stereo upgrades order of importance

[Craighjr]

Ok cool, few last questions so I can price and build this in my head first. For signal processers the RF 360's seems over kill if I am only technically powering 3 channels. Is the cheaper MTX ok for this case? I still have to tap the rear speaker outputs to drive the signal lines for the sub I assume? Would a 40x4 amp work, but more importantly would 80w be enought to drive a 10" sub? And my most pressing issue; Should I just buy the damn 800 dollar head unit with all the nav and blue tooth I want with a set of good front speakers some sound deadening and call it a day. Seems like the signal processor, amp and sub could really add up to over kill for what I want. It seems stupid to me to put 700 into the electronics end and still not have the great headunit features of the aftermarket.

 

[fourthmeal]

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[fourthmeal]

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[Craighjr]

Just wanted to bump this to see if some of these ideas will work for you, or if we need to work another solution.

So what I was looking at was 200 in sound deadening, 200 signal processor, 100 speakers, 250 dollar amp, 100 sub + a custom box (I have never worked with fiberglass so this could be a train wreck) I figure in the 1000 range for everything which is just too rich for my blood. I will drop that on a fmic, fuel pump, standback, turbo, or exhaust system but sadly not my stock based radio.

 

[tubebrner]

subbin for future reference

 

[fourthmeal]

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[Craighjr]

I aimed high on the prices because I didn't calculate shipping and stuff. I am really hung up on the headunit. Would a new unit and some front speakers with sound deadening still sound good with out a sub for now. Most cars I add the sub first but I am just not feeling that in my "race car". I 100% appreciate the time you have taken to go over this and explain what you think is best I just worry that it is overkill for me.

 

[rjs_speed3]

all you really need is an 8" subwoofer and a ported box

 

[fourthmeal]

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[fourthmeal]

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[rjs_speed3]

I Do NOT agree. There is a lot more to be done. A processor to recalculate a flat output to the amp, sound deadening since this car is a tin can when it comes to sound, and you still need an amp to go with that sub. Also, a ported box takes more room, so now you've got to build a box that is larger then a sealed box by roughly x2, and end up with a boomier sound potentially.

People dont' realize it, but you can't fit just any sub into any box. Each sub has its own parameters that suit it best, and a ported box requires a precision build. Combine the level of difficulty with the amount of space required, then add on the very nature of a hatchback being a car made to amplify certain bass frequencies, and a simple sealed 10" box becomes the best solution for this car.

Other cars fare differently, but ported boxes belong at home, IMO (unless you are prepared to invest a lot of time and patience in building one made right. If you are, then you are in for a treat.)

Im not that stupid... i had a system in my last car:

No crap you'll need an amp and the dimensions of a box as opposed to a specific subwoofer is only common sense, and i dont think an 8" subwoofer would really rock his car sooo much that he needs to spend a couple hundred dollars on dynomat... im just simply stating that if he wants a little more of a bump, (IMO) all he really needs is and 8" sub (not all that powerful) and a ported box (which makes it sound pretty powerful).. a ported box does make a difference in loudnes and in decibles.. an 8" sub isn't going to be too expensive at all, and with the right ported box, it would sound almost like a 12" sub... (and of course with the right amplifier also)

 

[fourthmeal]

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[RelliMS3]

fourthmeal, did you line your trunk with another material? it looks nice. Any threads with any more pics of your system?

 

[fourthmeal]

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