Terrible part-throttle hesitation after my mods

MrDiggler

Member
Contributor
:
Spicy MSP #1349, '88 323 GTX, '79 10th Ann. T/A, 462 ci 4-spd
I've searched on this topic with marginal results. A couple of weeks ago I installed a Turbohoses SMIC, Vibrant exhaust and Injen CAI. Since then, I've been getting an occasional really nasty hesitation at part throttle and less than full boost. It seems to be occurring between 3-4k rpms, but I can't ever seem to get my eyes on the tach right when it happens to know for sure. I'm aware that people have experienced problems in this rpm range and I've had some minor issues even before the mods, but nothing like this. It's almost violent, like someone just yanked 3 of my plug wires. The car will clear its throat after a second or two, then it seems o.k. It also seems to be most likely to do it when I'm going uphill in second gear, and when it's below 40 deg. F.

Tonight it did it going up the hill into my neighborhood on the way home, so I when I got to the house I grabbed my trusty vacuum/fuel pressure gauge that I've used to check boost before (I don't have a boost gauge yet, next on the list), ran a line into the car, and had my girlfriend ride with me and watch it to track the boost for a few minutes. I was surprised to find that my boost is now spiking to 8.5 psi and settling at 8 psi under WOT rather than the 6.5/6 psi I had before the mods. The SMIC and exhaust really made a difference. At first I couldn't get the problem to happen again. Apparently, at WOT and 7+ psi, it won't happen. Finally I got the car pointed uphill at about 2k in 2nd gear, rolled into the throttle slowly up to around 1/3 to 1/2, then wham, it did it. I can't remember for sure, but it seems like I might have lifted just a hair and that may have been what triggered it. I asked my g/f what the boost was doing, and she said it had steadily climbed to 6 psi and leveled off there before it did it. (Then it bounced around while the engine tried to sort itself out). This would tell me that it's not fuel cut (which was my initial suspicion), or else it would happen at higher boost as well.

FWIW, I've been over all my IC piping and checked most of the vac. lines that I can see. My factory hot and cold pipes are clamped with t-bar clamps, and they're really cranked down. I cleaned the EGR a couple of weeks ago. New IK20 Iridiums are installed. I really don't know what's happening, but I have to wonder if it's not seriously leaning out at part throttle and medium boost. When I dynoed last week, I was shocked to see how lean it is below 3,750 rpm. My dyno is attached. Disregard the A/F from my pull before the mods...their tailpipe wideband setup sucks. The new pull was with the wideband in the extra bung in the Vibrant, and the A/F results were similar over the next two pulls. I'm seriously considering DSM Convert's AFC, but wanted to see if there were any other ideas on this first. I may try another dyno session later in the week, as I'd like to try some part throttle pulls with the boost gauge hooked up and logging A/F. If could get the problem to replicate on the dyno, I'm sure it would help with resolving it.
 

Attachments

  • mini-dyno2-1.webp
    mini-dyno2-1.webp
    83.1 KB · Views: 208
Last edited:
I didn't read if your ECU has been flashed, if it's not that may be causing the problem. I never really had problems with it but I did fell this like 2 or 3 times that I had the car before getting updated so that may be what is causing it. Disregard if its been updated I didn't see. An EMS would be a good next upgarde though. Good luck.

Orng1/bob
 
Hey man, I had a similar problem for the past 6 month. Its always between 3500-4000rpm. Or sometimes when you step on the gas on low rpm. I hated it so so much. But I finally find a solution. Relocate your MAF.

I just relocated my MAF last week, I dont have that problem anymore. Power will come right after 2500 rpm, very smooth....... I love it.......
 
Yea... I have all the bolt-on mods too, and also have that dreaded hesitation. Seems like mine is closer to 5psi, not sure the rpm's. It happens all the time, part throttle. Full throttle, it doesn't happen. I think I am going to relocate my maf... seems to work for others.
 
Yes, be sure to reset the ECU. My car was running very strangely after I installed my Apex catted midpipe. Once I reset the ECU things got much better. Also, I recently redid my vacuum lines to my bpv and wastegate. This seems to have made a difference as well because I have read different things about the wastegate actuator not responding properly without a good vacuum source or connection.
 
Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, I don't know if my car has been flashed or not. I haven't been able to get a straight answer from two different dealers, and there's no sticker or label anywhere to indicate that it has. If has indeed not been flashed, I think I'll leave it that way and look at other solutions. Once it's done, it's done, and I don't want to add in the extra timing just yet if I don't need it.

The ECU was reset during the upgrades, and has been reset again a few days ago.

As for relocating the MAF, anyone have any links/pics handy for doing that?

I have a hell of a time trying to search the forum. The search function apparently doesn't find partial matches, and it makes me nuts trying to find threads that I know are out there because I've seen them before.
 
Here is the one that I was reading... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615384

I'm gonna go ahead and do it.

Dave


MrDiggler said:
Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, I don't know if my car has been flashed or not. I haven't been able to get a straight answer from two different dealers, and there's no sticker or label anywhere to indicate that it has. If has indeed not been flashed, I think I'll leave it that way and look at other solutions. Once it's done, it's done, and I don't want to add in the extra timing just yet if I don't need it.

The ECU was reset during the upgrades, and has been reset again a few days ago.

As for relocating the MAF, anyone have any links/pics handy for doing that?

I have a hell of a time trying to search the forum. The search function apparently doesn't find partial matches, and it makes me nuts trying to find threads that I know are out there because I've seen them before.
 
If you currently have hard pipe, it will not be hard to relocated the MAF.

There is what you need:
3 coupler and clamp $21 autozone or pepboys.
$5 for the muffler shop to make 4 cut for you. ( trust me, you are better of letting them cut it)

make sure you measure the pipe before you cut, the MAF should be at least 5-10inchs away from the TB, and 4-5 inchs away from the BOV.

After you measured and cut the pipe, the rest is just connecting it them with the coupler. Its a pretty easy job, shouldnt take more than 1 hr.
 
Back