talked to split second about their afc with NA Tuning!!!!

Also a good set of cams with those mods jamesk mentioned will really open up the top end with the ssafc. The JDM intake cam from corksport.com is a good choice, very noticeable pull after about 3.5K.
 
yeah i have Integral stage 2 turbo cams sitting at home waiting to go in with the turbo. i'm really itching to just install them now tho since i need to do the timing belt anyway. but i don't know how it would run. same lift as the NA cams, except the ramp is slightly different for turbo application i'd imagine it would be better than stock tho.

i also have a 626 intake mani, but it was one with VTCS so i gotta get the hole welded. i dunno if i'm gonna bring it somewhere or buy the aluminum spool gun for my mig welder and try it myself. i've never welded aluminum tho.


NCZ13 - 20-80mph is a roll in 1st through the beginning of 4th. it's not the same tune i posted, and the road was a little wet obviously.
http://rides.webshots.com/video/3065645530081879237jLmzbN?vhost=rides i'll try to get one today.
 
it was blinking. when i rev up to around 6500-7000rpms and shift it goes crazy rich and the ECU thinks the engine misfired so it throws the code. sometimes it'llcontinue to blink until i turn the ignition off. it's ****** annoying.

also since i put in a new primary O2 sensor ive been running a lot richer and i keep getting a code for the cat. guess i gotta throw the o2 simulator back on there.


i started to tune part throttle, i have output b set at -6.11Hg. still working out some spots, it's hard to keep the engine at certain pressures to be able to check the data and look at the rpms and see what pressure it was going lean at. man i wish i was able to datalog everything onto one graph :( still needs work but i did gain a lot of acceleration at part throttle. also i don't know if it's our cars in general or the FTC, but cruising around 80mph @ 4krpms after a little bit AFRs drop to 9-10 and stay there until i let off the throttle real quick. then i'm able to continue cruising until it comes back a little while again.. so i'm gonna try to find out wtf is causing it and work that out as well
 
Last edited:
also i don't know if it's our cars in general or the FTC, but cruising around 80mph @ 4krpms after a little bit AFRs drop to 9-10 and stay there until i let off the throttle real quick. then i'm able to continue cruising until it comes back a little while again.. so i'm gonna try to find out wtf is causing it and work that out as well
It's the stock ECU. Mine does the same thing and I'm running a MSP ECU. It isn't exactly 4000 RPM, IIRC but even if I'm in vacuum (my AFC "over pressure" is set to 1.1 psi because I'm F/I) once I hit like 4500 RPM the car will peg rich. It only does this at higher RPM while cruising so it really doesn't bother me. I can cruise in 5th at 80 and it won't do that but if I downshift into 4th to pass someone it will go rich even if I don't go into boost. You could technically tune that out (4500 RPM and above throughout the vacuum range) but for me it isn't a problem because I'm rarely cruising in 4th at 80 mph.
 
those afr's at wot and in the high rpm range are a little too lean. i kept seeing numbers in the high 13's and low 14's. this could cause those misfires being the engine running too hot. id advise you to add .2 in those cells to keep things a little more rich. also make sure you are tuning with the same octane gas.

the number should be around 12.8 to 13.3. anything higher than 13.5 should be adjusted. your losing power anything higher than that and it is not worth the risk of the engine.

the first video was fine though
 
^^yeah i was shooting for 13.2 below 3500 and 12.5 above. that was a rough bad tune. and everything is now in the 11's since i put in the new o2 sensor.

and everything is on 87 octane. lol
 
Back