should i go forged internals?

you have a brand new car under warranty, and you want to ruin that by dumping a couple thousand into forged internals you dont need?
 
yea, do it. then you can up the boost and no one will be able to keep up with you.(2thumbs)
 
internals alone will net you nothing. To take advantage of them you really need to have just about everything.
 
Without serious power mods, there's no need for forged internals, unless you just like being able to keep a straight face when you say that you have them.

And even if you do have them, 50% of the people you say this to will believe you are lying, even though most of them won't say so.
 
Youre not telling us much. It depends on your goals.

Unless you have tons of parts and a new turbo ready to be installed then I wouldn't go forged. Only reason to go forged imo is if you have an upgraded turbo in there.

As has been previosly stated, unless you have plenty of money lying around, I would hold on to your warranty a little :).
 
well i have just about every bolt on there is
FMIC, short ram intake, turbo manifold, 3'' turbo back, up graded spark plugs,cobb access port, up graded fuel pump
lol and my warranty was voided long time ago hahaha
I dont really have goals besides this one
theres this gto that has a rebuilt head and were neck and neck so i wan walk all over him
the only thing i havent done is internals and big turbo
 
how much are you boosting? how much do you want to boost?

its a FWD so traction becomes an issue
 
not to mention transmission as well. these cars are still a tad to young to see what high HP does to the diff and transmission over time. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Still a few things you can get. Intake inlet, engine mounts, sprints / suspension. Those will help you in the 1/4.

If you plan on upgrading the turbo then I would go forged.

Your car must be fast as hell already though :). You could always play it "safer" and get the PK04 protege garage reworked turbo. Internals are expensive.
 
I'm not advocating forged internals for MS3's that don't have bigger turbos, but one reason to consider it is that if you are running high boost levels and some form of ECU tuning (Standback or AP, etc.) it would give you a margin of safety if you do get a little to lean on your tune or if you are spiking a bit on your boost.

It would not be a license to do anything stupid with your tune, but could keep you out of trouble if your tune is close to the safety line.

There is the risk, however, that if you or your shop don't do the upgrade properly, you could be worse off and end up with a failure because the install (basically an engine rebuild) was not done to proper specs. I do not see this creating any more power for you -- unless, you were to blueprint the engine at the same time.

You can pick up considerable power gains with a blueprint -- precise balancing of all rotating mass, equalizing the weight of all moving parts, exact indexing of crankshaft journals so that every cylinder comes up on top dead center at exactly the same number of degree of spacing, by properly eliminating any variations in deck height (how high up the piston comes when getting to top dead center), by making sure that cylinder volume is equal for each cylinder in the head, etc. You'd be surprised at how much minor variation there can be in manufacturing tolerances. There are lots of tricks that can be done to a completely stock engine to eliminate sloppy factory tolerances. This can translate into significant horsepower gains. But this will be expensive. A good shop will know which side of the tolerance range will be the most beneficial for power gains without sacrificing engine life and can equalize all of these specs -- at a cost.
 
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