switching form bpv to bov

K

khvolk1s

Member
:
2003.5 Mazdaspeed Proteg'e
Ok first off I really looked to see if there was already a thread for this but couldn't find one. If there is just link it and I will smack the back of my head for you. having said that. I am researching as much as I can into getting a fmic. Because I am consistently short on cash I'm just looking at some ebay universals (I don't intend to run up the boost too much) none of them appear to have bov flanges so I figure Ill need one of them as well (plus the bov itself)

so now the question is what do I do with the little metal tube jutting out from my injen cai meant for the bpv? plug it, cut it and plug it? let it be? I'd really appreciate any light you guys can shed.

ps since the fmic is universal, is there any special way one has to cut the pipes? or can I just use a sawsall or something?
 
With the eBay fmic you will have to cut out the crash bar which can be unsafe if you wreck it.

There are pipes you can get on eBay that will have the flange built into it. eBay bov is fine I am using one now

You don't have to run a bov you can still run the stock bpv if you get a flange added to the piping, or just recirculate it. Don't forget you will need to relocate your maf if you run a vta setup
 
i read elsewhere that if its no taller than 7 in you dont have to cut the crash bar.
 
Buy the FMIC that Dino sells, It isn't universal, it is made to fit and you dont need to do anything to the crash bar.

speedcircuit fmic
 
I got a turbo smart type h, not installed yet, but hope it solves the flooding of the motor after the bypass valve, bypasses.
 
car shouldn't flood with stock bpv or any recirculated valve for that matter. You sure you don't have another pre existing problem?
 
Bpv could be leaking between intake and bpv. Mine richens a bit when I shift when I recirculate it, although when using vta setup its way richer. But when its recirculated when I shift I will see my afrs 10.5-11.8
 
When the blow off valve recirulates, my rpms drop to zero, then goes back to normal, unless I tap the gas afterwards.
 
From reading, it started after the front mount intercooler install. When bypass happens it is to much pressure causing flooding of the engine.
 
The turbo smart is supposed to be 50/50 recirculate/ atmosphere. I will see. If not, from what I know relocating the MAF will help. (spell check)
 
Maf should have been relocated anyway, the ecu is thinking there is air going into the motor that isn't and there for adding fuel to compensate which makes it run rich/load up an kill your idle. I can't relocate the afm on my 323 and I'm runing a bov if I wait a few seconds before shifting with the clutch in it will backfire an spit a 6-12" flame out. Of course it has no muffler or anything. It will also go below 10.0 on my wideband
 
Mine backfires, mainly when leaving second gear. I will try the turbo xs type h valve. If the issue remains I will look into MAF relocation.
 
Problem will not go away without maf relocation, I've already explained why. Getting a new bov will not solve your issue
 
Yes, but if it worked fine before the front mount install, wich raised the pressure, reducing the bypass valve airflow to the intake should help. I will find out soon hopefully.
 
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