Sound dampening

nsxdemon

Member
K I'm starting my fiberglass sub box tomorrow and was planning on having the sub (EDesign 12A.22 w/ 1100W) firing back towards the hatch door.

Obviously it's gonna rattle, so dampening material's a given. Where's the best place to get it, and what brand/company should I go with (dynamat, brown bread, etc)?

Any suggestions on how many feet I should start with? I'm just planning on doing the trunk/hatch area, but I'm not sure ifI should use a couple of layers on the hatch door since the sub's firing that way.

Cheers
 
Whynot look to eD? They've got good pricing, and actually tehre's a group-buy listed on their forum if you wanna get the v3 paint on stuff as well... Just get a bunch and use it as you go as long's you've got $ for it at the moment... I got a 20' roll and it lasted me a decent bit, but more's better and you can always pile on the layers. Edead and our speaker setup=good...

stylebiter... *L* (j/k)
 
oh and for the hatch, make sure you do alot of weather stripping on the plastic panel, that's what rattles the most. Along wiht the lisence plate holder.
 
if your wanting to save on money wait till you get the sub in there and then start finding the rattles and tackling them one by one. this will be the most effective way of doing it on a budget, or you can just do like me and put a few hundred square foot of the stuff everywhere. most of the brands out there all do the same thing.partsexpress and mcmasters sells generic dampening wich works the same.
 
Poseur said:
Whynot look to eD? They've got good pricing, and actually tehre's a group-buy listed on their forum if you wanna get the v3 paint on stuff as well
Hey that paint stuff looks really sweet! But where exactly is the EDesign forum? They're got a bunch of different sites listed, but I can't find a forum on their own site.

I'll prolly wait till I finish the box, but if I can get on the group buy then I'll salvage the money for it!

Thanks guys


P.S: Poseur, now that I've got your attention, how do you deal with a broken bike chain 15 miles from anywhere? A link got damaged somehow (bent outta shape), so I pushed out the pin on that link with a rock and tried using a small branch off the ground (which obviously snapped going up a hill). Any ideas? I don't think the chain tool and a spare pin woulda helped since the link was pretty screwed.
 
Here, everyne hold onto this link. It's good for a VERY healthy discount for nothing... I really think, though that for effectiveness the v.1 is hard to beat. Plus with v1 you can use it for things like stretching over your doorpanel to make a new "skin" if you pull the plastic.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/miva/me...n=PROD&Product_Code=eDeadv3sin&Category_Code=

Asfor the bikechain, get a chaintool first and foremost. I actually hav a bikechain bracelet that's been on my wrist constantlyfor 9yrs now, but Generally I recommend that if/when you get a new chain that you save the extra couplefew links and put them in your bag or whatever.. From there, screw spare pins, Get a KMC missing link, or better yet, get two or more of them. THey take up prettymuch no room, and are super easy to slap on, plus you can then pull your chain back apart at anytime with a pair of pliers... I personally alwas have a couple lengths of 9 and 8speed chain, a Park micrchain brute and 2 each 9 & 8speed missinglinks... 'course when you're the shop-dude that's kinda necessary. Really you shouldn't evne need the extra chain, though. you can almost always shorten your chain by a link (it's actually 2 links to get t to matchup right again) I'd recommend bareinimum carryging some form of chaintool and a couple missing links... For tool, I'm also a big fan of the Crank bro's micro 17. they're like $20 and have damn near anything you'd ever need.
 
I would like to redirect this back to his original question. I too just added speakers to my setup. I now have a total of 12 speakers in my car. It doesn't rattle much, mostly just the trunk and license plate area. I wanted to Dynamat just the trunk, but that is like $99 for the Dynamat trunk kit. So I spoke to some audio expert friends of mine, who suggested Brown Bread, FatMat, BQuiet. The price varies so much, as do the applications. Some are thicker, some heavier, and some liquid, so easier to apply. I want something light, as my car is a turbo, and I need to save on weight. I want something effective, because I hate to throw away money, its a Scottish thing (or so is my excuse ;) So finally, price will make the final decision. Once I narrow down the other issues, the best value will win out. I keep hearing good things about Brown Bread for all of the above criteria. They are sold out on the website. Does anyone know where to get this, and if it is the best? The eDesign stuff looked sweet, but how effective is it? Any help would be great. I just installed a Kenwood eXcelon component set in the back windows, and ran the tweeters up to the B-pillars facing at the front seats, to surround the front seats with highs. I also added an Infinity 12.1 Perfect sub with MTX 2-channel (not currently hooked up), and 4-channel amps to push everything.

Thanks!
 
if money is an issue i'd start off with simple foam. allot of things that cauase rattle can be fixed without mass loading materis wich is basically what your dampening sheets do. plastic panels can be pulled off, slide some foam between the two then placed back on. do this as much as possible in all areas u can find with rattles. i like to use door weatherstipping, and headliner material. its cheap and does the job, now once you have taken care of the rattles just move on to the next loudest area and do what you can afford. just find areas that are rattling and work at it piece by piece.
 
you will need to do the wing too -- the wing was the worst and loudest rattle i had -- and my subs are firing up :) --
know i have to get my front grill and plate from rattling :)
 
oh, yea yank your spoiler pronto.. There's a how-to on it now, and it's a cheap (wetherstripping) fix.. I suspect mine was even rattling withmy factory spare tire sub *L*
 
i got my deadening material called Second Skin Damplifier from a guy named "ifandorbuts" over on caraudio.com its a fourm members get 45% off i got 100sq ft for like $160 i believe, free shipping for memebers, its good stuff, doesnt smell like brown bread and is way cheaper than dynamat
 
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nictlg7 said:
I would like to redirect this back to his original question...... I now have a total of 12 speakers in my car. ......... I want something light, as my car is a turbo, and I need to save on weight. .........


Hummmm this sounds interesting has 12 speakers and wants to save on weight!!! well your not helping anything by putting 12 speakers in your car plus the adding of amps. i dont think that dynamating your trunk will put that much weight on your ride. if so then maybe take out a speaker or two. (screwy)
 
dynamat is heavy -- even if you only do the trunk -- i did my whole car from front to back and top to bottom ---- i think i added about 200lbs just for the dynamat and about 260-300lbs total including amps sub and box ---

so if you want to save on weight then invest in quality not quantity :)
 
holy resurrection batman? any reason for bringing back a halfyear old thread?
 
cause it popped up into my listed subscriptions folder --- so i responded like you ;) hehe


and i didnt read the date -- just saw something about dynamat and weight so i replied -- :)
 
*L* not givin you the hard time at all man. I think them alaskans start going crazy this time'a year getting ready for their 4month night time.
 
Poseur said:
*L* not givin you the hard time at all man. I think them alaskans start going crazy this time'a year getting ready for their 4month night time.
Well I am lookin at doin some work on my P5 and I saw this thread and laughed. Man yeah its pretty dark most of the day now. yeah we are only gettin 8 1/2hrs of daylight now!! Time to start plannin for winter projects!!
 
I'm planning to get Edead v1 SE.... how much will 20sq ft do?? Is that enough for the front doors?? and some for the trunk?
 
depends on your layers, I'd say 20 would be adequate for both doors. Try to get as much against the outer skin before you cover your inners, and I'd do atleast 2layers on that..
 
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