OK, about the rings....I dont know if any of you have heard about GAS PORTING the piston. Its basically drilling holes in the piston, it reaches the 1st ring land, this works for max seal, it will put pressure on the ring and close it against the wall.
The downside is... if you are running too rich or pump gas and its for street, those ports will get clogged. But it works good if it doesnt get clogged.
About rod bearings, some good race mechanics here just use stock bearings and give the rod a bit of sanding, this will give extra clearance for oil. BUT, if you do it yourself and you dont know what you are doing, jajajaj, you can blow the motor same day.
About the timing belt. As long as you keep stock rpm limits, good tensioner, no problems. The problem starts when revving up more, high lift cams and upgraded valve springs, all this add stress to the whole system, more directly to the belt.
Valves and heat. Yeah the may bend or melt, exhaust valves receives more heat, that happens mostly when you boost for long periods of time. One great solution is Stainless steel valves, once they bend they can be fixed easily, but they are very expensive.
Ive never heard crankwalk on this motor before. So I dont know what to say.
Clutch. A heavy duty Pressure plate (Xtreme) also affects the crank, too much use (like on daily) is bad for the crank. Everytime you put pressure on it, you are actually pushing thousands of pounds on the crank while it is rotating, putting excesive wear on it, this can also be an issue affecting for possible crankwalk. The best solution is to use heavy DISK, like the 4, 6 pucks or the whole disk "one-piece-puck" and a lighter plate, once it starts to slip, you will eventually need more pressure, but in the mean time, use less pressure and more clamp.
