So I want to buy an RX-7...

Sure 440's are going to be enough for that setup? I could be wrong but may be worth grabbing some turbo 550cc injectors.
Good catch, I just noticed the stock injectors are 440's so yeah, definitely going to have to go bigger. I have a pretty large selection however because the EFI Hardware kit uses a 14 mm Bosch-style injector boss. I might actually be better off staggering the injector sizes. Perhaps some 440's for down-low regular driving and then some 720's or so for when really getting on it. The smaller injectors would definitely increase the drivability at low RPM.

I've been looking at Tweakit's site some more and they have a PnP kit for the Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 ECU. However, I probably can't use this as I won't be using a lot of the stock idle/TB control sensors. I'll probably just go the old Protege way of severing the ignition and fuel wires from the stock ECU and then just running those off the Haltech with its own sensors. Sure, it means more wires and sensors in the engine bay but at least this way the stock gauges will still work. This is assuming the RX-7 behaves like the Protege with aftermarket ECU's. I'll have to look into their PnP kit some more to see if this is required.
 
I know we discussed it early but with all this work your going to be premixing right?
I actually hadn't considered it. From what I understand the electric OMP works just fine. I know some people add like 2 oz. of premix per gallon of gas, even more if they have removed the OMP altogether. Even so, I've yet to really read anything that suggests there is a serious advantage to premixing.
 
I actually hadn't considered it. From what I understand the electric OMP works just fine. I know some people add like 2 oz. of premix per gallon of gas, even more if they have removed the OMP altogether. Even so, I've yet to really read anything that suggests there is a serious advantage to premixing.

Reason to premix is to have less carbon in the chamber, you end up with more carbon burning your motor oil....and its 1oz w/o omp and .5 oz w/ omp per gallon

And the reason I am asking is your talking about going stand alone I am not 100% on this but I can't imagine a stand alone has a provision for an electrical omp
 
Reason to premix is to have less carbon in the chamber, you end up with more carbon burning your motor oil....and its 1oz w/o omp and .5 oz w/ omp per gallon

And the reason I am asking is your talking about going stand alone I am not 100% on this but I can't imagine a stand alone has a provision for an electrical omp
D'oh! You are absolutely right. Well I suppose adding a bit of premix really isn't all that big of a deal. Aside from removing the OMP, is there anything else that is needed? Damn, I'm really going to be stripping down the engine now!
 
D'oh! You are absolutely right. Well I suppose adding a bit of premix really isn't all that big of a deal. Aside from removing the OMP, is there anything else that is needed? Damn, I'm really going to be stripping down the engine now!

Lol its cool...as I am figuring it out as I go along there are a lot of little things that need to be done or looked at ect. Case and point messing around with the oiling system weak link in the front of the e shaft. it makes a lot more sense when you dive into it though.
 
Lol its cool...as I am figuring it out as I go along there are a lot of little things that need to be done or looked at ect. Case and point messing around with the oiling system weak link in the front of the e shaft. it makes a lot more sense when you dive into it though.
Yep, I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before getting the car. Like I've said a couple times now I'm deciding what to do ahead of time and sticking with it. I've sent an email to Tweakit asking for advice on the EFI Hardware kit and I've also sent a note to RX7Store asking if they have any experience with N/A builds with ITB's (and Haltech's).
 
Argh, another annoying thing about the car pointed out by the fiance'. Apparently she had a hell of a time locking the car up after letting it run for a bit. She said she kept locking and shutting the doors and then they would unlock themselves. Granted, we know the driver's side door lock does not work, but I have no idea what would be causing this. Another electrical gremlin? My first thought was, crap, someone had installed a keyless entry at some point and it's now screwing up. I don't suppose the RX-7 has some kind of anti-lock-yourself-out-of-the-car thing, does it? On my old '86 Pickup, that did not have power locks, you had to hold up the handle when closing the door otherwise it would unlock when closed.
 
Lol yeah mine used to do that two things...first off the rx7 is like that where you have to hold the handle up (at least mine is) secondly the rx7 has "power locks" if you push down on the drivers lock the passenger should lock itself and it works the same by using the key. I had a problem where the drivers lock was wedging against the door panel and as soon as lock would move a slight bit the electric kicked in and popped both up.
 
Yep, spoke with the fiance' and that did the trick.

Spoke with the guys at RX7Store and they are suggesting going with a full bridge port and a Microtech ECU (didn't say which model). I did some more research on bridge ports and I'm pretty sure I could live with it but I have to run it by the fiance'. I had always been set on the Haltech based on experience from the Protege but I guess a LT8S could also be an option. I just like how Haltech offers all the sensors themselves. I guess it really doesn't matter as long as it can control two rotors, tune based on both TPS and MAP, and idle up for things like A/C them I'm cool with it.
 
So I'm going to bump this because I'm trying to figure out the wheel/tire fitment of the FC. RX7club is all over the place on this thing and despite the comprehensive listing on fc3spro.com I'm still confused. He'll (Ted) will say a certain offset is a minimum and then will go onto saying that fender rolling/pulling may be required. I don't know about everyone else but I don't consider it a tolerance when it requires fender modification. He's my dilemma:

Enkei RPF1's - I want to go no larger than 16's so I'm thinking either 16x8 all around or 16x7/16x8 F/R. If I went 16x8 all around the tire size would be 225/50 or if I staggered them it would be 225/50 front and 245/45 rear. Now the problem is offset. I've read quite a bit and from what I can tell hovering around +30 mm is a pretty safe bet. Now I'm not into the 'super-flush' and streched tire like but I also don't like my wheels tucked under the car. It seems the safe bet would be 16x8 + 32 mm with 225/50R16 for 16x8 all around or 16x7 +35 mm with 225/50R16 up front and 16x8 +32 mm with 245/45R16 in the rear for staggered. My fear here is that the wheels will still be too 'tucked'. Unfortunately Enkei doesn't offer a large range of offsets in these sizes so the next down is +25 mm for the 7" width and +15 mm for the 8" width.

I'm mainly interested in the RPF1's because for the price you can't beat the weight and the looks. The only other wheel I really like is the Volk CE28N, which does come in a greater range of offsets and weighs slightly less, but they're over twice the price!
 
cant offer you too much help here as i havent researched it much but i think if you go with the +32/+35 off set you can always add spacers to push them out further to the edge.

the +15 will fit with some rolling...but then again people have stuffed Starion rear wheels into the back of the FC so its definatly possible to get a +15 in there with minimum work.
 
cant offer you too much help here as i havent researched it much but i think if you go with the +32/+35 off set you can always add spacers to push them out further to the edge.

the +15 will fit with some rolling...but then again people have stuffed Starion rear wheels into the back of the FC so its definatly possible to get a +15 in there with minimum work.
I know I could always add spacers that's no fun. I would just suck to get a +32 mm wheel only to add spacers to make it a 15 mm wheel when 15 mm would have worked in the first place. A little rolling wouldn't bother me but I'm still concerned with the fitment. A lot of people that push the higher offsets run these dinky little tires to clear the fender. If I run 8's in the back I'm going to go with a tire that fits - 245/45R16. That will be a pretty square tire on an 8" wide wheel. It's unfortunate that all those running offsets like this are into the stretched tire look.
 
Yeah I don't understand the tire stretch thing either...kinda like the honda thing now is 0 offset wheels.

I gotta check the offset on my 16's they are the factory 16x7 turbo wheels but they sit tucked in the well which I don't like.
 
Yeah I don't understand the tire stretch thing either...kinda like the honda thing now is 0 offset wheels.

I gotta check the offset on my 16's they are the factory 16x7 turbo wheels but they sit tucked in the well which I don't like.
I believe all factory wheels have an offset of +40 mm, based off of what I've read. What's so confusing is that I'll see one setup that claims to be +30-ish and it'll look perfect and then another will look way to tucked. Alternatively some +15 look way to high, yet another set will look just fine. This is driving me nuts!
 
do what i did when i got the wheels for the 3. Put a string and plum bar to the outside of the fender, measure the distance to the point where the wheel will sit. (find a inch to mm conversion online)
trying to think of the process in my head, give me a second...
 
so you have ure distance from your brake rotor to the outside edge of the fender. take the off set of the wheel, plus half the width of the tire should tell you how it will fit. i think something along those lines, but your an engineer and i'm sure you could/ already have figured this out..
 
What works best for me is the same technique you are saying plus I divide the width of the wheel in half and convert to metric. The offset subtracts from that and tells you where the wheel will fit. Seems more complicated, but it is more simple in my mind.
 
Yeah, I have the process you guys are mentioned pretty well defined in my mind, the problem comes down to manufacturing tolerances. A 8" wide wheel from one company will not be the same from another as many measure their wheels differently. The same applies to tires. In addition to what you guys have outlined I also need wheel and tire widths and how they are defined, which isn't too hard to find. The problem is the over all width changes per the wheel/tire combo used. Also, my fear when getting close to the fenders is that small computation errors and assumptions can easily change whether a wheel/tire combo will fit or not. But yes, this is a start at least. I was mainly curious if any of the other RX-7 owners here had any experience. RX7club is seriously a clusterfuck...
 
Yeah, I have the process you guys are mentioned pretty well defined in my mind, the problem comes down to manufacturing tolerances. A 8" wide wheel from one company will not be the same from another as many measure their wheels differently. The same applies to tires. In addition to what you guys have outlined I also need wheel and tire widths and how they are defined, which isn't too hard to find. The problem is the over all width changes per the wheel/tire combo used. Also, my fear when getting close to the fenders is that small computation errors and assumptions can easily change whether a wheel/tire combo will fit or not. But yes, this is a start at least. I was mainly curious if any of the other RX-7 owners here had any experience. RX7club is seriously a clusterfuck...
haha about rx7 club.

lot of tire manufactors put actual width and heights of the tire on their websites. your wheel will never come in contact with the fender, so it will come down to tire height and width, and rim offset. anywhoo... good luck man, sorry i dont have experience with rx7 wheels
 
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