Shift Linkage, Clutch, and Transmission/LSD Problem???

I was getting off work night and I decided to pull heavy but not take off on first gear, and I noticed my car RPM was climbing high but no acceleration, and then it started to make a heavy whiring sound,(virgin to the sound I was scared). I decided to go into an empty shopping center and tried to figure out what was going on. Test drove my car around the lot, ofcourse the heavy whiring sound continued but, my shifter got stuck in first gear and I couldnt pull out. I figured out if I turn the car on and let off the clucth a little bit and wiggle the shift knob around enough it would be able to change into gear, Which it did. The car was barely drivable, always getting stuck into some gear and having a trouble shifting sometimes, oh it always keep falling out of 1st and 2nd gear...
*My initial thought of the problem was transmission/LSD???
(But my tranmission was rebuilt with new reinforced LSD)
*My neighbor told me that my transmission was fine, but my shift linkage (bars are bent) thats the main cause (He's confident LOL)???
(I'm looking into that...)

*What I most likely need to replace fo sho is the clutch (Currently ACT Street Clutch and Fidanza Fly Wheel). Do I have to buy a whole new clutch kit ~$400?

*I just ordered Corksport shift bushings

*Could the Syncro be off???

Reference:
This beginning part of this video could explain why my RPM was climbing with no acceleration and no pull on the boost, need to replace the clutch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppg_70IM_qQ

Shiting issue
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-transmission-problem&highlight=Shift+linkage

Quick way out, dropping $2,000 at a shop to get the job done, as this problem is interfering with my school and work -.-
 
Does your clutch disengage when you press the pedal? I would be surprised if it was the shifter linkage or bars but these are easy to check.
 
I seriously doubt that the shift linkage bar got bent (they aren't straight to begin with btw... ) but yeah its easy to check and see if everything is in place. If you are not able to change gears then there's a good possibility that you have a problem with the synchros. RPMs going up and the car not moving sounds a lot like the LSD on these cars. Usually when a clutch goes out it doesn't happen overnight.
 
Does your clutch disengage when you press the pedal? I would be surprised if it was the shifter linkage or bars but these are easy to check.

Yes,
I can drive, but for example, Starting off 1st gear -> 2nd Gear -> 3rd Gear **Stop Light** -> Neutral **Green Light** -> Cant get into first gear, lemme check if I can go into the other gears which I can and I have to move in the gear box a lot to get into first gear.
 
I seriously doubt that the shift linkage bar got bent (they aren't straight to begin with btw... ) but yeah its easy to check and see if everything is in place. If you are not able to change gears then there's a good possibility that you have a problem with the synchros. RPMs going up and the car not moving sounds a lot like the LSD on these cars. Usually when a clutch goes out it doesn't happen overnight.

Haha most likely right about shift linkage bar, I checked under the car it seems fine, I have to do more research on LSD and Synchros ! To better understand my car :/
The shop says $1,800 to replace the clutch, master clutch cylinder and i think the fly wheel?
 
Not going in to gear smoothly is normal especially if you have torn stock motor mounts
 
Haha most likely right about shift linkage bar, I checked under the car it seems fine, I have to do more research on LSD and Synchros ! To better understand my car :/
The shop says $1,800 to replace the clutch, master clutch cylinder and i think the fly wheel?

$1800 seems very high to me. Are they quoting you oem mazda parts? When the car is off can you go in and out of gear easily?
 
1800 is way too much. I don't know what the book time is for the job but it should not take more than 3 hours.
 
Yes, I am pretty sure it is stock motor mounts as it was not listed in the mods from the previous owner I bought it.

When the car is off and the shifter is in neutral freely, then I can hit on the clutch and change into all the gears 1,2,3,4,5 just fine except reverse.
When the car is on and I reverse, when the clutch is halfway down of course, the car reverses but when the clutch pedal is fully down the car stops hard! Weird huh? It should feel like neutral when the clutch pedal is fully down but, the wheels immediately lock.

$1,800 is hella high...Ill get an exact quote from the shop in the morning, Ill most likely get the parts my self
 
Mazda labor time on a protege clutch is 4.5 hrs and I don't think it is any different for an MSP.
 
Bad news
The technician discovered the output shaft bearing went bad, damaging the casing, the ring gear and the drive gear. Oil feeder for fifth gear is also broken. I will attach the following pictures regarding your transmission and what the condition of these parts are.

The technician is recommending to have a New OEM Mazda Transmission installed along with a OEM Mazda Clutch kit. Since both parts are OEM Mazda there is a 1 year or 12,000 mile warranty (whichever comes first) for parts and labor. The total for that to get the vehicle in running condition follows

- $4576.74 + Tax/shop supplies to Replace with OEM Mazda Transmission, OEM Mazda Clutch kit (Flywheel, bearing, disc, cover and release) and Rear Main Seal



The technician also noted the Turbo has some play in the shaft.

This is to start, the vehicle may need additional repairs as well after getting the vehicle running. Would you like to proceed with the initial estimate provided?
This is also an addition to the $920.00 authorized previously to have the transmission torn down.
 
Hella expensive ! For now I might but a backup car for the time being and keep my MSP as a project car, as I am still learning, and would like to change the transmission myself with help and grab parts here and there.

What does the tech. mean by "turbo has some play in the shaft"?

Looks like im gonna have to fork up $920 for transmission tear down and tow my MSP back to my hood, across da street
 
<a href="http://imgur.com/SnkCGm3"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/SnkCGm3.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="http://imgur.com/gMx68Vx"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/gMx68Vx.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>
<a href="http://imgur.com/EyR8fQL"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/EyR8fQL.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>
 
Ouch, you can definitely save yourself $4k and swap a used trans yourself. As for the shaft play it is normal for the turbine to move a little bit, he probably didn't know what he is talking about.
 
ouch, and sucks cuz you also had a welded diff in your car. which is a lot better than having a non-welded diff in our cars. but you def can find a used MSP trans for around $300-$600 on the forums. i know there is one in the for sale section you can look into. idk how much shipping would be for you. but couldnt hurt. anything is better than paying over $5grand. with $5000 you can have bought yourself 2 fully built blocks or 1 fully built block with a nice fully built p&p head plus an upgraded turbo for that price. maybe even a haltech standalone too lol.
 
Yes protege3690, did you see any trans for me :)
Could I possibly still use my flywheel and clutch?

hornsfan10690 thanks so much for vital information !
 
Wait, how can you tell that I have a welded LSD?
I will get a used transmission from somewhere hopefully real soon but what cars can I get it from ? Obviously MSP, but MP5 as well ?
If I bring in a used trans then the tech said he will install it for $450 lol

I was reading this thread want to take it into consideration...To swap my LSD if its not shot, can you guys tell ? :)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ew-transmission-for-2003-5-mazdaspeed-protege
 
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You can see the welds on the LSD that's why :p

You can use any protg transmission. The only difference is the speedo gear and the LSD basically. Since your LSD is welded I doubt that its shot. It does mean that it was replaced/removed before.

BTW for 5 grand you can have a fully built transmission. Getting a new OEM one is just ridiculous on a 10 years old car.

1lmNDXP.jpg



Actually looking at it again it seems like there's some damaged teeth on the LSD? (not circled)
 
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The ring gear is fubar'd on that diff, mine had one chip in one tooth and it made a loud whining noise. That looks like some serious carnage.
 
Okay so,
Searching besides our forums, I see Protege transmission's 1.5L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L...does it matter which one I get? 2.0 ?
and If I do I would need to purchase a LSD to swap it out from the open diff.

and if I do should I get it welded?
 
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