review my setup!

[builthatch]

this is for an 08 mazdaspeed3 gt. I will keep the stock HU and (for now) the tiny amplified bose sub assembly under the passenger seat. the rear speakers will also remain stock.

front speakers- http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=400&i=1086822CF&tp=105

sub- http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=1081250W&tp=111 in a sealed 1ft hatch box.

amp- http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=108R475A&tp=115

LOC using the front speaker signal- http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=speaker+level&i=142SLC4

i simply want to have pronounced, tight bass with improved clarity and better overall response from highs to lows. i am not an audiophile but want to improve what i have, the most notable additions would be noticeable bass and higher clear volume potential.

 

[flipstylex]

i dig it, any aftermarket is better than stock speakers

 

[alpinedb]

For what you are paying you could get a much better system. You also need to make sure you put sound deadening in the front doors or they will not sound any better/louder than they already do. I would put component speakers in the front instead of coaxials. You can build an amazing sound system (within your budget) with elemental designs at edesignaudio.com. I would use the mtx re-q to get your signal and tap into the factory amp. I might be forgetting something...

 

[builthatch]

For what you are paying you could get a much better system. You also need to make sure you put sound deadening in the front doors or they will not sound any better/louder than they already do. I would put component speakers in the front instead of coaxials. You can build an amazing sound system (within your budget) with elemental designs at edesignaudio.com. I would use the mtx re-q to get your signal and tap into the factory amp. I might be forgetting something...

good call on the re-q. any idea of how the stock tweeters mount? i'm curious if i can pick a tweeter to fit in the stock hole to replace the factory ones as per fourthmeal's suggestion.

 

[boostdog]

I personally would not purchase infinity's ref. line...they are not worth the $..how much are you wanting to spend?

 

[builthatch]

I personally would not purchase infinity's ref. line...they are not worth the $..how much are you wanting to spend?

well, the cost is really secondary, however i don't need super super high end stuff. with that i don't want to overspend for something with which i'd not really notice the difference compared to a more pedestrian brand. i feel better spending money to go faster vs. having a crazy stereo.

i just want the best frequency response while keeping costs down to earth.

one thing i do like to do is keep things uniform in terms of manufacturer as much as possible. i've always been like that and i figured with infinity i can't necessarily go wrong, but we'll see!

after a PM from fourthmeal, i've decided that i really do need to upgrade the tweeters too. that said, i guess i'll do a component set up front, but i gotta figure out what tweeter will work up front in the stock panel.

so, at this time, it seems i need a front component set with properly sized tweeter, something like the re-Q to grab the signal, and a sub. i also need an amp solution because i was told that the amp i picked out will be underpowering the sub. that is another area of confusion- the amp puts out 180w rms @ 4 ohms when bridging the rear two channels and that sub calls for 60-300w rms, so it seems to me that this is in the higher range of the RMS rating and while not pushing it's limits, should power it just fine. otherwise, i dunno how to select an amp because i don't want to be overpowering the front speakers in order to get a 4 channel amp that will go into 3 channel mode with enough power for this sub. a two channel amp seems like a waste, not to mention the cost of an add'l mono amp for the sub if i were to get a two channel amp too.

 

[boostdog]

believe it or not overpowering a speaker is not nessacarily a bad thing...give me a $ amount on your budget...i'll put something together for you.

 

[erick pina]

the only noise I want to hear in my car is the engine.

 

[fourthmeal]

snip

 

[6262MS3]

Fourthmeal always gives great advice! As for the sub power, you'll be giving it slightly over half it's rms power rating in a small sealed box. I think you'd be better off with something beefier for the sub. In my own experiences even at lower volumes I found that a properly-powered sub will have way better sq. Without enough power a sub will sound sloppy because it takes more juice to control the speaker cone as opposed to just moving it. If you want a reasonably priced 4-channel amp this might work better:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=109GTO754&tp=115

Edit: Don't worry about overpowering the front speakers, set the gain for them low and it will be hard to blow them unless you do something stupid. Plus you will have cleaner, less distorted mids and highs as the amp won't be using it's rated power for them.

 

[builthatch]

the only noise I want to hear in my car is the engine.

i've had 10 years of vtec everywhere i go, i want to be able to tune in when i want to tune out the engine lol

fourthmeal, thanks for the detailed advice. i do not mean to have you repeat yourself, but i do appreciate highlighting info you've detailed in the past as well as the new info.

anyway, boostdog- i'd say 1500 installed, keeping the factory bose HU. i priced out an amp, wiring, front speakers, something to pull signal from speaker level and flatten response, sub and enclosure. then i tacked on another 500-600 or so for installation, though that might be too much money, i have no idea what they charge nowadays. i guess i could do 2k, but that would be really stretching it considering all the performance stuff i've gotten sitting here waiting for the car, which isn't even delivered yet! also, please keep in mind i'm not an audiophile, but do appreciate full, powerful response.

about installation, since i was 13-14 i've been playing w/ audio then graduated to eventually building my own honda engines and gave up on anything but baseline audio several years ago. though i know i could do it, i'd rather pay a pro at this point in my life to relieve stress and hassle. if the pricing nowadays is outrageous, i might rethink it.

regarding sound deadening, my firm represents dynamic control, aka dynamat, so i will probably ask scott for some freebies.

 

[fourthmeal]

snip

 

[Abaddon]

Alpine Type X 6.5" (new ones and old ones, same quality as they are both Vifa woofers and tweeters sold under Alpine's name.) Usually $220 or so.

the new type-x PRO speakers have the Scan Speak ring radiator from the F#1 status line... deal of the year? ummmmm ya.

The mid-bass is a knock off revelator.. is it by Scan? Vifa? who cares....

 

[alpinedb]

believe it or not overpowering a speaker is not nessacarily a bad thing...give me a $ amount on your budget...i'll put something together for you.

Yea actually overpowering is the preferred thing to do. What happens is that you can turn your amps down so they won't run so hard, you'll have a much more efficient system. I've got my gains at only 1/4 on my amps and I get no light dimming and amazing clarity. Also with the sub, the box is just as important if not even more important than how much power you give to it. Make sure the sub box is to the manufacturers recommended specs.

 

[Abaddon]

Yea actually overpowering is the preferred thing to do. What happens is that you can turn your amps down so they won't run so hard, you'll have a much more efficient system. I've got my gains at only 1/4 on my amps and I get no light dimming and amazing clarity.

That has nothing to do with "headroom" and has everything to do with the efficiency of the amplifier in question, the efficiency of the speakers being used, and most importantly, the connection strength and current carrying capacity of all the wires involved in the system, IE. Power, Ground, and all the Charging system wires (big 3). Gain is just a word. Try to ignore the fact that amplifiers even HAVE a gain setting.

You'll also note that solid state amplifiers don't run "hard" until the VERY limits of their operation... I have no experience on tubes, so I can't comment on their operation principals.

Also with the sub, the box is just as important if not even more important than how much power you give to it. Make sure the sub box is to the manufacturers recommended specs.

I'll agree with that 500%.

 

[builthatch]

the new type-x PRO speakers have the Scan Speak ring radiator from the F#1 status line... deal of the year? ummmmm ya.

The mid-bass is a knock off revelator.. is it by Scan? Vifa? who cares....

crutchfield's online fitment guide says the 5 1/4 type r components would fit my car, but the 5 1/4 type x won't? i'm curious if the depth on the type x is the issue....

EDIT: never mind, i checked with them and they said it's a lack of database info at this point, but it will fit.

 

[El Ropo]

You'll want to be looking at 6.5" and 6.75" comp sets. Don't pay any attention to crutchfield fitment guides as they only cover what can be dropped in with no modification. You can easily fit a 7" midbass with 2.75" + depth in the Mazda 3 doors just by using a MDF (or a similar material) spacer on the existing 6 x 8" speaker opening.

5.25 " comp sets in general will be lacking severely in the midbass department.

I would not recommend Infinity speakers at all. For the pricepoint, you can get much better sounding speakers from many different vendors.

Try to find a set of Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5" comps. I think onlinecarstereo.com still has them for under $130.00. They can be had for less than $100 on ebay, but I've heard way too many bad stories about purchases made from places like indoaudio. Don't trust them.

The PG RSD subs are really nice for the money as well. I also second the vote for elemental designs. Very good equipment for the money. They are also an authorized dealer for DLS, and the MS6a model of DLS comps for under $300, is an amazing deal on an amazing set of comps. I think you have to call them to buy DLS products now, whereas they used to sell online too.

 

[builthatch]

thanks for the info.

let me ask, a "plus one" 5x7/6x8 would yield the same surface area as a 6-7" round woofer, no?

here is the deal. i need to keep the budget in mind.

at this time, here are some plans, each one has a problem or two. BTW, mid-level means something like JBL GT series.

plan 1
mid-level component set with passive xovers
mid-level 4 channel amp, run in 3 channel mode
mtx re-q
mid-level 12" 4 ohm sub, 300w/1200w in sealed box

main advantage is cost! main drawback is power for the sub. the bridged last two channels on 4 channel amps i've seen will not be enough power for the sub; when bridged, the amps i've looked at aren't 2 ohm stable, so voice coil gymnastics isn't an option. sure i could get one with dual 2 ohm VC's, like the JBL GT 12" and run the last two channels at 2 ohms, one to each VC, but that would be the same as running 4 ohms bridged to one. what i could do is since i really just need moderate lows but good overall increase in frequency response, i could run this scenario with on 8" in a tiny sealed box. that would take up such a little amount of room and I think it would probably make me happy, but i can't say for sure, but i know a 12" definately would. it's like my si sedan; it's power delivery is adequate, but i know the ms3 power delivery will surely make me happy because it's excessive and can be toned down with the gas pedal.

plan 2
mid-level component set
3sixty.2
mid-level 4 channel amp running highs and mids
mid-level mono sub amp
mid-level 12" sub in sealed box

the total downside to this is cost. using JBL options for all areas from woofersetc, that is approaching 1500 before any installation costs, including wire and accessories. the upside is it seems it would work pretty well and everything would see the power it needs with room to spare.

this is very confusing. i did mention before that cost is secondary, but something that has to be realized is i've ordered a shifter, bushing, HIR light bulbs for fogs and highs, the Cobb intake setup, corksport mount insert and turboxs test pipe and exhaust...oh and the oil filter conversion.

and i don't even have the car here yet.

so i'd rather obviously spend cash on speed vs. sound. for instance, i don't think i'd really care if i used passive xovers boxes with the components vs. the 3sixty and the need for extra amp channels it brings, even though there is SO much more tuneability and stuff, i just don't think i'd notice/care enough to spend the money....stuff like that plays greatly in my mind.

 

[fourthmeal]

snip

 

[builthatch]

thanks again for the info!

so, i have to ask- the PRS-D4100F...the rear bridged channel would be stable probably to only 4ohms. with a dvc 2ohm sub, i would wire it so the amp would see 4 ohm, right? i am assuming since you said 2 ohm sub, you mean each vc is 2 ohm for series wiring purposes, not two 4 ohm vc's meant for 2 ohm parallel presentation to the amp...

EDIT: ok, i confirmed this by looking at the info on sonicelectronix regarding this model. so i would wire the DVC in series, bridge the rear channel and run it 300X1 to that sub, essentially.