I can't say I've ever had a car "glaze" through a corner (whatever that means), but yeah... just because you can mad-d0r33ft0rz it sideways through a corner because of the crazy toe change doesn't mean it's the better way. And it's definitely not the way to have a stable platform.
So I want to buy an RX-7...
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
I can't say I've ever had a car "glaze" through a corner (whatever that means), but yeah... just because you can mad-d0r33ft0rz it sideways through a corner because of the crazy toe change doesn't mean it's the better way. And it's definitely not the way to have a stable platform.
SpooledupRacing
Banned
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- 86' RX-7 modded
lol again if you know how the car will respond (because its the same EVERY TIME) then it works to the drivers advantage..
its another form of "rear steer" helps the car corner great
Ok... I've driven RX7s at the limit. And I've driven my S2000 at the limit (no, not on the street). And yes, it's repeatable, and exact the same every time. But it still makes for a twitchy chassis that's hard to hang on to at 100% cornering force.
But hey if you like them, I guess I can't convince you that your opinion is wrong
But hey if you like them, I guess I can't convince you that your opinion is wrong
Jumping into this coversation is probably a mistake because my knowledge of rx-7's is far out matched by you guys. lol But, I will say this, when I had my gtus, it went thru corners so smoothly and effortlessly. My input is one sided as I can't say anything about having the dtss bushings removed. But with the dtss bushings in there, I loved how you could just throw out the rear end ever so slightly and it would practically "auto'pilot" through the rest of the slide/turn. They work great!
Damn I miss having an fc...
Damn I miss having an fc...
What's all this suspension arguing going on in here? I'll probably end up removing the DTSS bushings just because I don't like things that are there to "help" you drive. I don't care if they're awesome if the still work and when I get used to them. The suspension will be getting coilovers (bye bye AAS), swaybars, adjustable endlinks, and all new bushings, etc. I don't want to get into adjustable camber links - I'm not going to be drifting and I definitely don't want to cut into the body. All the mounts (engine, transmission, differential) will be replaced when I pull the engine out at some point.
Man, I just want the car NOW!
Man, I just want the car NOW!
I feel bad for you... lol This summer will be torture. (rei)
Your going to need an adjustable camber "link" though to fix the rear camber after you lower it. No cutting or hacking required its actually made to reduce the camber your gonna get.
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Been doing some reading. I'll likely be keeping the stock clutched-fan unless I can find a good, shrouded aftermarket fan, which appears unlikely. It's just that from what I've read it really isn't necessary unless you need space for a larger radiator or intercooler pipes. Since the latter is unlikely to happen (unless I go 20B) I'll just pickup the Corksport radiator and shroud. In the meantime I've been making a list of all the maintenance actions I will be performing and the parts I need to replace. As it seems, I'm likely to spend most of my budget on this alone:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Oil
Oil Filter
Air Filter (probaby go with a cone filter and a MAS adapter)
Fuel Filter
Oxygen Sensor
Pulsation Damper (and primary fuel rail)
Brake Fluid
Transmission Fluid
Differential Oil
Full Energy Suspension Upgrade (sans swaybar bushings as those will be replaced anyway)
Coolant
Brake Rotors
Brake Pads
Belts
I'll also probably do the following at least:
SS Brake Lines
SS Clutch Line
Mazdaspeed Competition Motor/Trans/Diff Mounts
So what am I missing?
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Oil
Oil Filter
Air Filter (probaby go with a cone filter and a MAS adapter)
Fuel Filter
Oxygen Sensor
Pulsation Damper (and primary fuel rail)
Brake Fluid
Transmission Fluid
Differential Oil
Full Energy Suspension Upgrade (sans swaybar bushings as those will be replaced anyway)
Coolant
Brake Rotors
Brake Pads
Belts
I'll also probably do the following at least:
SS Brake Lines
SS Clutch Line
Mazdaspeed Competition Motor/Trans/Diff Mounts
So what am I missing?
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Fuel pump sock, or at least cleaning it
Clutch slave if you do the ss line
Its an s5 so you won't need a mas adapter for the cone filter you just need a silicon couple for the maf (I have a how to in this section) also I suggest buying or building a filter box as the filter will heat soak. And as well with the s5 the pulsation dampner is built onto the primary fuel rail.
Your right about the fan you don't HAVE to change it (make sure its working as well) but it frees up A LOT of room in the engine bay and seeing as you can pick up a cheap taurus or fiero(what I am running) fan from a junk yard its an easy thing to build. But to each their own.
Ah, forgot about the fuel sock... What about the clutch slave needs working? Also, I wasn't aware the S5's didn't need a MAS adapter - every kit I've seen for them (not that I would buy a kit) has one, even those marketed as being solely for '89-'91 FC's. But for the intake I'm probably going to make my own complete kit and not reuse the factory hose (I think it's ugly). It shouldn't be too hard to get some 2.5" or 3" aluminum piping and make something like Corksport sells. THe only difficult part would be the TB connection... As for the fan, I'm not too keen on getting a used one out of another car. The ones I've seen, even the ones claiming to be a "perfect fit" like the Fiero, don't look right to me. I'd just as much get like a 15" SPAL puller and make my own shroud, but even then I don't exactly need the extra space.
The reason I say the clutch slave (and this was recomended to me by dave when I pick up my ss line) is that the slave cylinder seals have a lot more stress on them using the ss line as opposed to the rubber line. If anything a slave rebuild kit would work as well just to refresh those seals.
The s4 has a vaf which needs that adapter and the s5 uses a maf sort of like the protege (much crapier maf design on the rx7 though). In making your own intake like you said the hard part is going to be making the compresion tube. Besides the compresion tube you could easily make your own intake though.
The s4 has a vaf which needs that adapter and the s5 uses a maf sort of like the protege (much crapier maf design on the rx7 though). In making your own intake like you said the hard part is going to be making the compresion tube. Besides the compresion tube you could easily make your own intake though.
Gotcha. Corksport sells a cast TB flange it looks like so I could always go with that I suppose. I just can't justify spending over $100 on something like the Apexi kit, which is pretty much just a filter. I can buy a 3" AEM dryflow for like $40! The same goes for CS's aluminum intake pipe - if it weren't for the TB flange it'd be cake to make something like that. I wonder if there are any pre-made flanges out there...
So the P5 is officially gone and I've managed to sell just about everything from the car leaving me approximately $5k total to spend or save. I am now trying to plan what I want to do with this car because I don't want to make the same mistake I made with the P5 and end up bouncing back and forth between options. Obviously with the RX-7 there are three options: staying N/A 13B, going 13B turbo a la TII engine/transmission/rear end, etc. or the pipe dream - going with a 20B. Obviously the first is the easiest and will make the least power, the second is a good compromise but kills reliability and the third is absurd. I'd love to rock a N/A 20B in this thing but the practical side of me starts screaming when I think about it ($20k price tag?!). Is it possible to get 200+ whp and a reliable driver out of the 13B? Honestly, I'd be happy with 225 whp...
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
I would say the best thing for you to do would be to hold off and wait till you come across a really good condition TII. With that you can easily reach your goal. Buying an N/A and then making it turbo will be more trouble than its worth to just wait to find a nice TII
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
lol totally missed that
Yep, I have a '89 GXL that my fiance' is currently "holding onto" for me (see avatar and sig, LOL). I don't plan on doing a TII swap so I'd really like to stay N/A. Not shooting for big power, 225 whp or so would be nice and everything else would be added lightness and suspension. I just want a fun car that I can take out and drive whenever I want. From what I've read a TII swap isn't difficult - the hard part is getting all the parts. Either way, turbo rotaries worry me as far as reliability goes.
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