Talking to Lawyer

Thanks Tex, I will PM him to see how his deal went.


As I do more research i'm getting different stories from different lawyers. Now my problem is just the rear sway bar bushings squeeking like a bed.

I'm not referencing all MSP's but MINE sounds like a squeeky bed ad low speeds. It's volume is high enough that the stereo has to way up to drone it.

I don't know maybe I should expect my new car to need to be in the shop once a month...it just doesn't seem right.
 
Tito1 said:
Hey Jersey boy...here's another assumption...your and idiot.


I too can pull quotes that have nothing to do with eachother and flame.

So when you make and assumption in one post and then make an assumption in another post, you see no similarities between the two no connecting links between the two quotes? Does your brain just choose to work when it wants to?


Im an idiot when I knew what type of car I was getting into and what I should expect from it. Not to mention someone who goes around making assumptions wherever he goes about things he knows nothing about is just another sign of pure genius. So listen penny pincher just because you made a bad decision doenst mean the rest of us are idiots.... just dont get mad when someone else shows how much of a true fool you are. And you still think the best way to get at someone is to attack their SN, repetition another sign of intelligence. your just truly brilliant, (jerkit) please I hope this all works out for you so we no longer need to listen to a whining little **** anymoreor that it doesnt work out for you and you have to deal with being unhappy over spending a lot of your money on car you dislike driving and owning ...either way :D
 
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All I can say is Mazda did the best they could given the time and budget. I'm not complaining much. My car gets oohs and ahhs and all the problems that come with it can be fixed with little effort and money. Spend 1000 and the car will be just like it should have been all along.
 
Tito1 said:
Thanks Tex, I will PM him to see how his deal went.


As I do more research i'm getting different stories from different lawyers. Now my problem is just the rear sway bar bushings squeeking like a bed.

I'm not referencing all MSP's but MINE sounds like a squeeky bed ad low speeds. It's volume is high enough that the stereo has to way up to drone it.

I don't know maybe I should expect my new car to need to be in the shop once a month...it just doesn't seem right.

mine creaks like crazy in the front when i first take it out and the sway bar hasn't moved much, its so bad that my roomate (heavily compitent when it comes to cars) thought for sure something was broken, but after a half hour of driving it goes away, for whatever reason the minor issues this car has seem to mask themselves as MUCH bigger issues, like my EGR problem, when the idle dips really low the entire car rattles, most of it is the rear lip (tape is coming off) but it sounds like a freaking helicopter is hovering right above me, but i have full confidence that mazda will fix all these problems under the warranty, i guess we'll see though... i dunno, i just think it will be hard to prove to a judge that these few small problems are causing people to have a lack of interest in your car, if you really sat someone down and explained exactly what the issue was it shouldn't be a problem, hence why people who have done the research on the cars before hand still decided to buy it, it just seems that if they are backing out because of those reasons, they weren't 100% interested in the car itself (problems or not) to begin with...

and TX, aren't the upgraded bushings/brackets that mazda installs as warranty replacements good enough? i'm pretty sure i've read about quite a few people who had all of those problems fixed for free under the warranty with upgraded hardware...
 
JHew84 said:
mine creaks like crazy in the front when i first take it out and the sway bar hasn't moved much, its so bad that my roomate (heavily compitent when it comes to cars) thought for sure something was broken, but after a half hour of driving it goes away, for whatever reason the minor issues this car has seem to mask themselves as MUCH bigger issues, like my EGR problem, when the idle dips really low the entire car rattles, most of it is the rear lip (tape is coming off) but it sounds like a freaking helicopter is hovering right above me, but i have full confidence that mazda will fix all these problems under the warranty, i guess we'll see though... i dunno, i just think it will be hard to prove to a judge that these few small problems are causing people to have a lack of interest in your car, if you really sat someone down and explained exactly what the issue was it shouldn't be a problem, hence why people who have done the research on the cars before hand still decided to buy it, it just seems that if they are backing out because of those reasons, they weren't 100% interested in the car itself (problems or not) to begin with...

and TX, aren't the upgraded bushings/brackets that mazda installs as warranty replacements good enough? i'm pretty sure i've read about quite a few people who had all of those problems fixed for free under the warranty with upgraded hardware...

You'll still probably end up with the clunk even when having replaced bushings. I'm had mine replaced 3 times under warranty.

Also watch out with exhuast that route underneath the sway bar. (Like mine does.) The heat from the muffler will dry out the bushings and make it clunk again.
 
JHew84 said:
and TX, aren't the upgraded bushings/brackets that mazda installs as warranty replacements good enough? i'm pretty sure i've read about quite a few people who had all of those problems fixed for free under the warranty with upgraded hardware...

They are good enough for a short while. But they are still a temporary fix. My new ones eliminate the clunk when I am the only one in the car, but it's always there if the back seat is loaded.

The problem is 1: the mounting location allows for the sway bar to rotate and flex and 2: the rubber material the bushings are made out of. Getting new bushings from mazda will cover up the problem, but not be a permanent solution

Once the rubber bushings warm up enough they expand and grip the bar better. This is why your front ones don't squeak after you've been driving for 20 minutes or if the outside temperature is about 70 degrees or so. If you take your stock ones off and put some grease in there it will help, but changing to a new bushing material would be best.

The rear bushings have the same problem. Their mounting location is wrong (done to save money probably on bracket costs) and as a resut the bar flexes and gives us that nice clunk. I forget who it was selling the new brackets (I know Ping did some testing for him and Apocman has a set) but they follow the design created by Racing Beat. No more flex in the bar = no more clunk.
 
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FBI14 said:
So when you make and assumption in one post and then make an assumption in another post, you see no similarities between the two no connecting links between the two quotes? Does your brain just choose to work when it wants to?


Im an idiot when I knew what type of car I was getting into and what I should expect from it. Not to mention someone who goes around making assumptions wherever he goes about things he knows nothing about is just another sign of pure genius. So listen penny pincher just because you made a bad decision doenst mean the rest of us are idiots.... just dont get mad when someone else shows how much of a true fool you are. And you still think the best way to get at someone is to attack their SN, repetition another sign of intelligence. your just truly brilliant, (jerkit) please I hope this all works out for you so we no longer need to listen to a whining little **** anymoreor that it doesnt work out for you and you have to deal with being unhappy over spending a lot of your money on car you dislike driving and owning ...either way :D


(boobs)Bigger letters scare me(boobs)
 
So does AWR sway bar kit have the same problem? I looked on their website and see that they sell sway bar bushings for the Protege. I havent asked Anthony yet but alot of his suspention parts work on the MSP...like the endlinks and etc.

Also someoen on here talked about going to pepboys buying like a $35 energy suspention sway bar bushing insert and replacing the stock ones with those. Seemed like a even cheaper and more relaible fix.

You probally would have saved a good amount of money by just buying AWR sway bars which are very beefy and nice. Then sell the Racing beat one, which alot of people still want. Also I would have tried contacting racing beat and see what they say. Either way its ironic that you talk about how mucht he MSP cost and then hiring a attourney and then spending on a perhaps another car that cost the same if not more.

The creeking sound I woudl think comes from your motor mounts as swaybar bushings make a "klunk" sound. The creek should should only happen when the weather is cold...or it is for me. And it got worse with stiffer mounts.

For the price at the time there were only 3 or so cars that produced 170 hp or more at 20K

Civic Si (Minivan look alike)
Sentra SE-R Spec V
2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
2003 SRT-4

Civic SI and Spec V were non turbo and I figured turbo cars for that price($20K) is better then a NA car for that price ($20K). I wasnt a big fan of the minivan Civic SI look. My friend worked in Nissan at the time and told me horror stories of the Sentra. At the time they had a recall for the firewall surronding the ECU? Where the ECU could catch on fire and burn the car down or cause the engine to **** up. Which I personally saw 3 cars with that problem happen.

The Nissan recall covers Sentras built between January 2000 and March 2003. A piece of foam insulation in a box housing the engine computer can emit sulfur, possibly causing corrosion in the computer that can lead to rough running or stalling engines.

Good thing the MSP hasnt had a recall yet. So seemed like the MSp had minor problems compared to the sentra.

so it came down to the SRT-4 and MSP. I did my research and the SRT-4 at the time had no LSD, skinny 205 KDW tires (1st version), looked like a neon, talks about clutch problems/oil leaks, made 215 hp, no racinghart rims, no badass stock sound system, soft feel as the MSP had more percise handling because of its springs.

My decision was the MSP becasue it offered a better overall package then the SRT-4 at the time. Problems that were fixed in the next year as Dodge added the LSD which makes the tranny stronger and put in more HP with stage 1 standard. Also priced climed almost 2-3K...which accounts for the LSD and Stage 1. MAzda on the other hand did not have another year to perfect the protege as it was discontinued. But they did improve on the MP3 design by adding a LSD, wider tires, redesigned rims, more power and etc. just like the difference between 2003-2004 SRT-4. What im saying is the models improve with time. Like the old RSX type S vs the new RSX type S. 2003 WRX vs the 2004 WRX vs the 2005 WRX. The 2003 EVO VIII vs the newer 2004-2005 EVO VIII wit more goodies standard. Or the 2003 SRT-4 compared to the new 2004 SRT-4. And you know what the next SRT-4 will be improved even more with the ACR package...addresses what peopel say is a improvment in handling. If the MSP was in production for another 2 year it would have definately been improved.

Also MAzda had the "test the best offer" which was like $2-3K off MSRP. Dodge SRT-4 at the time was pretty hot and dealers wanted even more then the $20K price tag. Dealers eat up alot of the cost. There was a point where manufatuers wanted a direct buy system like they have in Japan. Where you can order your car form the manufatuer to your specific spec without going into a local dealer. But america being the land of unions had somethign to say about that ideal North American Dealer Association shot it down and thus you can get owned by the dealer on hidden fees.
 
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spacemonkey said:
The creeking sound I woudl think comes from your motor mounts as swaybar bushings make a "klunk" sound. The creek should should only happen when the weather is cold...or it is for me. And it got worse with stiffer mounts.

No dude it's the front sway bar bushings that make that squeak. If you get your front ones replaced that squeak will go away for a while.

The rear ones only cost $10-20 each, I got mine from a local dealer for $11 each, but was quoted up to $17 each at other dealers.

I'm not sure about the AWR stuff. Never heard anyone complain about the clunck with them.
 
TX Speed Demon said:
No dude it's the front sway bar bushings that make that squeak. If you get your front ones replaced that squeak will go away for a while.

The rear ones only cost $10-20 each, I got mine from a local dealer for $11 each, but was quoted up to $17 each at other dealers.

I'm not sure about the AWR stuff. Never heard anyone complain about the clunck with them.

might try that out as im stock up parts for a big install day. But dealing with grease I hate doing...
 
spacemonkey said:
might try that out as im stock up parts for a big install day. But dealing with grease I hate doing...

I feel you, that's why mine haven't been replaced. Plus the front ones I heard you need to remove the endlinks which can be pretty though to do. The rear ones only take about 30 minutes, 5 if you've got an impact wrench. Check out the "common msp problems and fixes" thread for a how-to I wrote up.
 
Here we go, lets fix the damn problem. So I don't know where my squeeks come from. My clunk has not come back. My front suspension finally stopped 'crunching' in cold weather. But after they fixed the front 'crunch', I ended up with a 'squeek' that sounds like it comes from the rear. So does that clear up where this specific issue is...if so please help.

I understand that there aren't many other NEW choices that match up in price/quality to the MSP. Sorry though, I won't be deterred...It's still expensive.
 
As my man Girth already stated...


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So what exactly is a cheap for a new car a MSM? Even the Mazda 3 hatch will set you hack $16-18K. The Mazda 3 SP23 is a $20K car. Civic SI @19K? a WRX @ 24K. or you can go one step lower and have a virtually problem free car that is down right cheap. 100% reliable cheap car thats brand new maybe a Civic at $13K. Go even lower and you can buy a Kia or a Hyundai.

I looked at your location and now that I see you live in Cali 20K shouldnt be that bad for a new car that is fairly nice...highest model protege. Standard of living there is higher then in some places.
 
spacemonkey said:
So what exactly is a cheap for a new car a MSM? Even the Mazda 3 hatch will set you hack $16-18K. The Mazda 3 SP23 is a $20K car. Civic SI @19K? a WRX @ 24K. or you can go one step lower and have a virtually problem free car that is down right cheap. 100% reliable cheap car thats brand new maybe a Civic at $13K. Go even lower and you can buy a Kia or a Hyundai.
The new Civics aren't that great. Can't share any personal experience but you can check carsurvey.org to find out...

I guess by "new" I meant post-2001.
 
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Dim said:
The new Civics aren't that great. Can't share any personal experience but you can check carsurvey.org to find out...

i know . Safe and reliable but very cheaply made. low HP means you dont have to worry aobut anyting being broken.

But what im saying $13K-$20K is the very standard for a entry level car. The Subaru Impresa 2.5RS starts at $19K. Base line RSX starts at $17K. I dont know I honestly dont think the MSP was over priced or anything. I think it wa priced right. im sure a protege owner will tell you it will probally cost the same amount to fab up a turbo kit on a put all the suspention components on. But to be honest...there is a corrolation between price and quality. you pay more for better stuff.

The cobalt SS is gonna be $24K.
 
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