mp3moose said:Is it worth going to a wideband on an NA setup?
Anytime you need to tune any A/F ratio you should use a WB. Doesnt matter how the engine processes the mixture. Via induced or forced it doesnt matter. A/F ratios still have to be monitored and tuned the same way. Just the mapping is different.Kooldino said:Not really.
perfworks said:Anytime you need to tune any A/F ratio you should use a WB. Doesnt matter how the engine processes the mixture. Via induced or forced it doesnt matter. A/F ratios still have to be monitored and tuned the same way. Just the mapping is different.
A/F ratios will depend on the level of performance you are looking for. Correct. BSFC rate will be higher for turbo charged cars ONLY when increasing fuel enrichment to prevent knock activity, lean spots and misfires. You are basically throwing fuel at it.Kooldino said:Yeah, but the range of a:f ratios you're looking at with a boosted car vs an N/A car are radically different...hence, it's really not worth laying out the cash for a WB, when you can get by with a NB.
Very true, just because you are tuning a N/A car does not mean you do not need to monitor a wide range of a/f's. You need to evaluate and monitor dips and peaks in the a/f ratio that will definetly surpass the stoich mixture. If you datalog a/f's graphically while you are tuning you will see what I am talking about. I tuned a n/a honda with an emanage and the a/f was all over the place. If I had a narrow band I would have never known. Also you want to tune a high powered N/A car in the mid to high 13 a/f range.....something the narrow band cant doA/F ratios will depend on the level of performance you are looking for. Correct. BSFC rate will be higher for turbo charged cars ONLY when increasing fuel enrichment to prevent knock activity, lean spots and misfires. You are basically throwing fuel at it.
Our standalone will come pretuned. There will be a correction needed for some vehicles with different induction systems. It would be nice to incorporate it as the ECU will correct it for you. Your target A/F ratio can be adjusted by the ECU. Otherwise the Standalone EMS will be able to run in closed loop also giving the same ability your stock ecu has to be efficient. Then when your transistion begins to open loop your specific application should utilize a WB to help fine tune your fuel and ignition curve.midnightracr said:Is it necesary to have this if you're running a Stand-Alone that comes pre-tuned. Now I do know even though they come pretuned they still need to be tuned. Would u tune it throgh the stand alone or the wideband?
perfworks said:A/F ratios will depend on the level of performance you are looking for. Correct. BSFC rate will be higher for turbo charged cars ONLY when increasing fuel enrichment to prevent knock activity, lean spots and misfires. You are basically throwing fuel at it.
MPNick said:A/F ratios will depend on the engine you are tuning. The level of performance you are looking does not change the AFR needed to get there. Most modern engines will run very high 12s to mid 13s AFR if they are a NA engine. You take any engine and start tuning for max power the AFR will stay very near the same as stock. Most of the time you will be leaner the stock. The cylinder burn rate, stroke, bore, and a few more things will determan the AFR. We are talking about V E levels here. Add a header, cam, and a intake and guess what? The AFR will not change much. When you reach the sweet spot of the engine the AFR will not change much unless you change the V E alot.
When tuning a turbo engine you never add fuel to prevent knock. Again when you reach the sweet spot with fuel and if you are still knocking you need to look at a few things. It may need less timing, less boost, more intercooler, higher octane or cam timing change. Do not get me wrong, if the AFR is at 15s yes you need more fuel. But if the exhaust temps are good and the AFR is good adding fuel is not the right way to go. This is how the OEM tuned back in the 80s. They still run richer the most tuners like but the OEM is looking at engine not lasting past the warranty. So they run them richer then they need to be. They have to think about the customer that will run 89 octane when they call for 93. They have to look at so many thing that they really tune out power on most cars.
You can spend all you want on WBs but it is still the same thing. It will come down to how well you tune your car. Tuners have been tuning cars well before the WBs were around. You have to be smart about what key you tap on your laptop. I like the idea of piggybacks because the OEM has already done alot of work for you in the tune department. Standalones are great for olders that have very slow computers. The EEC-V that you have is about as good as anything you will every find.
Thanks again
Later..........Nick
perfworks said:The fact of the matter is this thread touches on the subject of inaccuracy by the stock Narrowband sensor.
WB O2's are designed to accurately measure the A/F ratio thruout the entire RPM band, regardless of throttle position and drive cycle. The stock sensor is only good for Stoich reading and feedback to the ECU. If you would like to run 14.7 all the time then I guess you will be OK.
Research. That is where all logical info is based from. ALSO fact.MPNick said:Not sure where this info comes from. If the stock O2 was inaccuracte the new cars would not be able to run under power in closed loop. You have cars making over 500 hp from the factory now. They all use O2 sensors to run in closed loop.
How many race cars run Wideband O2s?
Thanks again
Later...........Nick
There is a big difference between running rich and running pig rich. Then there is the happy and safe medium for some. Do you know what the bars mean?mp5smuggler said:just started reading this thread. perf..... i have an autometer a/f gauge installed and im always reading that im running rich by like 2 or 3 green bars. when i spray it drops down into the orange (perfect range). if i get a wbo2 will these readings change? will i be shocked and see im running lean when i spray? will the autometer be accurate enough to read the change?
perfworks said:Research. That is where all logical info is based from. ALSO fact.
Narrow band O2 sensors are used in closed loop Stoich mixture control only.
ONLY.
They do not have the ability to accurately read above that point. They can however read a little leaner but only used for 14.7:1 calibrations.
The stock vehicles form the factory were tuned with WB's. ALL race cars run WBO2's. ALL of the proffessionally tuned ones at least. Please dont confuse yourself with closed loop and open loop feedback.
I'm glad you are proving my points. The cars that come from the factory are allready based tuned. They dont require WB's to do the job. Once modifying a street vehicle IT IS IMPOSSIBLE to get an accurate A/F reading with the stock NB sensor since its only function is for closed loop emmission control.MPNick said:Race cars are tuned on a dyno, they are tuned with both O2 and EGT. The WB that are used on the dynos cost over $800.00 for the sensor alone and they last less then 100 miles at best. Do you think that a $300.00-$400.00 WB kit is used to tune a $20,000.00 and up race engine? Race cars do not use O2 sensors for fuel control. OEM cars are tuned about the same way as race cars. They also need to look at exhaust gas emissions, NOX, HC, CO,CO2 and O2. The stock OEM O2 are used to read the exhaust, the range of the OEM is about 10.50 to 15.50 AFR.
WB do not last long and they no not like race fuel. This is one of the main reasons that no race engines use them to control fuel. No race engine will depend on a WB O2 for fuel control, they are never trusted. PLease show me one race engine that is run in closed loop, this is the only way the WB would control fuel. Most if not all of the WB kits are fast response sensors and not the WB as used on dynos.
Thanks again
Later..........Nick