Spec stage 3+ clutch and lightweight flywheel made it SLOWER!!!

that clutch probably needs a break in period. Be careful not to burn the clutch when its new as well. stage 3 seems a little aggresive for your mods

i did break it in already for 650 miles and i got the stage 3+ because i'm doing more to my car very soon
 
Originally Posted by Outlawstar98 View Post
The lightened flywheel rocks, it does spool sooner :P haha

Should spool later. As mentioned above by reducing the rotating mess you take load off the engine, which is what helps build boost. Between the lightweight flywheel and underdrive crank pulley I can't build more than a few psi in first gear. In second I max around 9 psi and in the others I can build a full 10 psi. I just like the flywheel because it offsets the loss in low-en torque I got from switching to the 626 IM.
 
Typically a lightened flywheel takes rotational mass off of the engine, which in turn will let the engine spin easier. This will of course spool the turbo up faster, however you will also loose revs faster between shifts and when not on the throttle so you will loose boost quicker.
 
the difference in mass with have little effect on when your turbo hits full boost. It will almost certainly kill your launch though. I would put more up to needing to relearn how launch the car then a problem with the product.
 
My car has had a whining noise ever since i got the trans mount installed, but the noise i'm talking about isn't whining. I don't really know how to explain what it sounds like. Just loud as ****. You hear everything happening. When you push in the clutch the noise goes away. then you take your foot off the clutch and then it's super loud again

What other mods do you have on the car? Somethiing seems off on your 40-100 mph times. Are you sure you did both before and after runs from 40-100 mph? Were you using a stopwatch or what kind of timer?

Pulling 30-100 or 40-100 with a good stopwatch is a good way to measure gains, because you are avoiding the variations in difficult launches.

But something about those times does not ring right for some reason.
 
As someone pointed out above the throw out bearing could be whining.

Also please be more specific about your launch procedure. Due to less weight and inertia a lightened fly wheel can aften allow easier wheelspin at lower RPM's (especially with lots of torque on hand) which could be your problem.
 
Is everyone blind? He said 40-100 so there's no reason to talk about launching here.

Yes some of us read too quickly or are blind, myself included.

Now I am too embaressed to add additional relevant information to the 40-100 MPH dilema.(bolt)
 
What other mods do you have on the car? Somethiing seems off on your 40-100 mph times. Are you sure you did both before and after runs from 40-100 mph? Were you using a stopwatch or what kind of timer?

Pulling 30-100 or 40-100 with a good stopwatch is a good way to measure gains, because you are avoiding the variations in difficult launches.

But something about those times does not ring right for some reason.

I'm recording the speedometer with a mounted camera then using a stopwatch to time the recorded run. I time it like 10 times then just average my times.
 
I'm recording the speedometer with a mounted camera then using a stopwatch to time the recorded run. I time it like 10 times then just average my times.

The reason I am asking is that those time, even the ones after the clutch change, seem too good. Way too good for our cars. 40-100 times in the 7's or low 8's would translate into solid 12 second quarter mile times.

Maybe your camera plays back at a faster speed than it records? Try real time with your stopwatch and compare. Or consider checking with a different stopwatch. I think you are being very honest. I just think there is something wrong with the accuracy of your measurements.

Just as food for thought, the web site of Road and Track has the acceleration curves for four seriously fast, quick cars all capable of running the quarter in 12.5-13.0 seconds:

http://www.roadandtrack.com/assets/download/0608_comp_chart.pdf

(chart is too large to post here)

The quickest of the four, the MB C63 AMG (12.5 second quarter) took 7.3 seconds to cover 40-100.

The BMW M3 Sedan took 8.3 seconds and covered the quarter in 13.0 seconds.

This would put your car in the high 12 second range! If you were almost a full second quicker than an M3 from 40-100 you'd be putting some serious hurt on him from a roll. I don't think that likely.

I'm also attaching the link to the acceleration curve for the new 370Z and a Porsche Cayman S, probably a more valid comparison.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/assets/download/0409_rt_caymanVS370z_chart.pdf

I think a properly driven MS3 with mild mods can take a stock 370Z, at least from a roll. The Cayman S, running 13.3 quarters takes 9.3 seconds for its 40-100 run, and would eat us alive unless we are very heavily modded and/or running drag slicks.

I follow this kind of stuff - not sure why. I guess I just want to know where we are in the automotive "pecking order." (Which cars I can pick on and which I should stay clear of - lol). But knowing these things made me think your measurements were off due to bad instrumentation or bad technique.

By comparison, my MS3 with mods in sig below, runs 40-100 in 9.5-9.7 seconds, depending on conditions, about dead even with the Z.

Your new clutch may be acting up, but I don't think those measurements you posted are accurate enough to help us find the the solution.
 
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My car has had a whining noise ever since i got the trans mount installed, but the noise i'm talking about isn't whining. I don't really know how to explain what it sounds like. Just loud as ****. You hear everything happening. When you push in the clutch the noise goes away. then you take your foot off the clutch and then it's super loud again

Noise while the clutch is engaged. Not clear exactly what this noise sounds like, but it is louder and different than with the stock clutch. Could be several reasons. In an effort to assist with the diagnosis, maybe this link would help the OP to better identify the sound or to find the problem:

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/clutch_and_flywheel/clutch_trouble_diagnosis_guide.html

There are other clutch manufacturers with similar self-help, self-diagnosis links on their sites. I just selected this one as a typical example. Hope this gets you closer to your problem.
 
i had a stage 3 on my stock lx protege.. lol. didn't make any real noises that i could tell...

anyways, throw out bearing seems probable, especially if they just used your old bearing and didn't put a new one in.. assuming you had a shop do the job.

and that's super weird man.. pull it apart, make sure that everything is torqued down. check for issues on the flywheel/pressure plate.. could be a manufactured defect..

seems like a real waste of a stage 3 clutch, lol. subaru clutches must be alot different than mazda clutches as far as the stages go
 

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