Shuttering off the line, never happens cold, only when been driven for a while
- Thread starter da20valve
- Start date
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Is it a manual?
If its a manual it could be clutch chatter. I can't remember the exact cause but I think the clutch plate has "hot-spots" on it that when your car warms up, it causes the clutch to slip very slightly when you slowly let it out. It happens to me after driving around for a while but if you are a bit quicker off the clutch in first or give it a bit more gas, usually you can avoid it.
It's most likely either:
1. Sticky EGR valve (more likely given that it happens when the engine is warm). You can try unplugging the EGR valve and see if the problem goes away. Solution is to replace the EGR valve since cleaning it is a temporary fix.
2. Vacuum leak. Inspect the entire accordion tube from the air filter box to the throttle body. Any tears or rips in this will cause a rough idle.
1. Sticky EGR valve (more likely given that it happens when the engine is warm). You can try unplugging the EGR valve and see if the problem goes away. Solution is to replace the EGR valve since cleaning it is a temporary fix.
2. Vacuum leak. Inspect the entire accordion tube from the air filter box to the throttle body. Any tears or rips in this will cause a rough idle.
Not if the EGR valve sticks intermittently. Since the EGR valve only starts to operate when the engine is warm, the rough idle will only occur after the engine is warmed up. On a cold start, the EGR valve will most likely have gone back to a closed position.
I considered that... and it certainly sounds like it, but some of his original post has given me some doubt. It is possible the EGR becomes unstuck and closes when the engine stops or between then and the next warm up... But where he says the issue never happens when cold, that would mean the valve is closing every single time... I think its going to stay open for a cold start at least once in a while...
It's also unclear if he's feeling this at idle, or when engaging the clutch and taking off like the subject suggests.
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Okay to clear things up,
NEVER EVER HAPPENS ON IDLE
NEVER HAPPENS WHEN COLD
ONLY HAPPENS SOMETIMES WHEN HOT
ONLY JUMPS WHEN COMMING OFF LIGHTS OR WHEN STOPPED WHENN WARM, its not a rough idle its like the car is bouncing NOT idling rough.
Wouldn't a vacuum leak happen ever at cold ??.
hope this helps
NEVER EVER HAPPENS ON IDLE
NEVER HAPPENS WHEN COLD
ONLY HAPPENS SOMETIMES WHEN HOT
ONLY JUMPS WHEN COMMING OFF LIGHTS OR WHEN STOPPED WHENN WARM, its not a rough idle its like the car is bouncing NOT idling rough.
Wouldn't a vacuum leak happen ever at cold ??.
hope this helps
Sounds suspension related perhaps.. maybe just wheel hop... Read this and see if that matches up with what you're experiencing:
http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20061012a/
http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20061012a/
Not at idle, my misunderstanding. Then, it's not the EGR valve.
I think the OP is stating the problem happens when the engine is warm and he is bringing the car to a stop. Under these driving conditions, the engine tries to return to its idle speed. The jumping around of the engine speed under these conditions (engine warm, bringing car to a stop) to the point where it fluctuates from stalling to 1500rpm is classic for a sticky EGR. Sticky EGRs are usually intermittent, unless the problem becomes really bad, in which case the car will be undriveable. A vacuum leak would present itself when the engine is either warm or cold. The EGR valve is almost definitely the problem.
The diagnosis to do is to unplug the EGR valve and see if the problem goes away. This should take no more than 20-30 minutes to do. While you're at it, you can inspect the accordion tube looking for a rip.
The diagnosis to do is to unplug the EGR valve and see if the problem goes away. This should take no more than 20-30 minutes to do. While you're at it, you can inspect the accordion tube looking for a rip.
michael boucher
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege5
I'm no expert but mine bounced when I took off at lights and when I took it in, I needed motor mounts. Only one wasn't broken. And the rest were bad enough for it to only bounce getting into first. It probably had a small bounce getting into second but I couldn't feel it. Again, sounds like these guy know their P5s but that's what happened to me.
Is that a big job ??, cost wise that is, would I see it if I looked or would only a mechanic see it, seems weird if its the motor mounts that it only happens sometimes, I will have a look and see.
Thanks for eveyones suggestions
Sometimes they are so bad you can tell just by looking at them... other times they are cracked and you cant really see the deterioration until they are out... look for excessive movement of the engine or clunking when engaging power/etc.
