Scraping/Grinding Noise From Transfer Case (2017 Mazda CX-5)

2017 Mazda Cx-5 GT 80k miles
Started making scraping/grinding noise from takeoff, loudest between 20-40, and faint at 50+. No leaks, no difference in driving. Started happening a few days after Christmas parking over curbs. I believe the sound is coming from under the front seats, but initially thought it leaned towards the front passenger wheel bearing.

Initially, I thought a rock was stuck somewhere or a bad wheel bearing. Brought to local shop, ended up bringing to nearest dealership 1.5 hours away and their diagnosis and estimate is attached. I am only worried about the main repairs as I believe this dealership obviously bloated the repairs and costs. Any insight is helpful, as I am now calling quoting transfer case replacements locally. One mechanic said the rear differential probably does not need to be changed with the transfer case. Still awaiting several quotes, many won't quote without diagnosing themselves. Thank you for any helpful information you may have!

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Sounds like a typical wheel bearing issue to me.
Based on what you described, likely the left front wheel.

What I would do...
Find a flat spot (garage?), chock the wheels (to be safe), put gear into "N",
jack up one wheel at a time, spin it to see if it make noises while spinning.
 
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2017 Mazda Cx-5 GT 80k miles
Started making scraping/grinding noise from takeoff, loudest between 20-40, and faint at 50+. No leaks, no difference in driving. Started happening a few days after Christmas parking over curbs. I believe the sound is coming from under the front seats, but initially thought it leaned towards the front passenger wheel bearing.

Initially, I thought a rock was stuck somewhere or a bad wheel bearing. Brought to local shop, ended up bringing to nearest dealership 1.5 hours away and their diagnosis and estimate is attached. I am only worried about the main repairs as I believe this dealership obviously bloated the repairs and costs. Any insight is helpful, as I am now calling quoting transfer case replacements locally. One mechanic said the rear differential probably does not need to be changed with the transfer case. Still awaiting several quotes, many won't quote without diagnosing themselves. Thank you for any helpful information you may have!

View attachment 315259
So depending on the job, they're charging you a fluctuating labor cost between $180 and $250 per hour?? And they can't add either.
Looks like they pulled the labor out of thin air.

Anyone that can't add and doesn't have a set labor rate ...I would find another to fix it, especially out of warranty. I don't know how you all can afford dealer prices.

Do you not have an AAMCO you can take it to for free/small fee diagnosis? And/or a local who can diagnose and fix for alot less.
I don't know about the differential and transfer costs but an Indy would charge you about half($1000 or less) of the dealership($2170) for brakes and bearings work.

EDIT: also unless you did some rough offroading or had a severely defective Mazda, your case and differential should be ok.
Did you run it through water?
Do you off-road alot?
Did you hit anything?
How high are the curbs?
Do you have large or mismatched tires? What size?
Did you get any tranny overheat lights/warnings on your dash display ?
 
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Sounds like a typical wheel bearing issue to me.
Based on what you described, likely the left front wheel.

What I would do...
Find a flat spot (garage?), chock the wheels (to be safe), put gear into "N",
jack up one wheel at a time, spin it to see if it make noises while spinning.
And it would be alot cheaper to have the bearings replaced first and see if that resolved everything before doing the big fix.
 
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I'd go with one of those guys since that's the way it should be done.
Yes, I thanked them for such a response.

And it would be alot cheaper to have the bearings replaced first and see if that resolved everything before doing the big
-thanks for your
So depending on the job, they're charging you a fluctuating labor cost between $180 and $250 per hour?? And they can't add either.
Looks like they pulled the labor out of thin air.

Anyone that can't add and doesn't have a set labor rate ...I would find another to fix it, especially out of warranty. I don't know how you all can afford dealer prices.

Do you not have an AAMCO you can take it to for free/small fee diagnosis? And/or a local who can diagnose and fix for alot less.
I don't know about the differential and transfer costs but an Indy would charge you about half($1000 or less) of the dealership($2170) for brakes and bearings work.

EDIT: also unless you did some rough offroading or had a severely defective Mazda, your case and differential should be ok.
Did you run it through water?
Do you off-road alot?
Did you hit anything?
How high are the curbs?
Do you have large or mismatched tires? What size?
Did you get any tranny overheat lights/warnings on your dash display ?
Thank you! Yes I have heard from some really trustworthy and knowledgeable sounding mechanics today. 2 said that it's more than likely not both T.C and Rear Differential, they both said that the dealership is full of s*** and don't even want to quote me until I bring it to them, sounds much more reassuring than the service salesman I realize I now took it to. Going to pick up tomo AM and bring it to the mechanic I've spoken to locally, I can do the small repairs on wheels and brakes myself. No, absolutely nothing out of the norm, literally gently over a curb, 5 or 6 times, week later the sounds. Besides that literally everything is completely normal. The mechanic I am speaking of, includes diagnostic for free if I follow through with repair, is reputable, fair priced based on reviews, and once again feels honest and knowledgeable. Once again in life, a learning lesson for me.
 
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Yes, I thanked them for such a response.


-thanks for your

Thank you! Yes I have heard from some really trustworthy and knowledgeable sounding mechanics today. 2 said that it's more than likely not both T.C and Rear Differential, they both said that the dealership is full of s*** and don't even want to quote me until I bring it to them, sounds much more reassuring than the service salesman I realize I now took it to. Going to pick up tomo AM and bring it to the mechanic I've spoken to locally, I can do the small repairs on wheels and brakes myself. No, absolutely nothing out of the norm, literally gently over a curb, 5 or 6 times, week later the sounds. Besides that literally everything is completely normal. The mechanic I am speaking of, includes diagnostic for free if I follow through with repair, is reputable, fair priced based on reviews, and once again feels honest and knowledgeable. Once again in life, a learning lesson for me.
You'd have to hit curb alot harder to bust a cv joint, etc. Cerics post on wheel bearings might be it... Probably getting worn and the curb finished the job. Doubtful the pumpkin needs replaced but you never know.
 
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SNIP

EDIT: also unless you did some rough offroading or had a severely defective Mazda, your case and differential should be ok.
Did you run it through water?
Do you off-road alot?
Did you hit anything?
How high are the curbs?
Do you have large or mismatched tires? What size?
Did you get any tranny overheat lights/warnings on your dash display ?

It can happen, I have a blown rear diff (side output bearings (Both) and left seal toast) and did none of that. I have a 2017 60,176K on the clock. Still waiting to see if Mazda is going to cover the repair.

In my 35 years of driving, I've never had a diff fail. My Durango with 202K is a bit of a leaker, but still functioning.. :p
 
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It can happen, I have a blown rear diff (side output bearings (Both) and left seal toast) and did none of that. I have a 2017 60,176K on the clock. Still waiting to see if Mazda is going to cover the repair.

In my 35 years of driving, I've never had a diff fail. My Durango with 202K is a bit of a leaker, but still functioning.. :p
Usually it's rough offroading but I did mention severely defective as an possible cause.

Yep, American always take bad rap, but just like your dodge , i've never had nor seen a differential fail in a Ford truck or SUV after many many years and miles.

Good luck with possible slightly out if warranty claim.
 
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