SSR Type C-RS (good company? 2 piece?)

[bushrat]

Don't use the overall score on the front page to compare the tires from different tests. Those numbers are relative. If you click on the graph tab in each test, you can get the raw data. You'll see the the summer tires outperform the all season tires in everything but wet traction. In wet traction, sometimes the all seasons are better.

Make sure you focus on the results that provide units of measure, such as seconds, distance or g forces. Ratings can be arbitrary and relative.

I'm disappointed that one of the tires I'm looking at, the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Max Performance summer tire isn't listed. It seems to be a good balance of performance and tread life, although a bit pricey.

 

[Sacrilicious]

ya, i was only talking about the raw data and not the rating numbers, bushrat. yes, the summer tires outperformed the all seasons on nearly all counts, but when you look at the margin by which they won by, it makes you really wonder why we're paying $60 more per tire. i mean, quite honestly, the vast majority of people will not be seeing the differences between those tires on the street. in fact, given street conditions, there's very few places i would dare push my car to the limits simply because i'd be afraid that i would hit a bump and go flying because my car bounced off the ground and slid too far onto the shoulder.

in addition to this all, let's not forget temperature conditions. this actually had me very concerned, because i live in new jersey, where temperatures are below what is comfortable for summer tires (40F-50F) for 4-5 months of the year. i mean, that basically blows chunks, cause now i have to decide whether i'm going to run on winter tires ALL of those months, whereas all season tires would allow me to shorten my winter tire months down to 2-3 months of the year.

like i said, under warm, dry conditions, there really isn't a doubt that the RE-01R's are better by a measurable margin, but what about the RE050A's that we run? they're not quite as good as the RE-01R's, which only puts them closer to the F1's in performance. at this point, i have to ask myself: why would i run RE050A's again when my stock tires wear out?

 

[bushrat]

You weren't so specific in your original post.

Definitely as a Jersey resident it may be something you want to consider. It looks like the all season might not be as bad as everyone makes them out to be. Plus, the RE050A's have good traction but poor tread life. There's really no reason to buy them again, considering what else is available on the market.

As a Florida resident, I'm only interested in summer tires.

 

[Sacrilicious]

As a Florida resident, I'm only interested in summer tires.

lol...i would be in the same boat as you if i were in FL!

 

[fourthmeal]

As a vegas resident, I can't help with the A/S tires either. However, I've lived in KS, and I know just how far you can make it on summer tires...Not even out of the driveway.

That said, this car deserves summer and winter tire sets.

IMO, concentrate on a high-silica compound that should do well in cold weather.

Also, keep in mind that the UTQG ratings of a tire are relative to a brand. One brand's 140 AA A can be another's 300 A A. Its all relative!

Goodyear has been working on cross-polymer technology, so maybe they figured it out.

 

[Hirudin]

First, fourthmeal, thank you for that long post! I'm trying to make the best buying decision possible so the more info the better.

OK, on an MS3 when going to bigger tires is it more likely for the tire to rub on the inside of the fender or the outside? It sounds like the outside, or lip, of the fender is what I should focus on avoiding.

Are these statements true?
1. For practical purposes a change of wheel width will not change the necessary offset.
2a. Each 10mm increase in tire width would necessitate a 5mm decrease in offset to maintain an equal distance from the outside of the tire and the fender lip.
2b. Increasing the tire width 10mm and decreasing the offset 5mm will bring the inside edge of the tire 10mm closer to the inside of the fender.

Also, I think you're right, if it's a smoother ride I'm after I should change the [edit]suspension[/edit], not the tires.

 

[Hirudin]

I'm in New Mexico, it can get pretty cold in the Winter here. Also, traveling from one area to another can be an elevation change of one or two thousand feet with all the possible weather changes that entails. I was thinking that I would get all-season tires so I could run them year round. And if I got wider tires that might compensate for having less-sticky rubber.

Argh this confusing!

 

[fourthmeal]

Correct on all counts, except I would recommend not touching the shocks. The shocks are tuned very nicely to this car. Go with progressive springs like MS ones. Swampass likes his, and the drop was minimal.

I believe you are more worried about the outer lip rubbing. You can roll the outer fender lip if its bad.

When in doubt, go with a 235 tire!


edit, don't forget that a 245/47-17 is a mustang gt tire. I've owned one, and I can tell you that the wider a tire is, the worse it is in the snow. Narrow is better sometimes.

 

[Hirudin]

Correct on all counts, except I would recommend not touching the shocks. The shocks are tuned very nicely to this car. Go with progressive springs like MS ones.
...

Heh... sorry I forget that "shocks" is not synonymous with "suspension".

 

[Sacrilicious]

actually, tires can make a huge difference in ride quality. usually, the more rubber you put between you and the road, the more less you will feel it. sooo...for example: 235/45/17 would absorb shock better than 215/45/17 simply because the sidewall is higher. also, if you get different materials for your tires (like when you switch from touring to summer tires), that will make the ride change. summer tires usually have rougher rides than all season and touring tires, but better grip/handling.

 

[Sacrilicious]

oh, and it sounds like you're in a similar situation as me when it comes to weather. if you're not willing to go get yourself a whole new set of wheels to put dedicated winter tires on, then i would suggest going with all season tires. you shouldn't be continuously removing tires from their wheel, since it degrades the quality of the seal between tire and rim over time, so you should just pick a tire for a rim and stick with it. if that is the case, then if you have cold weather to drive in, you should either have a separate wheel with the winter tire or get a tire for your wheels that handles all weather conditions well enough.

 

[Hirudin]

I found a post that may interest anyone else wanting to use 245/45 17s...

I have put 245/45 R17 in the front and it didnt rub at all. i tested them out and they where good i could take coners and everything and no rubing .i had evo stocks on =D. but in the back i had 235/45 r17 and it rubed on the fender, but that can be fixed all u would have 2 do is bend the inside a lil up and thats it cuz it only hits the vary outside of the tire =\. but i think with difrent rims it would be better the evo rims flare 2 much Looks ok but would look better if they didnt pop out as much =) (i wish i had taken a pic of the evo with my stocks on there LMFAO so funny =P)

Of course, the fronts are a little funny looking and the rears are smaller... but it IS possible.

 

[Sacrilicious]

haha...ya, i wouldn't do that unless it was just for show, cause now you can't rotate your tires from front to back...^^;

 

[Young Roids]

^^so in other words you probly can't get 245s to fit all around since he was having the 235s scrapping in the rears.

 

[Young Roids]

One more thing, Anyone know the offset specs on those evo wheels?

 

[xelderx]

Just food for thought...

3rd Gen FD RX-7 wheels are 16X8 with a +50mm offset. They will fit on a MS3 with 245/45-16 Hankook RS-2 tires on all four corners without rubbing. I did have to bore out the centerbore of the rims to fit the MS3 hubs. No issues with brake caliper clearance, but it was close. I did a few autoX runs with this setup and everything felt great. It looked good too.

 

[Hirudin]

Hmmm.. interesting!

So, with a slight decrease in diameter it's possible to go wider...
Here's the specs for both wheels:

Original tire (215/45 18)
-Sidewall: 3.81 in
-Radius: 12.81 in
-Diameter: 25.62 in
-Circumf: 80.48 in
-Revs/mile: 787.26

New Tire (245/45 16)
-Sidewall: 4.34 in
-Radius: 12.34 in
-Diameter: 24.68 in
-Circumf: 77.54 in
-Revs/mile: 817.15

Speedometer reading with new tire is 3.66% too fast.
When your speedometer is reading 60mph you are actually traveling 57.72mph.

 

[xelderx]

There are some good tires made in 245/50-16 as well which will get the speedo back to near stock specs. I can't confirm on the rubbing issue though as the tires would be about .5" taller with regards to fender clearance (1" diameter increase).