Steering making noise (2019 CX-9). Any ideas?

So at the top of the screen on the video there is a large jamb nut on the shaft. And the nut was 3/4 of a turn loose? I just wanted to clarify what you found. Nice for people in the future that have the same problem.
 
So at the top of the screen on the video there is a large jamb nut on the shaft. And the nut was 3/4 of a turn loose? I just wanted to clarify what you found. Nice for people in the future that have the same problem.
That is correct and when mazda looked they told me non serviceable and to replace, jamb nut is just a tad bigger then 1 inch but smaller then 1 1/16th
 
"jamb nut is just a tad bigger then 1 inch but smaller then 1 1/16th"
Sounds like 26 mm. If your fixed eliminated the noise, then maybe back it off, add a drop of blue Loctite on the threads, and retighten. (Red Loctite might be too difficult to remove in the future without heat if there's no room to get a big wrench in there.)
 
"jamb nut is just a tad bigger then 1 inch but smaller then 1 1/16th"
Sounds like 26 mm. If your fixed eliminated the noise, then maybe back it off, add a drop of blue Loctite on the threads, and retighten. (Red Loctite might be too difficult to remove in the future without heat if there's no room to get a big wrench in there.)
Drove 500km, 100 of that on service roads and not a peep.
 
That is correct and when mazda looked they told me non serviceable and to replace, jamb nut is just a tad bigger then 1 inch but smaller then 1 1/16th
Unbelievable. Dealer mechanics suck. If there is no DTC, or TSB telling them where to look the car is good. I never bring my stuff to a dealer unless I ABSOLUTELY have to.
 
Unbelievable. Dealer mechanics suck. If there is no DTC, or TSB telling them where to look the car is good. I never bring my stuff to a dealer unless I ABSOLUTELY have to.
Here's the crazy part, it's the same part in a John deere tractor only difference is the Mazda doesn't have a grease nipple on it
 
Thats cool! John Deere makes good stuff! Most automotive companies remove grease nipples years ago because people were over greasing and blowing out the seals, which led to water incursion. Good example of dumbing down maintenance. Haha
 
Thats cool! John Deere makes good stuff! Most automotive companies remove grease nipples years ago because people were over greasing and blowing out the seals, which led to water incursion. Good example of dumbing down maintenance. Haha
I punched the plug removed as much grease as I could and refilled based on how I do the tractor putting a nipple on the Mazda doesn't make much sense as you will never be able to reach the location easily
 
Thank you @Agape_365 for saving my sanity and lots of money!
I got the same issue a week ago (2018 with a bit over 60k miles). It appeared suddenly as knocks while going over speed bumps on the first day. And it got progressively worse on the second day as the sound was present with every turn of the steering wheel even when the car was jacked up.
Was going through all the usual suspects until came to the same discovery of free play of the intermediate shaft that you have in your video. I wasn't sure if it was the shaft or the motor in the steering wheel assembly. I feared that I would not like the results of a shop visit anyway :)
It took lots of googling before I found this thread, not a common issue it seems.
I can say it looks good even after just finger-tightening the nut - I drove about 50 miles yesterday, no sound, and the nut stayed in place. Need to get the right wrench today to properly tighten the nut.
 
Thank you @Agape_365 for saving my sanity and lots of money!
I got the same issue a week ago (2018 with a bit over 60k miles). It appeared suddenly as knocks while going over speed bumps on the first day. And it got progressively worse on the second day as the sound was present with every turn of the steering wheel even when the car was jacked up.
Was going through all the usual suspects until came to the same discovery of free play of the intermediate shaft that you have in your video. I wasn't sure if it was the shaft or the motor in the steering wheel assembly. I feared that I would not like the results of a shop visit anyway :)
It took lots of googling before I found this thread, not a common issue it seems.
I can say it looks good even after just finger-tightening the nut - I drove about 50 miles yesterday, no sound, and the nut stayed in place. Need to get the right wrench today to properly tighten the nut.
Mazda told me they wanted to replace the entire thing, there is a TSB out for it now. Ill see if i can find it i have it somewhere. Before u tighten it put a small dot of locktight. Keep it from backing off as soon.
 
Mazda told me they wanted to replace the entire thing, there is a TSB out for it now. Ill see if i can find it i have it somewhere. Before u tighten it put a small dot of locktight. Keep it from backing off as soon.
Yes, I've read that TSB somewhere. Funny that their solution was to increase the torque value on this nut. But I guess Mazda did not see value in just tightening the nut - much more profit in the replacement of the whole new steering wheel assembly, with the nut properly torqued :confused:
 
Yes, I've read that TSB somewhere. Funny that their solution was to increase the torque value on this nut. But I guess Mazda did not see value in just tightening the nut - much more profit in the replacement of the whole new steering wheel assembly, with the nut properly torqued :confused:
Dont increase the torque value just put a dot of locktight the join deere tractore has the same assembky i tried the torque value thing as thats what deere recomended you end up with stripped threads on rough roads. Now on the other hand if you havr them do it they should cover their work
 
Dont increase the torque value just put a dot of locktight the join deere tractore has the same assembky i tried the torque value thing as thats what deere recomended you end up with stripped threads on rough roads. Now on the other hand if you havr them do it they should cover their work
Are they going to replace it under warranty? That $4400 for that part seems high. I googled the part number and I thought it was around $1300, which is still high. Plus your invoice shows a superceded part. The part number I show as the most recent ends in a D
 
Are they going to replace it under warranty? That $4400 for that part seems high. I googled the part number and I thought it was around $1300, which is still high. Plus your invoice shows a superceded part. The part number I show as the most recent ends in a D
Little bit of that locktight i havent had a problem. So i am not going to bother.

I do alot of off road (non maintained forestry roads, cattle trails, overgrown dirt roads....) with the cx9

Things get loose.
 
One needs to read the fine print on the last page of a TSB to see if Mazda is paying for the fix for cars out of warranty or not. Safety recalls get every car fixed at Mazda's expense. TSBs...maybe, often not--like the cracked cylinder heads.
 
Could someone direct me to a video or somewhere that explains how to get to the jam nut in question. My girlfriend’s CX-9 has started to make the same clicking sound when turning, but I’m not the most technical savvy. Thanks in advance!
 
Could someone direct me to a video or somewhere that explains how to get to the jam nut in question. My girlfriend’s CX-9 has started to make the same clicking sound when turning, but I’m not the most technical savvy. Thanks in advance!
Sent u a dm
 
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