2013~2016 Skyactiv Spark Plug Question

[theblooms]

So when changing spark plugs for the '16 CX-5 sport, do we need to apply the anti seize?

NGK's website specifically says no. However, because of personal experience, I still use a tiny dab. Now mind you, when you use anti-sieze, the torque settings goes down to about 80% of the recommendation. So, take them down finger right, then just snug them up. Whatever you do, don't kill it. No reason at all.

 

[txt990]

Is it possible to drive to 100,000 miles and then change the original spark plugs?

 

[yrwei52]

So when changing spark plugs for the '16 CX-5 sport, do we need to apply the anti seize?

No, don’t use it!

But NGK, who also makes Mazda genuine spark plugs, says:

“Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.”

5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS

Make sure to have a 14 mm thin-wall spark plug socket and the torque spec for spark plug is 12~14 ft/lbf.

CX-5 NGK spark plugs 14mm or 9/16 and torque?

 

[yrwei52]

Is it possible to drive to 100,000 miles and then change the original spark plugs?

Anything is possible ⋯ You can change the oil at 10,000-mile interval too.

 

[txt990]

The NGK equivalent for PE5R-18-110 is NGK Laser Iridium spark plug ILKAR7L11 / 94124.

So are the Mazda PE5R-18-110 the same as the NGK Laser Iridium ILKAR7L11/94124 spark plug?

 

[yrwei52]

So are the Mazda PE5R-18-110 the same as the NGK Laser Iridium ILKAR7L11/94124 spark plug?

This’s a million dollar question. Many believe Mazda OEM PE5R-18-110 and NGK 94124 / ILKAR7L11 are exactly the same plug other the Mazda logo imprint on the porcelain insulator. In fact, the OEM plug even has NGK’s “ILKAR7L11” model number on it. But OVT (OrangeVirus Tuning) had posted here insisting we have to use OEM plugs with their tuning knowledge (see post #2). And my personal opinion based on the huge list price difference between 2 plugs is they’re different. Only Mazda and NGK know the true story.

 

[txt990]

This’s a million dollar question. Many believe Mazda OEM PE5R-18-110 and NGK 94124 / ILKAR7L11 are exactly the same plug other the Mazda logo imprint on the porcelain insulator. In fact, the OEM plug even has NGK’s “ILKAR7L11” model number on it. But OVT (OrangeVirus Tuning) had posted here insisting we have to use OEM plugs with their tuning knowledge (see post #2). And my personal opinion based on the huge list price difference between 2 plugs is they’re different. Only Mazda and NGK know the true story.

Did you use the Mazda PE5R-18-110 or the NGK 94124/ILKAR7L11 ? Any performance or mpg differences?

 

[theblooms]

I used the NGK's. I felt and saw exactly zero difference.

 

[ruthrj]

30k miles on the Denso Iridium TT sparkplugs I installed a couple of years ago on my ‘13 2 liter. No issues, runs like a top.

 

[yrwei52]

Did you use the Mazda PE5R-18-110 or the NGK 94124/ILKAR7L11 ? Any performance or mpg differences?

My 2016 CX-5 has only 45.5K miles and haven’t replaced spark plugs yet. But based on many member’s reports, there seems to be no difference between using OEM and NGK plugs.

 

[yrwei52]

My 2016 CX-5 has only 45.5K miles and haven’t replaced spark plugs yet. But based on many member’s reports, there seems to be no difference between using OEM and NGK plugs.

I personally would use Mazda OEM spark plugs only because I DIY and I almost always use OEM parts to prevent any surprises. The saving on labor cost can cover the extra money I paid to OEM parts.

 

[CX-5um]

30k miles on the Denso Iridium TT sparkplugs I installed a couple of years ago on my ‘13 2 liter. No issues, runs like a top.

I'm happy to report that the Denso Iridium TT (4711) plugs purchased/installed this past weekend is indeed performing well for me in my 2.5l skyactiv Mazda 6. My idle is smooth which is a good indication (wasn't really bad before). That said something felt off but only the first day.

Day 1 I got mediocre mpgs on my normal drive home. I usually get about 34-35mpg I only got like 32.

By Day 2 and 130 miles later I noticed the engine was back to being peppy and this time got 38.5 mpgs by the time I got home from my regular 33 mile commute. 1/3 of my commute was stop/go due to freeway crash, 1/3 was 65mph, 1/3 was 80mph. So fairly normal commute and driving habit. (mpg pic was 3 stop lights from home). I don't get into the high 30's unless I purposely hypermile and doing 65-70mph.

Notes:

- I'm coming off a string of good luck getting parts from local AutoZone. I actually came in to purchase the NGK iridium laser plugs and the employee let me compare both the Denso iridium TT's with the NGKs side by side. I thought the Denso's looked cool with their twin tips so I purchased them. $10.29 each.

- Original OEM NGK plugs shown are from a 2.5l skyactiv engine @83k miles. Pretty decent condition but they likely don't put out as much spark as new plugs would.

- When I installed the new plugs I did not apply anti-seize. I actually inspected/removed the original plugs back at 20k or so. Then again at 83k. No issues removing them back at 20k miles...no issues removing them at 83k miles.

- My install method was to hand tighten until I get resistance from washers...then 1/4 turn.

- I cleaned the ignition coil rubber boots which will continue sealing dirt/grime from the engine bay getting into the chamber.

- The original OEM Densos that came from my CX-5 are NOT these same Denso twin tip 4711's. The said original OEM Denso from my CX-5 are conventional looking iridium plugs. So 2 different designs.

- It appears the NGK Ruthenium plugs are NGK's answer to these Denso iridium twin tips.

- These Denso Iridium TT (4711) plugs do not have the same OEM gap of .044 but rather a .040 so if that matters to you go with the OEM NGK's or OE NGK's.

- I did not purchase these simply because they were cheaper but rather Denso's claim their twin tipped Iridium alloy was marketed to produce a better ignition. I've seen many reviews of Mazda owners using these plugs so more of a curiosity for me.

- I gonna try switching from Costco 87 to 91 octane for 1 tank to see if it makes any difference in peppiness and or mpgs in combination with these plugs.

 

[StPark]

A vehicle spark plug change I won't dread... about as simple as they get.

Last vehicle I had this easy was my wife's old '96 Protege LX (her first new car). We sold it back in 2007.

Transverse V6s have been the worst for me.

3.5 V-6 on my 2015 MDX, spark plugs were real easy. The worst part was disconnecting the coil connectors, LOL.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Good to hear

Never owned Honda brand auto outside of older ATVs and EU2000i generators

 

[yrwei52]

3.5 V-6 on my 2015 MDX, spark plugs were real easy. The worst part was disconnecting the coil connectors, LOL.

Good to know. Like Kedis82ZE8, I always believe the rear 3 spark plugs would be very difficult to access on transverse V6s.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Just ordered some OEM (PE5R-18-110)

I'll probably change them in a few months when I hit 70k miles..that might be summer as at 66k miles now... or will change them by July regardless

EDIT: VQ35DE spark plug swap on back cylinders of my former '02 Maxima required the intake plenum to be removed.

 

[yrwei52]

Just ordered some OEM (PE5R-18-110)

I'll probably change them in a few months when I hit 70k miles..that might be summer as at 66k miles now... or will change them by July regardless

EDIT: VQ35DE spark plug swap on back cylinders of my former '02 Maxima required the intake plenum to be removed.

And I remember some GM cars in 1980s require either lifting the engine or drilling holes on the fire wall to access the rear 3 spark plugs when the V6 just started to be transverse mounted for FWD configuration.

And where did you get the OEM spark plugs, and how expensive are they?

 

[theblooms]

Just ordered some OEM (PE5R-18-110)

I'll probably change them in a few months when I hit 70k miles..that might be summer as at 66k miles now... or will change them by July regardless

EDIT: VQ35DE spark plug swap on back cylinders of my former '02 Maxima required the intake plenum to be removed.

Yeah, same with my son's 06 Maxima. It's retarded.

 

[theblooms]

And I remember some GM cars in 1980s require either lifting the engine or drilling holes on the fire wall to access the rear 3 spark plugs when the V6 just started to be transverse mounted for FWD configuration.

The 3800 in my mother-in-law's 99 Park Avenue wasn't like that at all, thank God. Plenty of room back there, so I guess they learned their lesson.

 

[StPark]

Back in early 80s, a co-worker had a Chevy Monza. I was told the engine had to be removed to have it tuned up, no independent confirmation. Speaking of a GM V-6, I bought '82 Buick Century new, needed carburetor overhaul at 36,000 miles. Shop charged me 4 hours of labor for tune-up. The list of break downs are more than a few pages during first 3 years of ownership.

The last GM car for me.