the heat wrap on? Sure the heat wrap will probably "hold in" the heat longer after you shut the engine off, but I don't understand why that matters.

 

[AFaceInTheCrowd]

charge air is INSANELY HOT (well maybe not that hot). that pipe that is in the pic is BEFORE the intercooler. that pipe is keeping out engine heat, but keeping in the charge air heat. THAT is what Ion is speaking of.

 

[All Boost]

so It would probably be better to use a loose wrap. This way it would disapate the hot charge air, but block the radiant heat from the motor. For me. I'd like to keep those pipes at a cooler temp, but if Mazda is giving us a new ECU to fix the hestitation then I'll be happy leaving everything stock. Just my two beans.

 

[Black Majik MSP]

It sounds more like a vague suggestion to switch to hard pipes first if you plan on wrapping them.

 

[irr5302]

Thanks ION form the suggestion

Under the hood at half day 1/2 day her in PR

The under hood temperature is more than 180oF tested

Im run my car 1 hour to work

What is better 180oF in one complet hour OR 110oF one complet hour and 70oF other hour cool down

ATT IRR

1239/2000PR

 

[505zoom]

I stated this before in another thread, and it was nice to finally see someone else agree with me-especially Jack at iON. The air coming out of the turbo has to be hotter than the under hood temps. I do not think that it is a good idea to wrap that pipe from the turbo to the IC. You will be trapping more heat in than you are keeping out. The IC -> TB would be good, as well as the CAI.

That wrapping is a sheild, nothing more. It does not magically cool your pipes down, it merely keeps the heat wherever it already is. If the temp. outside the pipe is hotter then the inside, then you will achieve what you guys are saying. But I am 99% positive that the air coming out of the turbo is way hotter than the 180 F you say the under hood temps are. I would be very concerned about melting or bursting that plastic pipe. Just my opinion though.

 

[irr5302]

Which is better case 1 or case 2

1 TWO (2) source of heat

A.under hood heat 180oF
B.inside of pipes 120oF
Total heat one hour run ???????????

2. only ONE (1) source of heat

A.inside of pipes

Total heat one hour run only the inside

Att IRR

1239/2000PR

 

[girth]

But I am 99% positive that the air coming out of the turbo is way hotter than the 180 F you say the under hood temps are. I would be very concerned about melting or bursting that plastic pipe. Just my opinion though.

Actually that's a good point - you may be right. I'm just not sure that's true though when you consider that the turbo is only spitting out air at 7 PSI. If it was higher pressure than just 7, then I'm certain you'd be right. But with just 7 I don't know.(dunno)

 

[YuYuRena]

Actually that's a good point - you may be right. I'm just not sure that's true though when you consider that the turbo is only spitting out air at 7 PSI. If it was higher pressure than just 7, then I'm certain you'd be right. But with just 7 I don't know.(dunno)

Well we can do a simple calculation using the gas law

PV=mRT or the equation I like: p=density*R*T

P=pressure
V=volume
m=mass
R=gas constant different depending on values and condition of the gas and its consitutent
T=temperature

anybody wanna punch it out??

 

[ping]

Depends on the air INLET temp as well - if you're moving, then the underhood area (stock air inlet in particular) is getting some airflow and so probably is not at 180 degrees. If that's the case, then you may or may not have 180+ between the turbo and the IC. The more important pipe to insulate is the cooled air from the IC to the TB.

I know on "good" IC's the IC will bring the charge to within x degrees of ambient - almost no matter what the inlet air temp is (note: ALMOST). In that case a CAI may or may not be necessary as the CAI is BEFORE the IC.

Our IC capacity isn't near high enough, so the air temps pre-turbo are important - it helps make up for lower IC capacity. (Water spray on the IC would have a similar effect, methinks, but may accelerate the corrosion of the IC.)

Only point is that the more important pipe to insulate is the IC-to-throttlebody pipe. Insulating that pipe, as IRR suggests, doesn't trap heat but rather traps the "absence of heat" in that pipe (the intercooler having removed some heat from the charge air).