Strange Issue

4g63et

Member
:
2003.5 Ti Mazdaspeed Protege
Well I have been running into a strange issue..

Car Setup:
-Unichip
-Injen CAI
-MBC at 9psi
-20 "/hg at idle
- No CEL's

First off the car runs amazing when its below regular operating temp.. Once the car is warm it runs like s***. Before its warm it pulls hard without any timing being pulled, no hesitation and a clean idle. As soon as the car is up to op. temp I can feel timing being pulled and the car feels like a stone... The idle dips down low and feels like the car wants to stall.. Anyone run into an issue like this? I have checked all vacum lines and replace them all to make sure none were cracked, all the hose clamps on the ic pipes are tight. I am just not sure what to check next.

Thanks
 
Maybe a ECM problem? I dont know about newer cars but on older cars the ECM usually dont take over until the car gets up to temp. just an idea.

Nick
 
heat soak, inefficient intercooler and plastic piping causes this.. just what i would think
Nah..this doesn't sound like the typical MSP stumbles.
This sounds much more involved.
But I am not sure where to point you...so I am of no help.
 
actually, mine does the EXACT same thing.... if the ambient air temp is above about 60 or so, it runs like garbage once it reaches operating temp. it seems like i can overcome the stumble if i downshift and start above 3500 RPMs.... the stumble really makes itself evident when trying to build boost from below 3000. i always just kind of assumed it was heatsoak, so someday when i get a front mount, we'll see if it goes away, but for the time being, i feel your pain and know your frustration.

setup:
Injen CAI
Vibrant "TBE"
SU hotpipe
 
It sounds like heat soak for sloppy the performance part (not much cooling going on from the stock pocket size intecoolers), but what intrigues me is your car wanting to stall.
 
actually, mine does the EXACT same thing.... if the ambient air temp is above about 60 or so, it runs like garbage once it reaches operating temp. it seems like i can overcome the stumble if i downshift and start above 3500 RPMs.... the stumble really makes itself evident when trying to build boost from below 3000. i always just kind of assumed it was heatsoak, so someday when i get a front mount, we'll see if it goes away, but for the time being, i feel your pain and know your frustration.

setup:
Injen CAI
Vibrant "TBE"
SU hotpipe

Yeah its quite annoying, I have the exact same thing to the "T"... The upper intercooler pipe is not "that" hot tho... Maybe see if I can keep it a tiny bit under op temp to keep it running well but for some reason the car is rich as s***.. Tail Pipe is back to black and my gas mileage is absolute s***.. I am frazzled, I am going to try a few things and see if it cleans up the power band.

-New Coolent Temp Sensor
-Colder Thermostat (last to do)
-Replace EGR
-Replace Wastegate actuator

If anyone has anyother suggestions keep em comin..

Thanks(dark)
 
definately let me know how it all works out for you... i'm especially interested in the lower temp thermostat, as i had the same idea a while ago. in everyone's oppinion, which would be a better/quicker fix for this problem:

FMIC
or
unichip

(start unofficial poll here)
 
I figured the unichip would fix the damn problem. It did for a while and once the ecu relearned all of the variables its worse then before. I have a turbolife FMIC comin so maybe that will help to lean the car out and keep the charge temps low.
 
Check your spark plugs and pcv. Have you ever used seafoam? Stick with the 180 degree temp, no need to go lower than that.
 
Plugs are about a month old and gapped properly, pvc I havnt checked.. No I have no used Seafoam but I have used red line fuel system cleaner to rid of any carbon build up.
 
ditto on the plugs, this is so weird, lol, everytime i read your posts it's like i don't have to say anything, my car is already spoken for... anywho.... i didn't realize the ECU could learn OVER the unichip.... i had heard it could over-take simpler piggy-backs (Apex'I SAFC, etc.) but i thought the unichip was a successful mod for the boost cut issues our cars have. is stand-alone the only real cure????
 
no, the real cure is finding what really is wrong and fixing it. he obviously has some sort of issue with the car. putting mods or piggys or standalones are just bandaids.

The car goes off of a base map till its up to operating temp, then it uses sensors. perhaps theres a bad sensor somewhere. maybe take it to someone who has a scantool adn can tell you if anything is out of wack (like coolant temp sensor or something). I know if coolant gets too hot itll pull timing like a mofo.

These problems are the toughest cause im assuming its not throwing a code. but i would try to fix it before you put more mods on cause then it will be even tougher to find.
 
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I am so interested in what the fix is for this. My MSP has the same exact issues. I only have a intake mod and no cat. I cleaned the EGR yesterday and it helped a little bit. I am going to do the non fouler fix and pcv cleaning and I hope it works but I feel you pain. I just got this car and so for it has been a headache.
 
quick easy way to see if that coolant sensor is bad, simply unplug the connector when its running bad and see if it idles bad... but for some reason Im really doubting thats your problem. Never know though! good luck.
 
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