Seeking some friendly advice.

[mister_pond]

I've had my P5 for little over a year now and it has been a bad year. After over $2500.00 in small parts repairs I'm considering selling and getting something new. So I'd like some input into whether or not I'm on the right track, from P5 owners with more experience than I have.

Am I right in thinking the small parts repairs will continue based on the age of the car (2003) or does it drop off after repairing critical parts like wires, coil packs, rotors, calipers, endlinks, EGR, MAF, etc. (all of which have been replaced because of irreparable corrosion). I know that spending money on a new car does cost more than repairs but I need to consider whether or not spending money on a brand new car around $20k-$25k with a nice long warranty, is more prudent than spending money on a car that may last me only a few more years and does not perform as well as said new car. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[azuelke]

How many miles are on it? Has the timing belt and everything that goes with that been replaced? Sounds like you knocked most of the "small" fixes out of the way...

 

[justin1194]

I think right now it is up to personal choice. Like azuelke said, it seems like your small fixes are soon to be out of the way.

 

[mister_pond]

It's at 160,000 kilometres or 99400 miles and the timing belt hasn't been changed. I understand that it should be changed at about 105,000km >_>. How much I'm in the clear from more small part fixes I am is what I wanted to know so thanks for that. I know these cars can do a lot after seeing what you guys do to them on this forum.

 

[Fresco]

Honestly considering how bad these cars rust in Canada, and you're already fixing things that are corroded already its just gonna get worse, you fixing parts will just slow the process, unless you have the funds and rust proof the entire underside, I would look for something new. ($.02)

 

[mister_pond]

Honestly considering how bad these cars rust in Canada, and you're already fixing things that are corroded already its just gonna get worse, you fixing parts will just slow the process, unless you have the funds and rust proof the entire underside, I would look for something new. ($.02)

Yeah I definitely don't have that money to spend. Thanks for the opinion. I'm tempted by a '10 Mitsubishi Lancer GT SSL right now.

 

[tweety2300]

I bought my Mazda 3 with 19k miles for 16500, no trade in. Certified pre owned came with bumper to bumper till 2016. You don't need to pay 20-25k for a good warranty

 

[pcb]

It's at 160,000 kilometres or 99400 miles and the timing belt hasn't been changed. I understand that it should be changed at about 105,000km >_>. How much I'm in the clear from more small part fixes I am is what I wanted to know so thanks for that. I know these cars can do a lot after seeing what you guys do to them on this forum.

If I were you I would just keep driving it and forget about the T-belt. Just run it till it snaps. (you have a small chance of severe engine damage from a snapped belt but at least then, you'll know the car is done). It sounds like you are paying someone to do your work and the T-belt can be quite expensive. Some guys on this forum are pushing 200,000 miles (not km) on their original T-belt (but the US has weather that is a bit kinder to the belt).

Like my dad has always said, "good money after bad" and you don't want to do that unless it's a labor of love.
They say love is free but we all know that's crap.

Next time an expense comes up, compare the expense to the value of the car either sold or as $300 for scrap.

Any car is kind of a crap shoot,... you never know what's coming up. A brand new car may be covered but it's still a PITA when something goes wrong.

 

[mister_pond]

The crap shoot part is definitely true. And with a car like the P5, anything that comes up can give me valuable experience learning how to do this kind of stuff.. as opposed to playing with a $15-20,000 vehicle. We'll see how far I can get this thing.

 

[HrV323]

you should just keep the 323
put some time in with a wire brush and underseal your car, replace the perishables like egr coils droplinks, its standard you can easily get your car running sweet!

 

[mister_pond]

I hope so. I see all the beautiful jobs you guys do on these threads and think "I want my car to look like that when I grow up". Gee whiz.

 

[whatusername]

so ur choces r a car thats paid for n have basic ins vs a car with payments and mandatory full coverage? hmm tough choice lol not.. keep the p5 wat u save on repairs with the new car u spend on payments n ins.. p5 no brainer

 

[pcb]

I hope so. I see all the beautiful jobs you guys do on these threads and think "I want my car to look like that when I grow up". Gee whiz.

It's a labor of love,... just stay on top of the cancer treatments.

Consider going to Krown for a yearly oil spray. I think it's well worth the $135. It's supposed to slow the progression of rust by 85%.

 

[Maroon]

It only gets worse. Much worse. But if you don't drive a lot and you've got space to repair it, you can manage the repairs. Rust should be a big concern of yours considering you live in Toronto.

If you decide to get rid of it, don't get a $20-25,000 car. $5-10,000 can get you a good car that is 10x better built than this one.

 

[mister_pond]

Definitely leaning towards driving it until it dies in a fiery spectacle after I've been ejected to a safe distance on a pile of clean abandoned mattresses. I'll definitely look Krown up and see what they have ^ thanks pcb. The brand new car idea was mostly my girlfriend and parent's suggestion which I've always been hesitant on. I'm not going to pay an extra 20% just for appreciation value. Thanks for all you input. I appreciate it all.

 

[P-Funk!]

uh, a rust treatment at this point is slamming the gate after the horse has bolted, eh?

Just drive it.

 

[pcb]

uh, a rust treatment at this point is slamming the gate after the horse has bolted, eh?

Just drive it.

I disagree with that.

Krown (a Canadian rust proofing company) will slow the progression of rust by 85%,... and when our cars are covered with rust it can make the difference between things like my gas tank rusting through by next year or hold that off for 5 years.

It also lubes up switches and motors, can help prevent locks from freezing and reduces the strain on power window motors by lubing up the window tracks. It soaks into the threads of nuts and bolts to help with removal when you need to work on it too.

A good oil spraying (where they drill holes to get in there) can extend the life of a car in Canada by years.

I fully expect to get at least five more years out of my car,... it's not just cosmetic.

 

[pcb]

When I got mine sprayed last time, I took out the back seats, removed as much of the mouldings as I could and pulled back the carpets in the trunk and cabin area to give them as much access as possible. That exposed rust that wasn't accessible to them before.

The spray also helps prevent the corrosion on wires, switches and connectors (that white or green powder that creates a bad connection).

Even if you only get it sprayed once, I think it's well worth it,... just take your car apart as much as you're comfortable with before you go.

 

[JesseM]

uh, a rust treatment at this point is slamming the gate after the horse has bolted, eh?

Just drive it.

I krowned my rust-bucket P5 and it severely slowed down the rust. My rear wheel wells have stopped developing a inch of new rust every-time it rains, now its only 1/10th of an inch if anything. I should have done it in the spring, this summer was brutal for rust.

 

[HrV323]

in my opinion for what is $500 you should be able to find a little independant body shop that will cut out and weld on new rear arches, problem solved.