removing engine head. Any advice or tips?

[DSlab]

I am planning to pull the engine apart to check if I got a blown head gasket or something worst. This is the first time I'll be doing something like this, so most likely I'll run into some trouble. I am gonna take my sweet time to do this, so probably gonna take a few weekends.

Like to get some tips and advice from someone who had done this before on a Protege5.


Here is the procedure on the service manual for replacing head gasket:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Drain the engine coolant
3. Remove the timing belt
4. Remove the front piple
5. Remove the air cleaner
6. Remove the P/S oil Pump and bracket with oil hose still connected
7. Remove the accelerator cable
8. Disconnect the fuel hose
9. Remove in the order indicated in table.
10 Install in reverse order of removal
11. Inspect the engine oil level.
12. Inspect for engine oil, engine coolant, and fuel leakage.
13 Inspect the compression
14 Start the engine and:
1) Inspect the pulley and the drive belt for run out and contact.
2) Inspect the ignition timing
3) Inspect idle speed.


I know I should replace the timing belt while I'm at it, are there anything else that you guys recommend me doing?

 

[Nomad]

OK, first things first. do you have a decent set of tools? It sucks to keep having to run to the store for a socket or wrench.
Tools:
1. Get a decent set of metric deep and short 6 point sockets. Get a 3/8 and 1/2 drive ratchet, something like Craftsman pro series is good. Less busted knuckles and the fine teeth make it a dream. The normal C-man ratchets suck and will bust your knuckles when they slip.
2. Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches are awesome if you can afford them. regular C-man or Duralast will do but stay away from Harbor freight type quality, they need to be accurate.
3. Good new quality screwdriver, not one that is beat up and chipped/worn out.
4. Buy two sets of mechanics gloves. One for dirty work/breakdown and one for clean/buildup. You can use nitril gloves too, it's preference but the nitril always break on me and don't protect from bangs and cuts.
5. Obviously you'll need to get it up up on two jackstands for a safe/permanent working platform where you an get to top and bottom easily.
6. Torque wrench for reassembly.

Here's my prep advice:
1. Go to a self serve carwash and blast the crud off the underside of the engine bay, or soak it all down with degreaser and get as much crap off as possible. A clean engine is much nicer to work on.
2. Have a nice workbench to pay out parts on and a good clean place to have your car sit when it's all broken down.
3. Get a sharpie marker and a box of plastic sandwich baggies so that you can drop each bolt/nut from various items/systems into the bag and immediately write what the bolts/nuts go to. Do not skip that step! A few garbage bags can be used to cover the exposed head and block etc to keep dust out. Possibly a cardboard sheet if you want to sketch out a few diagrams of where bolts on a cover are located etc, you can jam bolts into the cardboard to store them in their proper locations on the diagram you drew. it came in handy with my BMW, not sure about the Mazda.
4. Make sure to label and mark all wiring harnesses and plugs with masking tape. This comes in handy when you come back to it a few weeks later.
5. Take your time, use the right tools, try not to break anything and follow the directions, label everything, be careful and clean.

It's just bolts and nuts holding parts together. Good luck

 

[Nomad]

are there anything else that you guys recommend me doing?

Oh yeah, get a complete engine seal kit, replace anything you are near enough to pop a new gasket on, can't hurt.

Replace coolant hoses, vacuum lines, thermostat, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, clean off the carbon from piston heads and clean up the cylinder head, replace spark plugs and wires, coolant, oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid flush, engine mounts that are torn... Whatever you can afford.

 

[lil_red_wagon]

get new cam seals, new timing belt, if you don't have a set of feeler gauges, get some to check if the head is true, replace the valve cover gasket and grommets, check to see if the crank seal is bad, and replace the intake manifold gasket.

 

[DSlab]

Thanks for the great advice.

I was so caught up on figuring out what needs to be done, I totally didn't thought about the tools needed to get the job done. You are right, I need a good set of tools, which I don't have. I am going to look on ebay and see if I can get some used quality tools (Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Cornwell etc). Right now I only have some China/India made stuff.

I've never used any of those ratcheting wrench before, but I saw some Gearwrench flexhead ratcheting wrench about a month ago at Sear. I remember thinking: "That would be great for those really tight spot." Now here is my question, are you suggesting getting ratcheting wrench in general or particularly Gearwrench?

 

[P-Funk!]

I didn't see 'remove the intake' from the list... Did i miss it?

With the intake off - consider replacing that rear engine mount. Perhaps do the VTCS removal/VICS screw torque/red loctite and port?

Do the UDP since the timing belt is off...

Header on the install?

adjustable timing gears and cams? I know you didn't ask for mods - but some good opportunities abound since you are in 'there...

Shave the head/bump compression?

 

[kcbhiw]

I am planning to pull the engine apart to check if I got a blown head gasket or something worst

Before doing all of this work to check for a blown head gasket, perform a compression test or leak down test. These tests will likely pinpoint any problem you have with piston rings, head gasket, valve seating, etc.

 

[nullbyte]

Thanks for the great advice.

I was so caught up on figuring out what needs to be done, I totally didn't thought about the tools needed to get the job done. You are right, I need a good set of tools, which I don't have. I am going to look on ebay and see if I can get some used quality tools (Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Cornwell etc). Right now I only have some China/India made stuff.

I've never used any of those ratcheting wrench before, but I saw some Gearwrench flexhead ratcheting wrench about a month ago at Sear. I remember thinking: "That would be great for those really tight spot." Now here is my question, are you suggesting getting ratcheting wrench in general or particularly Gearwrench?

I hardly every use those ratching wrenchs. They are expensive and aren't required as often as you would think. Save your money for a good socket ratchet and socket set. Get both a 3/8 and 1/2 set and fork out for a good breaker bar (get both 1/2 inch and 3/8 bars), your going to need it...

oh yeah....snap on and mac tools are nice but not normally worth the money unless you are a full time mechanic...craftsmen pro are good and normally have a lifetime warranty which is what matters!

 

[nullbyte]

This is true, a compression test can tell you where the gasket is blown (which cylinder is leaking) or if it's even blown. Also I would hate to tear it all apart if the head gasket was good

Before doing all of this work to check for a blown head gasket, perform a compression test or leak down test. These tests will likely pinpoint any problem you have with piston rings, head gasket, valve seating, etc.

 

[speed1016]

Man you missed a great sell at sears this weekend on tools. I got a set of gear wrenches for 29 bucks. And I also picked up a nice 260 piece tool box that ranged from 4mm to 14mm 1/4in drive to 10mm-22mm 1/2in drive for 190.00 plus tax. Im really impressed with the amount f tools in that set that I will actually use.

 

[speed1016]

oh and are you working outside? .. hehe nevermind your in socal! I was gonna tell you to get a heater

 

[DSlab]

I already found coolant in the 3rd cylinder, would a compression test or leak down test still necessary?

 

[Nomad]

coolant in cyl = no need for comp check.
Don't bother with mac/snappy. etc on ebay, many things go for rediculous prices, even used.

C-man is good. They'll come out with more sales and are sure to have some good weekend sales after christmas. A good one is a 200 piece set they have with nearly all sockets you'll need, not a bunch of filler like screwdriver bits and allen wrenches.

I use the reversible ratcheting wrenches but do come across tighter spaces and a good set of regular combo wrenches is essential in any tool cart.

If you have no tools then start with the basics:
If you get them seperate then I'd recommend
"good" (c-man pro thin profile) set of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drivers
3/8 deep and short sockets - 6 point ( don't bother with 12 point until you have complete sets of 6 pt) and add the other drive sizes if needed/wanted
You only have to worry about metric so that's nice.
Full set of c-man wrenches, can spring for full polished for ultimate niceness. A full set of extensions is needed too. Maybe one U-joint fitting.

Channel lock pliers, regular slip-joint pliers, screwdrivers (c-man pro are nicer but expensive) torque wrench is essential for the head.

 

[DSlab]

I didn't see 'remove the intake' from the list... Did i miss it?

In the service manual they don’t remove the intake and exhaust manifold for replacing the head gasket. Instead, they detach the exhaust at the front pipe. I thought that was strange too. I guess that would save some time and don’t need to replace some gaskets. I am planning to remove the intake and manifold.

I know you didn't ask for mods - but some good opportunities abound since you are in 'there...

I am interested in getting some mod done if it doesn’t require much more work. However, I am not sure which mod I would want. I know mod is all about compromises, improve one thing at the expense of something else, so I want to make sure the mod I put in there is something that I won’t regret. Unfortunately I don’t know enough about different mods to make a wise and quick decision. P-funk, perhaps you can help me out on this.

- Would removing the VTCS and porting the intake cause the car to fail smog test? I am in California, so it is something I need to consider.

- For our car, would installing under drive pulley cause problem with AC or not allowing the battery to properly charged and causing different electrical component to suffer? I am planning to install a carputer eventually (already bought the touchscreen), so I want to make sure that is not going to be a problem. Haven’t estimated the total wattage that the Carputer would need, the system would probably consist of these: 7inch touchscreen, laptop, 1 or 2 amps (depending if I want to add a subwoofer), USB audio device, and misc other small components.

- What exactly is Shave the head/bump compression?

I think ultimately if I want to improve the performance of the car, I would go the turbo route. So I don’t want to put anything in there that might need to be replaced again if that day come when I go turbo. Again, I don’t know enough at this point to know the different components needed for turbo as oppose to N/A.

Well, with all that said, the most important thing at this point is still to get my current problem fixed. I’m crossing my finger and hope that the problem is only with a head gasket and nothing more serious.

 

[DSlab]

I already bought some tools on ebay, a MAC 1/2" drive 15" Ratchet and a MAC 1/2"dr 24" breaker bar.

many things go for rediculous prices, even used.

]

You are right, some of these used Snap-on tool on Ebay are still so ridiculously expensive.

I'll go check out Sear this week and see if they have any sale going on. However, I do hear that some Craftsman ratchet are garbage that they break easily thus hurting the knuckles.

 

[nullbyte]

I already found coolant in the 3rd cylinder, would a compression test or leak down test still necessary?

Your best bet at this point is a really good visual inspection. Coolant in cylinders can be caused by blown gaskets....it can also be caused by warped heads or small cracks in head or block. Just something to look for!

 

[P-Funk!]

In the service manual they dont remove the intake and exhaust manifold for replacing the head gasket. Instead, they detach the exhaust at the front pipe. I thought that was strange too. I guess that would save some time and dont need to replace some gaskets. I am planning to remove the intake and manifold.




I am interested in getting some mod done if it doesnt require much more work. However, I am not sure which mod I would want. I know mod is all about compromises, improve one thing at the expense of something else, so I want to make sure the mod I put in there is something that I wont regret. Unfortunately I dont know enough about different mods to make a wise and quick decision. P-funk, perhaps you can help me out on this.

- Would removing the VTCS and porting the intake cause the car to fail smog test? I am in California, so it is something I need to consider.

You 'should' be fine. It is for cold start only and if you follow the procedures (how-to) it won't throw a CEL. Not visible, nor changes emmisions output. Works well with turbo application as well.

- For our car, would installing under drive pulley cause problem with AC or not allowing the battery to properly charged and causing different electrical component to suffer? I am planning to install a carputer eventually (already bought the touchscreen), so I want to make sure that is not going to be a problem. Havent estimated the total wattage that the Carputer would need, the system would probably consist of these: 7inch touchscreen, laptop, 1 or 2 amps (depending if I want to add a subwoofer), USB audio device, and misc other small components.

No one with an UDP on the forum (myself included) has had a problem that i am aware of...

- What exactly is Shave the head/bump compression?

OLd Skool rodder trick By having a machine shop mill the bottom of the head (where it meets the block) you effectively raise the compression in the cylinders (less space above the piston at Top Dead Center). You will have a machine shop inspect the head anyway, yes? Do an NDI (Non-Destructive Inspection) for small cracks. Check for warpage. BUT if you are going turbo - you don't want higher compression.

I think ultimately if I want to improve the performance of the car, I would go the turbo route. So I dont want to put anything in there that might need to be replaced again if that day come when I go turbo. Again, I dont know enough at this point to know the different components needed for turbo as oppose to N/A.

Well, with all that said, the most important thing at this point is still to get my current problem fixed. Im crossing my finger and hope that the problem is only with a head gasket and nothing more serious.

I hope it is only a gasket too! (2thumbs) Good Luck!

 

[Nomad]

I do hear that some Craftsman ratchet are garbage that they break easily thus hurting the knuckles.

yes, don't buy this one:

do buy this one if you are looking for something good enough for a lot of things and much cheaper than Snappy:

 

[sube]

Husky Tools from Home Depot are also good, lifetime warranty, and no hassles if you do need anything replaced.

Pat.

 

[blueprotegelx]

subbing for future reference. i would follow the advice given so far. i found a deal on cams and gears, as well as vtcs removed on spare intake mani. it is a hassle having to take the car "back" apart to put an aftermarket part on that you could have accomplished earlier.

but if money is the problem and you need a car, just replace with oem parts!