The skidplate came in the mail very vell packaged (for a skidplate) and had a single small dent on the back edge of the plate, not a big deal. All required hardware was included along with a few extras, and the downloaded instruction manual is great, and there is even a video to assist with riv-nut installation. It is apparent that significant thought went into this kit. That being said, it is not the quickest install (for one person on a garage floor) and for what it is, removal will be a mild pain as well (though not as bad as the OEM NB undertray for you miata owners). It is a very solid unit, but I may go back and add a couple spacers to the rear since it is contacting the subframe (though I've heard no rattling yet). I'm very pleased with the overall result considering the design of our cars. Customer service was excellent as well, as I had to call corksport when I over-tightened a riv-nut. I'm hoping to see a mild MPG increase on the highway since this really improves airflow under the car in addition to the protection.
Review: Corksport Skid Tray
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kcdirtbro54
Member
- :
- mazda2
Now THAT'S customer service! (2thumbs)
Hi There. We didn't hear about the small dent. I'm sorry that UPS didn't treat your box well.Is there something that we can do to make it better for you?
-Tyler
Don't worry about it. If it was a problem for me I would have mentioned it. I have no doubt you would've helped me out.
On another note...I just thought about a possible improvement. A cutout from the back center edge so the car could be jacked up from the front subframe with the skidplate in place.
Tom_Mazda2
Member
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- 2011 Mazda2, Touring, 5spd MT
My only problem that I had with the Skid Tray was the riv nut tool. The bolt that comes with the riv nut tool is made from cheap aluminum and I snaped it in half installing my second riv nut. Luckily I was able to get the snapped half out of the riv nut. After the bolt snapped I ran up to my local hardware store and got the same bolt made from grade 8 steel and that worked fine.
This is a fantastic Idea as I now find myself having to take more time to align my jack on the subframe. This is especially difficult on a lowered Mazda 2 like mine.
This is a fantastic Idea as I now find myself having to take more time to align my jack on the subframe. This is especially difficult on a lowered Mazda 2 like mine.
LOL! I did the same damn thing, only on the 1st riv-nut and I had to have my local mechanic help me out with the retained portion of the bolt.
If I can remember, I'm going to take some measurements the next time I remove the skidplate, and bring it in to my local alum. fab shop to do the cut-out for me. They've helped out in the past on a skidplate I had on a forester.
If I can remember, I'm going to take some measurements the next time I remove the skidplate, and bring it in to my local alum. fab shop to do the cut-out for me. They've helped out in the past on a skidplate I had on a forester.
OK here's a little update. I just did my first oil change since the skidplate was installed. I put the car up on ramps to make it easier. Access to both the oil filter and oil drain plug was excellent. It turns out the opening pressure from the oil pan is enough to send some oil past the skidplate opening. In addition, after loosening the oil filter the oil dripping off the trailing edge of the filter drips onto the skidplate surface. You'll definately want to have a drain pan set up at the rear edge of the skidplate, unless you cut out some extra material from the rear edge of both openings.
One more thing...the car can easily be jacked up from the center of the front subframe with a floor jack with no problems. Just drive up on some boards first though so the jack will have clearance under the front end. The skidplate does not interfere.
One more thing...the car can easily be jacked up from the center of the front subframe with a floor jack with no problems. Just drive up on some boards first though so the jack will have clearance under the front end. The skidplate does not interfere.
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StrangeP3rm
Member
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- Mazda 2 touring
Has the CS skid plate made any improvements to the Mpgs of anyone who installed it ? Is there any reduction of road noise at speed compared to stock ? Lastly any effects to high speed stability ? Any input on real world driving impresions Vs our open air engine bay .
I am getting better MPG's now, though I also put some more air in the tires and seem to be getting a lighter right foot in the daily grind. I'll be able to update on hwy mileage in a couple weeks after I take a roadtrip for the FSU-Clemson game. I can't comment on road noise since I thought my car was TOO quiet and threw on a cheapo muffler.
Well I was planning on starting the install for my CS front swaybar kit last night and came across a speed bump. The left and right rear riv-nuts seem to be spinning in the subframe when I turn (loosen) the bolts. So far I've tried prying up on the edge of the plastic washer (since its recessed there's no way to get under the bolt head) as I turn the bolt but no luck. Tonight I'm going to see if I can get pliers or vice-grips on that washer and pull while turning the allen-head bolt. Anyone have a suggestion?
I spoke to Derrick on the phone who was going to ask an engineer what the best solution might be. I'll probably hear back some time today.
I guess when I do get the bolt out I'll have to tighten up the riv-nut a little more and hope it doesn't break...or just leave out those bolts since there are plenty of others holding the plate up.
I spoke to Derrick on the phone who was going to ask an engineer what the best solution might be. I'll probably hear back some time today.
I guess when I do get the bolt out I'll have to tighten up the riv-nut a little more and hope it doesn't break...or just leave out those bolts since there are plenty of others holding the plate up.
Another update:
One of the rear lag-bolts had bottomed out into the riv-nut due to flexing of the skidplate in the back corners when tightening the bolts...after getting it out, a spacer for those rear-most bolts solved the problem.
I noticed I was always getting a vibration at a specific rpm with the plate on, and that rpm would be slightly different with removal and re-install of the plate. I got some rubber washers from the plumbing department in home depot, drilled them out a bit, and put them on the bolts between the subframe and the skidplate. This actually made the car slightly quieter and solved the vibration.
Now I can try hardening the dogbone mount without having to worry about extra vibration from the skidplate.
One of the rear lag-bolts had bottomed out into the riv-nut due to flexing of the skidplate in the back corners when tightening the bolts...after getting it out, a spacer for those rear-most bolts solved the problem.
I noticed I was always getting a vibration at a specific rpm with the plate on, and that rpm would be slightly different with removal and re-install of the plate. I got some rubber washers from the plumbing department in home depot, drilled them out a bit, and put them on the bolts between the subframe and the skidplate. This actually made the car slightly quieter and solved the vibration.
Now I can try hardening the dogbone mount without having to worry about extra vibration from the skidplate.
Update: Nothing exciting to tell. No noises or rattles. Engine bay stays pretty clean. I simply have not had to think about it at all. Fortunately no hard hits to test it out either. Only thing I can see this interfering with is the Injen CAI, and maybe custom pipes for brake cooling or intercooler plumbing if one was so inclined. So in retrospect, its a great kit, but be careful with those riv-nuts and have plenty of rubber washers on hand (8-10) for spacing and vibration reduction.
UPDATE: I gave the skid tray a serious rally style test today. Summer tires and cooling temps/increasing elevation were not working in my favor and I put two wheels down into a steep ditch and essentially did a "rail slide" along the pavement edge. I'm pretty sure my oil pan and a few other things would've been toast if not for the skid plate! It didn't quite survive but I feel it served its purpose. I'll get a photo of the skidplate when I have a chance.
Hey man, sorry to hear about your off-road adventure. Glad you're ok, and def glad you had that skidplate though!!! Does the car seem ok other than the wheel that took a hit?
If anyone think they will see an improvement in mpg from just a front skidplate/undertray is wish full thinking. Maybe if one was to do a full undertray from front to back and with other modifications maybe IMHO. Just a general comment and not commenting to CS skidplate. It's a nice looking piece.
Drivetrain is solid. Front chin spoiler (right side) ripped off, so I just removed the rest of it. Lower front bumper is scraped up pretty good, I might see how it looks just painting the lower edge black. Sizeable crease/dent from passenger side rear door to front door. Both doors open and close fine, but there is a new rattle that I haven't been able to track down yet. Two decent dents on the lower edge of the right rocker panel. Rear right wheel lip shattered on a rock. Rear right strut is clunking, but seems to work fine otherwise (I even removed & inspected it today, must be some internal change causing the clunk). Zero or maybe positive camber of the rear right wheel, but I couldn't find anything broken/bent on that part of the suspension. Hopefully the toe isn't too out of whack.
For now I'm using the miata wheelset (black lightspeeds/comp2's) and the whole setup looks much more aggressive (but also a bit heavier). I ordered another kosei from tire rack today, and decided to go with a budget set of tires. $170 shipped after rebates for a full set of 195/50 Ziex 912's.
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Yikes, that's a lot of scrapes and dings. The lightspeeds sound cool though
What do you think is up with the strut?
What do you think is up with the strut?
