RPMs drop when engine is warm - Mazda Ba 323 1997

[RoniisH]

Hi!

I've got a Mazda Ba 323 from 1997 with quite an annoying problem.

Whenever you start the engine when it's cold or medium warm, it runs fine in the beginning. The problems arise when the engine is warm.

1. When the engine is warm, it's starts weird. It starts up fine but the RPMs instantly sink down towards 100 RPM's. After about 2 seconds, they go back up to normal 700-800 RPM's.

2. When pushing the clutch with a gear enganged, the RPMs drop down towards 100 again, stabilizing 2 seconds later.

3. When turning the wheel left or right, the RPM's go up and down.

Do you guys have any clue whats going on here? Any help is appreciated. It's driveable, but it's extremely annoying.

Here are two video clips of how it behaves:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYkuREz5LxE - From the inside: Engine start, acceleration (normal) and turning of the wheel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtvoGjyQeFU - From the outside: When turning the wheel slightly left or right. Sure, in every car the RPM's drop, but not by this much.

 

[CorkSport]

Which engine do you have?

-Derrick

 

[RoniisH]

Honestly, I don't know. How can I find out? It's got 65kw/88BHP.

 

[MS3 GT]

maybe ur distributor??

 

[CorkSport]

Honestly, I don't know. How can I find out? It's got 65kw/88BHP.

Post a picture of it. I am guessing a B5 or a Z5.

Derrick

 

[RoniisH]

I checked the papers and it says "Z5" with a "1.5".

 

[CorkSport]

Great,

That makes it easier since I have one of those engines in my daily beater.

Check a few things out.

#1 Make sure the rubber pipe between the throttle body and the AFM are in good shape. I had to replace the part in my 97 recently because of a weird running problem. It turned out to be a small crack in the hose.

#2 Make sure the plug gap is correct. I have had a problem with this in the past as well with some low speed driving problems when you put a load on the motor with the power steering or electrical loads.

#3 Make sure the battery terminals are clean and connecting well with the battery.

-Derrick

 

[RoniisH]

Thanks a lot for your reply!

#1: Not sure what these things are (I'm swedish). Would be great if you could mark out the throttle body, the AFM (what does it stand for?) and the pipe inbetween that you're talking about, on this picture I took this afternoon: http://i39.tinypic.com/2v1x14x.jpg (large size).

#2: The sparkplugs I presume? I'll pick them up and check the state of them, along with the gap.

#3: I'll check that as well!

EDIT: Also, I'd really like to know what two things are in the motor. The one on the very upper right (see picture) and the one on the upper left that has two hoses connected to it. I think the first one is the motor for the wipers, but I'm not sure. Thanks!

 

[CorkSport]

Thanks a lot for your reply!

#1: Not sure what these things are (I'm swedish). Would be great if you could mark out the throttle body, the AFM (what does it stand for?) and the pipe inbetween that you're talking about, on this picture I took this afternoon: http://i39.tinypic.com/2v1x14x.jpg (large size).

#2: The sparkplugs I presume? I'll pick them up and check the state of them, along with the gap.

#3: I'll check that as well!

EDIT: Also, I'd really like to know what two things are in the motor. The one on the very upper right (see picture) and the one on the upper left that has two hoses connected to it. I think the first one is the motor for the wipers, but I'm not sure. Thanks!

#1 It is hose from the air filter to the engine.

The wiper motor is on the right side at the top of the picture. The vent canister is the part at the top on the left with the hoses.

 

[grey1]

Great,

That makes it easier since I have one of those engines in my daily beater.

Check a few things out.

#1 Make sure the rubber pipe between the throttle body and the AFM are in good shape. I had to replace the part in my 97 recently because of a weird running problem. It turned out to be a small crack in the hose.

#2 Make sure the plug gap is correct. I have had a problem with this in the past as well with some low speed driving problems when you put a load on the motor with the power steering or electrical loads.

#3 Make sure the battery terminals are clean and connecting well with the battery.

-Derrick

make sure the water level is good, and air filter is not blocked, and throtttle body is clean inside,

sounds like idle control issue...duh, I mean there is a part called "Idle Control"
(or bypass air something)....water level and cleanliness are important.

This is OBD2 vehicle in sweden? Does the check light come on?

 

[RoniisH]

@ CorkSport: Thanks a lot for your suggestions! I haven't had any access to the car lately, however when I do I'll do what I can.

grey1: What's OBD2? No lights are ever on, nothing has ever flashed or anything like that.

 

[grey1]

@ CorkSport: Thanks a lot for your suggestions! I haven't had any access to the car lately, however when I do I'll do what I can.

grey1: What's OBD2? No lights are ever on, nothing has ever flashed or anything like that.

obd2 is an acronym for something...the "d" is for diagnosis, oh yea.."On Board Diagnosis". Yes, the flashing lights are part of that. You dont have a check light on , but are having idle trouble. You might research term like "EGR" fix.
Dont forget ordinary maintenance.

OBD2 makes checking things like afm (air flow meter), or coolant temps, or whatever. It even helps with these internet/mechanical guesses. Europe went to OBD2 in the year 2000 or so ( I am guessing). But all cars in US were required to have obd2 in 1996.



Although you may not have an OBD2 vehicle, you do have a Z5. Common problems will be the same regardless of the computer system used. I did not look at the pictures yet, but i will guess that the engine is the same as a found here. I would like to know what markings / numbers are on your distributor.

Also, and this is important if you are researching this vehicle here, look in the "second generation protege forum". Thet is what the same vehicle is known as here. ...."323" is the old name, and to us it is an entirely different vehicle. So, you have a 1995-1996-1997-(and maybe 1998) Protege

 

[RoniisH]

Hi again,

The problem has not yet been solved. It went back to the sales company, but they couldn't fix it, so they booked me in at another repair shop. So the car will be handed in to them week 15. We'll see what happens then.

However, I noticed something recently which I haven't come across before. When I push the accelerator (in neutral), there's this small "pssh" sound in the beginning of the acceleration. It lasts about 1 sec then goes away. Happens every time I push the accelerator. I located the sound to somewhere on the passenger side. See this image: http://i41.tinypic.com/14lszuf.jpg

Do you guys know what's causing this "pssh" sound? It's not very loud, if that makes any difference. It's barely noticeable from the inside.

 

[RoniisH]

Bump