The MS6 Build-a-Beast is coming very soon...(Pics)

[jcgemt2003]

I dont think that removing the clamps are going to solve anything.

 

[laloosh]

I dont think that removing the clamps are going to solve anything.

i agree

 

[PerformanceRacing]

Regarding your question on the wastegate...

I have the 7PSI wastegate and the Forge MBC as well, GT3071R turbo.Same WGA.

I turn it not even halfway and it's at 16psi. I am a dummy at tuning, so I cannot help you there, but that's my setup.

 

[ATE BALLER]

i agree

Think what you want, but you were able to get fuel cut still when you had the standback on there, right? Didn't you still have to lower boost to stay out of it? How about since you removed it? Have you been playing around with boost at all with no clamp on there?

 

[laloosh]

Think what you want, but you were able to get fuel cut still when you had the standback on there, right? Didn't you still have to lower boost to stay out of it? How about since you removed it? Have you been playing around with boost at all with no clamp on there?

the standback doesnt do s*** besides clamps the map. i got rid of it because i didnt like it, didnt think it was worth it, and simply dont liek cpe lol. my car hit fuel cut or boost cut, only in weather under 30 degrees, at 18.1psi. its not a map problem, its a temperature problem. i just got rid of it like 3 days ago. im probably not playing with boost untill something worth while comes out....read cobb ap due late feb early march...untill then its cobb sri, ets 3.5, full tbe.

unclamping everything would just make it worse. once the map sees over 18psi its going to cut no matter what.

 

[mrlilguy157]

so, what is logical, for Chris to do with his CP-E standback unit... would be to:

Clamp the MAP sensor below 4.2v, IE: 3.5v
Lose the ATP Boost Cut Killer Module
Tune out all knock
Have a safe, 11:1 or 12:1 A/F ratio throughout the power band under load.

Like someone else said, if your tuner doesn't under stand typical voltages relating to sensors input via pressure, volumetric airflow, 02 sensors, or what have you, then I would leave the shop immediately.

erg, we need real tuning via SCT or Cobb, preferably SCT, which can see and do everything, without reverse engineering. This is getting ridiculous. CP-E FTL.

Also, I would recommend some sort of OBDII scanner that sees knock in realtime, and start playing with your timing, advancing it or retarding it to get all knock out, at your desired, daily drivable tune at the daily level of boost.

Thats pretty much the basics of tuning.

edit: obviously use the CP-E to tune fuel via MAF.

 

[ATE BALLER]

the standback doesnt do s*** besides clamps the map. i got rid of it because i didnt like it, didnt think it was worth it, and simply dont liek cpe lol. my car hit fuel cut or boost cut, only in weather under 30 degrees, at 18.1psi. its not a map problem, its a temperature problem. i just got rid of it like 3 days ago. im probably not playing with boost untill something worth while comes out....read cobb ap due late feb early march...untill then its cobb sri, ets 3.5, full tbe.

unclamping everything would just make it worse. once the map sees over 18psi its going to cut no matter what.

Take a strole down here to Missouri, and I'll show you exactly what happens at 18, 19, and even 20 psi with nothing clamping the map at all. Better yet, wait til there's ice and snow on the ground again.

BTW, if it's not a map problem, then why would unclamping it make it worse?

You were likely hitting fuel cut because your fuel pressure and maf were not on par with your map. The temp effects the maf reading. The colder it is, the more air the ecu knows is going by. Ecu saw alot of air coming in, but couldn't figure out why the map was still reading low. The safest thing for the ecu to do when it doesn't know what's going on is to hit fuel cut. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

 

[dadasracecar]

The map clamp on the standback is the Boost Clip PSI in the advanced boost control settings. Its a nicer interface than setting a voltage, i.e. you set a boost that you want the car to see and it sets the voltage accordingly.

 

[jcgemt2003]

There is your answer. ^^^ If you wanna ask someone about the standback and you cant get a hold of cpe, dada is your best bet.

 

[jcgemt2003]

Think what you want, but you were able to get fuel cut still when you had the standback on there, right? Didn't you still have to lower boost to stay out of it? How about since you removed it? Have you been playing around with boost at all with no clamp on there?

Dude my car fuel cut like crazy without the clamps....Every time we lowered the voltage it got better and better.

 

[Haltech]

Take a strole down here to Missouri, and I'll show you exactly what happens at 18, 19, and even 20 psi with nothing clamping the map at all. Better yet, wait til there's ice and snow on the ground again.

BTW, if it's not a map problem, then why would unclamping it make it worse?

You were likely hitting fuel cut because your fuel pressure and maf were not on par with your map. The temp effects the maf reading. The colder it is, the more air the ecu knows is going by. Ecu saw alot of air coming in, but couldn't figure out why the map was still reading low. The safest thing for the ecu to do when it doesn't know what's going on is to hit fuel cut. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

Ugh your fuel pressure is variable on these things dude. Were going from a rough 17XX PSI with a stock pump into the 2200 psi territory with a modded CDFP.. Since you are so intuned with these cars and know so much, how about solving all of these issues for us? The problem is the ECU, plain in simple. UNTIL a complete overide of the STOCK Flash is overridden, there is NO piggyback solution that is going to fix our situation. Its either stand alone time or wait for COBB/SCT to give us what we need.

What hell is this statement supposed to mean?

QUOTE=ATE BALLER;3577707]Take a strole down here to Missouri, and I'll show you exactly what happens at 18, 19, and even 20 psi with nothing clamping the map at all. Better yet, wait til there's ice and snow on the ground again.

BTW, if it's not a map problem, then why would unclamping it make it worse?

You were likely hitting fuel cut because your fuel pressure and maf were not on par with your map. The temp effects the maf reading. The colder it is, the more air the ecu knows is going by. Ecu saw alot of air coming in, but couldn't figure out why the map was still reading low. The safest thing for the ecu to do when it doesn't know what's going on is to hit fuel cut. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

You do realize that the computer under lower temperatures, is going to ADD timing. There is NO increase in airflow through the engine at colder temps The computer is adding timing and somewhere along the programming lines of a certain temperature mark, the computer is making adjustments to an area the standback cannot compensate for. His fuel pressure is fine with his bigger pump, so i dont know why your taking people onto another path that doesnt exist.

Add nitrous to your car and see what happens... that will prove whether your theory is correct or not.

 

[ATE BALLER]

Dude my car fuel cut like crazy without the clamps....Every time we lowered the voltage it got better and better.

Yes, but did you have the upgraded pump installed?

Ugh your fuel pressure is variable on these things dude. Were going from a rough 17XX PSI with a stock pump into the 2200 psi territory with a modded CDFP.. Since you are so intuned with these cars and know so much, how about solving all of these issues for us? The problem is the ECU, plain in simple. UNTIL a complete overide of the STOCK Flash is overridden, there is NO piggyback solution that is going to fix our situation. Its either stand alone time or wait for COBB/SCT to give us what we need.

Duh! Fuel cut used to be pinned to the fuel pressure dropping off. The new ones don't (yet). Since the charecteristics of the fuel cut have drasticaly changed with the new pumps, it obvious does plays a big role.

You do realize that the computer under lower temperatures, is going to ADD timing. There is NO increase in airflow through the engine at colder temps The computer is adding timing and somewhere along the programming lines of a certain temperature mark, the computer is making adjustments to an area the standback cannot compensate for. His fuel pressure is fine with his bigger pump, so i dont know why your taking people onto another path that doesnt exist.

The rate of flow doesn't increase with the colder temps, but the mass of air that gets in at that same rate DEFFINATELY DOES increase. It's called "density" and it goes up when temperature goes down. If you don't think the ecu knows that, then I don't know what to tell ya. I never said his fuel pressure wasn't fine with the bigger pump, so...? And what non-existant path are you talking about? The point I'm making is that since he has more fuel on call as well as more air, and everything can physically work together w/o a problem, let the ecu see the higher map. I believe as the map increases (even beyond what we used to think was a limit), the ecu will simply demand more fuel until it sees the rail pressure fall. I think the map was only a limit due to the fuel system. That's why clamping it fixed it. The ecu never had to call for more fuel than it could get with the map clamped. Now since there's more fuel on call, it only makes sense to raise the bar, if you will.

Add nitrous to your car and see what happens... that will prove whether your theory is correct or not.

Now that is truely ricer logic. There's no way in hell any ecu could self-adjust for nitrous unless it had sensors specifically to pick up on it and it was configured to do so. Now a 20 shot I could see "maybe" not having much problems, but I still wouldn't do it with this intake manifold though.

 

[ATE BALLER]

BTW, if you read back a few pages, I'm the one who said he needed a standalone instead of the standback. Since he's still going with the standback and is hitting a brick wall, I'm just making some suggestions. Isn't that what we're all here for?

 

[rodney]

well looks like he just gonna have to wait for cobb ap

 

[bova80]

well there isn't going to be a cobb ap for the speed6 so he'll be waiting a long time

 

[laloosh]

Take a strole down here to Missouri, and I'll show you exactly what happens at 18, 19, and even 20 psi with nothing clamping the map at all. Better yet, wait til there's ice and snow on the ground again.

BTW, if it's not a map problem, then why would unclamping it make it worse?

You were likely hitting fuel cut because your fuel pressure and maf were not on par with your map. The temp effects the maf reading. The colder it is, the more air the ecu knows is going by. Ecu saw alot of air coming in, but couldn't figure out why the map was still reading low. The safest thing for the ecu to do when it doesn't know what's going on is to hit fuel cut. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

you really dont know what your talking about. how come i can hold 18 psi up top and not cut out but i cant hold it down low wihtout cutting out. Theres a difference btwn holding 18psi and spiking 18 psi. Shut me up and post a video of you doing a 35roll in 4th gear. Show both your boost guage and rpm. i want to see you hold 20 wihout clamping anything. make sure to get a shot of the car ambiant temp reading 30 or lower.

 

[Haltech]

Yes, but did you have the upgraded pump installed?



Duh! Fuel cut used to be pinned to the fuel pressure dropping off. The new ones don't (yet). Since the charecteristics of the fuel cut have drasticaly changed with the new pumps, it obvious does plays a big role.



The rate of flow doesn't increase with the colder temps, but the mass of air that gets in at that same rate DEFFINATELY DOES increase. It's called "density" and it goes up when temperature goes down. If you don't think the ecu knows that, then I don't know what to tell ya. I never said his fuel pressure wasn't fine with the bigger pump, so...? And what non-existant path are you talking about? The point I'm making is that since he has more fuel on call as well as more air, and everything can physically work together w/o a problem, let the ecu see the higher map. I believe as the map increases (even beyond what we used to think was a limit), the ecu will simply demand more fuel until it sees the rail pressure fall. I think the map was only a limit due to the fuel system. That's why clamping it fixed it. The ecu never had to call for more fuel than it could get with the map clamped. Now since there's more fuel on call, it only makes sense to raise the bar, if you will.



Now that is truely ricer logic. There's no way in hell any ecu could self-adjust for nitrous unless it had sensors specifically to pick up on it and it was configured to do so. Now a 20 shot I could see "maybe" not having much problems, but I still wouldn't do it with this intake manifold though.

Ugh, i guess you just cant read. Nevermind. You're a lost cause.

 

[PerformanceRacing]

I guess I'm lucky to be in FL where weather is rarely in the 40's..

Wednesday is going to be a high of 48, WOW. lol

 

[ATE BALLER]

you really dont know what your talking about. how come i can hold 18 psi up top and not cut out but i cant hold it down low wihtout cutting out. Theres a difference btwn holding 18psi and spiking 18 psi. Shut me up and post a video of you doing a 35roll in 4th gear. Show both your boost guage and rpm. i want to see you hold 20 wihout clamping anything. make sure to get a shot of the car ambiant temp reading 30 or lower.

Sorry you can't hold boost down low, but that's not my problem. It's not particularly good for a turbo anyway, so you're not really missing much. My e-01 doesn't spike, at all. It climbs quickly and platues where I set it, every time. I don't have any cables for my camera dude, and I've said that before. If you insist though, I'll tape it, take the cam to walgreens and pay em $20-30 or whatever to turn the tape into a dvd, and figure out how to get that on here. I'll have to wait until it gets that cold again here, but that shouldn't be too far off. If I do though, I want someone to reimburse me for the dvd, cause I shouldn't be having to go through this bulls*** just to keep you dips from talking s*** on me everytime I try to make a contribution.

Ugh, i guess you just cant read. Nevermind. You're a lost cause.

Typical. You can't argue with those statements and facts, but you still have to throw in a last word of meaningless garbage. Seems a little familiar.

We should be trying to help Chris since he's the one w/o his car right now. That's why I was suggesting that. It might not work, but it might. No one's publically gone where he is right now, so we should all be working together to solve the problem. If you want to discuss how to trick the ecu to go without fuel cut, I'm game. But, if you're going to argue with me and treat me like some kid just because I did something to my car over a month ago that someone else told you was a bad idea, then piss off. It's not necessary and not particularly welcome.

Chris, Mrlilguy's answer is probably the best (safest) one to go with for now. Tune it to run good until there's something better out there. If you want to try to squeeze some power out of it anyway, give my suggestion a shot. Worst case scenario, you hit fuel cut. Frankly, I don't care what the hell you do with your car, but I sure as s*** would love to see you throw some impressive numbers up.

 

[Dream]

Holy hijack batman. Why dont you girls make a different thread.